You mentioned that you are handling “large plywood sheets regularly”. Is this for a business or personal/hobby use?

 

My boyfriend and I are remodeling a cabin and we're building some cupboards, etc. Attached is a picture of something I've recently built - a kitchen nook.

So to answer: hobby/personal use, but pretty elaborate cabinetry projects.

 

I have no opinion on any of those saws. You seem a little overwhelmed. No problem. We all get that way sometimes. What other tools do you have at home? Do you have a circular saw? Is this your first table saw? Do you have a large shop area to work out of?

Did you consider a track saw?

I will offer some advice on breaking down plywood or sheet goods. Consider breaking down sheets of plywood or sheet goods with a circular saw. Use the table saw for finished sizing.

 

So for this project (in the picture) I did break down the big 4x8' sheet with a circular saw on a insulation foam pad with a straight edge. So far, I'm good. But in this recent project for example, the final sizing was 72x18 inches and my table saw only went to 12in. hence why I wanted the Kobalt saw, which goes up to 30in.

I have most other tools in my shop (large garage with ample space, which will long term be turned into a shop): 7in circular caw, 10in miter saw etc. I want to avoid getting a track saw because so far, a circular saw and a straight edge did the trick.

The project I need a circular saw for is a table top. I am using construction lumber, joined with biscuits to create a 4x4' square table top. But, in order for the top to laminate properly, I need to trim off the round over. And for that I need a table saw with a solid, stable blade and a decent fence that wont move and allow me to make crisp 90 degree cuts on the short ends that are to be laminated. The Ryobi saw I mentioned in the original post moved and left wonky edges - ranging from 95 to 92 degrees - which will result in a very uneven top.

 

I just viewed your video. Check the instructions on how to adjust the silver tabs to make the fence parallel to the blade (in case you need to adjust one or both). Measure from the fence to the blade at both the front and rear of the blade and don’t depend on the painted markings.

Second, the table extension should just pull out without getting stuck. Check the locking mechanism underneath the table extension to make sure it is fully releasing. You may have to fully lower the blade and carefully set the saw upside down to see what is happening under the table when you release and try to pull out the extension.

 

Without being there in person it will be difficult for us to determine what's wrong or just how the saw operates. There are several videos on You Tube that will show you:

At 3:00 in he deals with the fence not aligning parallel with the blade:

 

Just because a saw can rip a piece 30" wide doesn't mean you should necessarily try. Breaking down sheetgoods with a job site saw (small, portable saw meant to be tossed in a truck and moved from place to place) is an exercise in frustration at best, and outright dangerous at worst. It's all about relative sizes, with such a small saw top and such a large workpiece, there's an increased risk of tipping the saw over, losing control of the workpiece, or otherwise not being 100% in control of the situation. You can kinda get around some of the issues with things like outfeed tables, infeed rollers and the like, but it's kinda lipstick on a pig

If you plan to work with a lot of sheetgoods, a much better investment would be a track saw, basically a much more accurate circular saw. When working with large pieces, it's easier (and safer!) to bring the tool to the work. A circular saw with a guide works too, but tracksaws generally make for more accurate cuts. You can find tracksaws pretty close to what you're looking at for a table saw, in the $3-400 range. If you could swing it, DeWalt makes a very nice kit that retails for about $400. Decent chunk of change, I know, but that's what, 5 sheets of quality plywood, and in exchange you save yourself a massive amount of frustration. Shopfox makes a more budget oriented option, though I dunno off the top of my head how much that runs

Oh, and to be clear, I have nothing against jobsite saws. Well, I have a few things against them (those things are way too loud), but I can respect them for what they are, and if you're working with smaller pieces of solid wood the jobbers do a good job. That said though, I'm of the opinion that anything short of a sliding table saw is the wrong tool to use on full sheets of plywood

 

I just have a standard size table saw. To cut full sheets of plywood I use a circular saw with a saw guide or a 2x4 clamped to the sheet to make a straight cut. I do final cuts as needed on the table saw once the pieces are smaller and easier to handle. Just an idea.

 

Not familiar with that exact model craftsmen but if it’s a direct driver version be weary. Mine failed last year after 20 years of good service to family and replacing motor would have cost more than my new Delta 725T2 which has a much nicer fence and several nice features that I love. Plus one on using track saw for sheet goods but a good hybrid table saw like the delta or rigid can do the job also.

Craftsman table saw note, all saws I’ve seen are number 113.xxxxxx. The different numbers after the period are the ones to worry about. There are 113 saws out there that are belt driven beasts worth a lot more than you’ll pay for them on CL but there are newer ones that are direct drive contractor models not much better than your little portable one you have now. Most do have cast iron tops though. Like I said mine lasted my dad’s sparse use for many years than he gave it to me when he inherited my grandfathers larger belt driven craftsman 113. His is still running after 40+ years of service, mine is a gloried flat surface not worth repairing. Do your research and “kick the tires”.

 

If the long term goal is to turn your large garage into a full time shop, why don't you invest in a larger 'shop-type' saw? In the long run you will be happy you did, unless your long term goal is to turn wood on a lathe... ;^)

 

Wow! Thank you so much for all the help and suggestions, I definitely have a lot to consider! I think I'll try and see if I can use @woodnthings comments and tip it upside down to see if I can get my Kobalt to work and then if that doesn't work, I'll shop around for a proper shop saw.

And yes, generally I would break down my sheets with a circular saw and a guide and I definitely wouldn't put 30in. of width on there, but the 12in max capacity of the Ryobi for example was indeed very annoying. I'm talking 20in max, most pieces would be more like 16/18in.

One question though: I have seen a lot of posts on pinterest where people have used a compact jobsite table saw and built it into a workbench (for example with other features like a router table or a flip up miter saw). Is there anything in general speaking against using a job saw and building around it, besides maybe the noise?

 

One question though: I have seen a lot of posts on pinterest where people have used a compact jobsite table saw and built it into a workbench (for example with other features like a router table or a flip up miter saw). Is there anything in general speaking against using a job saw and building around it, besides maybe the noise?

Theres not anything wrong with it, its just kinda putting lipstick on a pig. Building a small saw into a larger table does solve the problem of not having enough horizontal real estate on the saw table, and does make it easier to deal with sheet goods in that regard, but it doesnt do anything to help with all the other faults of the saw. Youre still left with the noisy, underpowered motors, poor quality fence systems, occasionally wonky miter slots, garbage blade adjustment mechanisms, etc.

Generally, if youre going to go through the effort to build something as complex as a large workstation for a saw, it makes sense to start with a good saw at the base. Good doesnt mean expensive though, could just mean old. If you could get your hands on something like one of the venerable Craftsman contractor saws (float around on Craigslist and the like a lot, $1-200 depending on your area), that would make an excellent base to build a workstation around. Doesnt have to be a craftsman specifically of course, just something with a cast iron top and a belt-driven induction motor, craftsman is just the most common maker of that type that you see floating around.

Again, sounds like im just dissing jobsite saws, but again, i like them for what they are. I just dont think that the effort spent trying to improve one is effort well spent, since the core aspects of that breed of saw are flawed. Direct-drive means that if something happens to kill the motor, the entire saw is scrapped, universal motors are noisy, gutless, and inefficient, and the undersized aluminium tables are seldom flat, not durable in the least, and tiny. That class of machines are a great way to dip your toe into woodworking, but theyre a stepping stone at best and thus not worth much time spent trying to upgrade them. Cant make a silk purse out of a sows ear

 

Not all job site saws are loud. My Bosch 4000-09 isn't for whatever reason, so that may or may not be an issue. It also has the extendable fence that will allow a >24" right side rip. and a rear outfeed extension that pulls out for support at the rear. However, a proper stand is a must. When working with longer or wider material a light saw will tend to tip towards the weighted side. A built in surround would only be "worth it" if you are happy enought with all the features of your present saw. It will "most likely" be less expensive than a newer/better saw.... I donno?
I started out with a Craftsman contractor saw with a cast iron top and grid cast iron extension about 45 years ago and I used the heck out of it. When the 12" Craftsman motorized saws went on sale back in 1990's, I got two of them and bolted them together making a wide support which included the cast extensions on the right and left side. I used the heck out of that setup and still do, but I added a third saw and a router table extension. I don't need to change blades anymore, unless there is a special operation like finger joints.
That arrangement is not for everyone, of course and takes up 11 ft of shop width. But, others here have made twin saw setups with great success. You can have so many variations of the 27" deep cast iron saw that will suit your own situation, that that's is what I would look for. Contractor type saws will have a separate motor and belt drive hanging out the rear which takes up some additional shop space and definitely makes dust collection more difficult have to work around a spinning belt. Hybrid type saws have the motor inside the cabinet and are still belt driven. Finally, a full on cabinet saw is the dream saw for most woodworkers, because of the power, the large table and accuracy.
Buying a table saw is a complex decision and many factors come into play. Typically table saws last a long time so, you either end up with several if you have the space, OR trade them off as they become unwanted. I have kept all of mine, so that's my choice. My shop has evolved out of necessity from remodeling, renovations and repairs on a house I designed and built over a long time frame. It didn't start out that way, but has proven it's worth many times over. It would be a hard call to say whether it has saved me more money than I've spent buying tools and machines over the years, but I kinda don't care either way, it's a great hobby/vice to have.

EDIT:
Just for the record, there are $600.00 jobsite saws and there are $200.00 0nes, you can't compare them feature for feature. The Bosch was a $600.00 one on sale, so I picked it up for around $500.00. The biggest negative I have found with the Bosch and most jobsite saws, is the short distance from the front edge to the blade for crosscutting wider pieces, but that always an issue no matter the size of the saw. That's why folks make crosscut sleds for even the larger professional saw, for more capacity!

 

I have seen a lot of posts on pinterest where people have used a compact jobsite table saw and built it into a workbench

If you are going to do this take a look around your shop at all the work benches and other tools. I made every surface in my shop the same height, the table saw, radial arm saw, work benchs and bandsaw are all level to each other. This allows you to drag a workbench over to the saw to use as an outfeed table or to hold up the side of a sheet of plywood as you rip it down. Then when you're using the chop saw the table saw can be used as a side extension. My table saw sits on a base to raise it up but when I take it off thje base it's the right height to hold the planer so that it's level with the bench and RAS. I still need to build a custom stand for the jointer but that day will come. The point is that if everything is the same height you can reconfigure based on the job at hand using less space to do more.

 

I am about where you are in terms of experience but still not comfortable moving the big sheets through the cutting process. I haven't gotten the 'feel' of keeping the entire sheet pinned against the fence at all times.
I am a part-timer with limited space and funds so from now on, I am going to have my cut plans in hand when I buy the plywood and cut it right on the trailer before I move it. Less risk of damaging the wood moving it by myself and easier on me. Not a good plan if you have deadlines but costs nothing.

 

If you are looking to build a shop and it does sound like you are an interested DIY'er I would invest in a decent table saw. It will be the center of your shop.
If you get a crappy one you will avoid using it because it will frustrate you.
You have already tried the small tablesaw route and you are inching your way to bigger and better. I searched for used table saws for months before I eventually saved up for the Delta 36-725
Yes i wish i could have bought a bigger cabinet saw but I have limited space and the Delta is moveable. Night and day compared to my old Craftsman that frustrated me for years.
It made cabinet making so much better and now I find myself using it more than my miter saw for even the smallest cuts.

 

I have the same Craftsman 113 saw. It is a belt drive and with a few add-ons e.g. PALS (Precision Alignment System) for the blade alignment, aftermarket fence it works very well. You should be able to do all the cabinet work you want. The price I would be willing to pay for one of these would depend upon several things e.g. motor condition, fence, etc.
I don't know anything about the other saws you have.

 

A suggestion, tablesaws can be cumbersome and not always the best solution for cutting full sheet goods. A full 4x8 can be awkward, heavy, and difficult to keep tight against the fence. I would suggest making a cheap straight cut sled (or a track saw if you have the spare change) for a circular saw and rough sizing the sheet goods, doing the final dimensioning on the table saw. If you are confident you can do all your sheet good cuts with a accurate straight cut sled and a circular saw.

 

thanks again for all your feedback and help. I think I got it from here. I also did some research on that 113 craftsman saw, which is a belt drive, so I think that might be a good bet. Considering it comes with an outfeed table already, I think the 300 price tag seems pretty fair.

Thank you all so much!

 

Can't make out the info on the fence. It is aftermarket. Depending on it and the condition of the saw (motor, bearings, etc) $300 might not be a bargain.

 

One suggestion I have would be to get a Forrest planing blade and you'll get the smoothest cuts you can imagine, no more jointing the edge to a finish along with a blade from them for your mitre saw and get the same on end cuts.
I've got an old Delta that I bought about 20-25 some years ago and have used alot, very similar to the old 113 Craftsman.
The only problem I had with the motor was a capacitor, when it was going the motor reset would trip out under long use or if I pushed it to hard, replaced capacitor...problem solved, and cheap too!
My only other issue is that I cannot align the blade with the mitre slot and when I tilt the blade to 45° it toes in on the outfeed... made a mitre sled for the 45° and took care if that problem.
Just wish I could figure why the blade toes in on mitre.


Sent from my SM-T387V using Tapatalk

 

My only other issue is that I cannot align the blade with the mitre slot and when I tilt the blade to 45° it toes in on the outfeed... made a mitre sled for the 45° and took care if that problem.
Just wish I could figure why the blade toes in on mitre.


Sent from my SM-T387V using Tapatalk

Table saw alignment

Short answer is the mounts for the trunnions arent properly milled, some shims should fix the issue

 

A properly tuned table saw is an absolute must. The blade and miter slots must be absolutely parallel with the miter slots and the fence must also be parallel with the miter slots and rigid enough not to move when work is positioned against it. Not within 1/8", but within about 0.004 - 0.006" of being parallel. If not, you may end up not only ruining your work, but maybe yourself too. Take the time to get your saw cutting perfectly before trying to use it on a project.

Unless the saw fence can be positioned at least 50" from the blade, you should not even try to cut full sheets on it. My saw can handle it, but my shop size cannot, so I break up my full sheets into more manageable size outside the shop using a straight edge guide, and a circular saw, and a cutting table, doing the cutting slightly (about 1/4") oversize and then taking the pieces inside for final sizing on my table saw. The process might be a little slower overall, but it certainly is safer, and it yields better results for me. Man handling full 4' X 8' sheets of 3/4 - 1" plywood to feed into a table saw is no fun at all for me, even at work where they have a 12" 7 hp saw and side and outfeed tables that are 4' X 8' in size. They even have a fixture on that saw that helps you flip a full sheet from standing on it's edge to lying flat on the saw table, but handling full sheets is still not very safe and I prefer breaking them up another way. Then finish cutting them on a table saw.

Charley

 

Rockler has a pretty good graphic of the different blade types here:

Your Guide to Understanding Different Saw Blade Types - Rockler

It is important to choose the right saw blade for your table saw. This useful guide from Rockler will help you explore various saw blade types. Learn more!

www.rockler.com

After years of buying all different types of blades, I've pretty much settled on these Diablos:
24 tooth for ripping 2" or thicker hardwoods and some "wet" construction lumber.
40 tooth general puropose, OK for morst ripping and does OK on crosscuts, but not thin veneers.
50 tooth combination, my "go to" blade for most cuts that don't require a specialty blade. I previously use the 40 tooth, but a friend recommend the 50 tooth and I was pleased with it, so the 40 hangs on the wall near the saw.
60 tooth for crosscuts where little or no tearout is necessary, OK for almost all but the thinnest veneers.
80 tooth for crosscuts, rarely used, but it's there if I need it.

For Melamine, which chips out no matter which direction you cut it, I use a
High Alternate Top Bevel (Hi-ATB)

 

@woodnthings: That's a lot of blades to get a beginner started, and I assume a limited budget. She doesn't have three table saws, a giant workshop, etc. What would you recommend for starters?

I would recommend a decent general purpose blade and a dado stack to start. Let's see what woodnthings suggests. Note: The Kobalt KT10152 will only accept a dado stack up to 1/2 inch wide. That's another reason to replace it.

 

@woodnthings: That's a lot of blades to get a beginner started, and I assume a limited budget. She doesn't have three table saws, a giant workshop, etc. What would you recommend for starters?

I would recommend a decent general purpose blade and a dado stack to start. Let's see what woodnthings suggests. Note: The Kobalt KT10152 will only accept a dado stack up to 1/2 inch wide. That's another reason to replace it.

I have been working in shops, and my own shop my entire life. The commercial shop I worked at used Forrest Woodworker blades. In my shop, I use Forrest Woodworker II blades. Never had the need for anything else. I am not doubting that these guys need 8 different blades, I don't. I nearly always dress an edge coming off the saw anyhow. The only time I ever changed was when I was doing veneers, laminate, and solid surface I used some different blades such as TCG. The average woodworker, looking for a perfect edge, would be better off selling a few blades and buying a Clifton or Lie Nielsen #7 in my opinion.

 

You have to start small and work up.

Most start with a general purpose blade and by the time that is dull, they know which direction they will go in..

 

If it wasn't obvious, I would start with the 40 tooth at under $30.00:

DIABLO 10in. x 40-Tooth General Purpose Saw Blade for Wood D1040X - The Home Depot

Get the Diablo 10 in. x 40 Tooth Carbide Circular Saw Blade D1040A, carbide circular saw blade Perma-Shield non-stick coating protects the blade from heat, gumming and corrosion from The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

or the 50 tooth at $38.00:

DIABLO 10in. x 50-Tooth Combination Saw Blade for Wood D1050X - The Home Depot

Visit the Home Depot to buy Diablo 10 in. x 50 Tooth Combination Circular Saw Blade D1050X

www.homedepot.com

 

I have a very similar saw I'm trying to get rid of so I can get space for a cabinet saw..it has the same fence, Align-a-rip..
If you don't mind the trip I'm in Columbia SC.. I'd just about give you the saw.. It's served me well over the years..
No outfeed, but it has a 30" rip capacity..

 

I’m sure I’m giving similar advice to some of the earlier posters, but here goes. The way I see it you have two options to address the current shortcomings. Either 1.). You build some sort of larger structure around your Kobalt jobsite saw with an adequate fence system to feed the plywood accurately or 2.) you buy the craftsman contractor saw which looks like it may need a side table extension to cut some of the wider plywood but will almost certainly give you better cuts.

If you stay with this hobby for awhile you will perhaps want to someday upgrade to a cabinet saw, but the contractor saw will be more than sufficient for most jobs until then. I would guess you will outgrow the Kobalt very soon. The cost in time and materials to build a bench around the Kobalt will likely equal the cost to buy the Craftsman saw. Do yourself a favor and buy the PALS alignment kit if it doesn’t have it installed. It will pay for itself the first time you adjust the top. Contractor Saw PALS - In-Line Industries - Woodworking Products

No association with the company but I will tell you from personal experience that my first time adjusting my top on my old Jet Contractors saw took around 2 hours dinking around. After I installed the PALS it took about 30 mins. $20 well spent.

Good luck, your work looks nice regardless of the tools available.

 

The manual for that saw is available online. CRAFTSMAN 113.298032 OWNER'S MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib