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Help replace Craftsman 113 Table Saw motor

27K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  JIMMIEM  
#1 ·
I've been on the stinkin' internet for hours trying to figure out what to do about my 113.12173 Craftsman table saw motor. I am trying to replace it, but can't find a specific comparable motor. I can run the table saw, but I'm pretty stupid when it comes to fixing it! Any thoughts on an appropriate replacement? Will most any 113 1hp belt drive motor work? I've found several used ones online. Or is there another option I should consider?

Many MANY thanks! I sick of researching this!
 

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#2 ·
It doesn't need to be a "Craftsman" ....

Motors are motors, as long as the dimensions are the same. What really matters is the frame type, It should be a 56. This means the mounting holes on the base plate will line up with those on the saw's mount. Pretty much other than RPMs and horsepower is all you need to match. Even RPMs can be managed with changing pulley sizes.

I used a 2 HP Baldor on my old Craftsman with no issues. Make certain your switch is rated for the amperage draw of the new motor. Minimum HP for a 10" table saw is 1 HP, more is better, but not needed unless you are ripping thick hardwood hours at a time.
 
#10 ·
The motor was working one minute. I turned off the table saw and when I went to turn it back on it was just humming. I tried several things, but I am not really interested in trying to repair it. I have looked at several posts and they all say that they could be different things wrong with it. I just need a functioning table saw asap.
 
#8 ·
If you have your heart set on a new motor, then by all means that is the very best direction to go. It might cost more but you will have the comfort of knowing that it is new and should last for decades with reasonable DIY/homeowner use.

That said, don't rule out the option of a used saw with a good motor rather than just searching for a motor.

Either way, good luck in your search.
 
#14 ·
I bought one of the old King-Seeley saws for $25 with a bad motor. $60 later a motor shop replaced the bearings and it was as good as new. Call around first to see what it would cost to rebuild it, you may be surprised.
 
#17 ·
The motor could still operate. I've rebuilt motors from fractional HP to 500 form wound for 22 years, retired now. While looking for you choice of motor go by hp, rpm, SF (service factor) and rise which is 40 degree C. I also have same model saw and the motor is sleeve bearing equipped. Your description of how it operates tells me to take the endbell off opposite shaft end and you'll find a stationary switch. I have jewelers files and if get a one side flat with other round and locate the contact point and file it to clean the corrosion off. The the other thing is to check the start capacitors micro farads with a ohm meter its ratings are printed on its side. Plus or minus 5% of rating is good. If there is a diode between the terminals you must cut one side loose. If its hasn't a diode and you've tried starting the capacitor will be holding a charge of electricity and two discharge pull wire off one side and cross terminals with insulated screwdriver. I have changed a 2 pole (3600rpm) 1hp motor on my cousins craftsman table saw to a 1.5hp @ 1800rpm you'll have to change you pulleys but his had more torque and the was ripping 10 & 12ft 2x4's out of sawmill ruffle cut pine for his board & batten garage. To acquire you proper speed there is on search engine of your choice a pulley speed adjuster app fir you driver and driven pulleys for size diameter vs speed.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Welcome MikeJ, a new member!
That's all well and fine advice, BUT it will probably do no good to the original poster since the question is 3 years plus 6 months past.
As a new member, look at the date on the question to determine whether to reply or not. Some questions are timeless and information is always relevant, but others are time sensitive like this one who needed help "ASAP".
In my experience, most woodworkers are not interested in tearing down a motor to examine electrical issues, but maybe replacing a capacitor is about the extent.
The older Craftsman radial arm saw motors and some 12" direct drive motors are factory "sealed" and even motor repair shops will avoid cracking them apart to replace bearings. I know this from my own experience and from that of other here who were also turned away. In my case, I split the cases apart myself and replaced the bearings: