The motor could still operate. I've rebuilt motors from fractional HP to 500 form wound for 22 years, retired now. While looking for you choice of motor go by hp, rpm, SF (service factor) and rise which is 40 degree C. I also have same model saw and the motor is sleeve bearing equipped. Your description of how it operates tells me to take the endbell off opposite shaft end and you'll find a stationary switch. I have jewelers files and if get a one side flat with other round and locate the contact point and file it to clean the corrosion off. The the other thing is to check the start capacitors micro farads with a ohm meter its ratings are printed on its side. Plus or minus 5% of rating is good. If there is a diode between the terminals you must cut one side loose. If its hasn't a diode and you've tried starting the capacitor will be holding a charge of electricity and two discharge pull wire off one side and cross terminals with insulated screwdriver. I have changed a 2 pole (3600rpm) 1hp motor on my cousins craftsman table saw to a 1.5hp @ 1800rpm you'll have to change you pulleys but his had more torque and the was ripping 10 & 12ft 2x4's out of sawmill ruffle cut pine for his board & batten garage. To acquire you proper speed there is on search engine of your choice a pulley speed adjuster app fir you driver and driven pulleys for size diameter vs speed.
Welcome MikeJ, a new member!
That's all well and fine advice, BUT it will probably do no good to the original poster since the question is 3 years plus 6 months past.
As a new member, look at the date on the question to determine whether to reply or not. Some questions are timeless and information is always relevant, but others are time sensitive like this one who needed help "ASAP".
In my experience, most woodworkers are not interested in tearing down a motor to examine electrical issues, but maybe replacing a capacitor is about the extent.
The older Craftsman radial arm saw motors and some 12" direct drive motors are factory "sealed" and even motor repair shops will avoid cracking them apart to replace bearings. I know this from my own experience and from that of other here who were also turned away. In my case, I split the cases apart myself and replaced the bearings:
Mine started making a funny clicking noise so I thought, based on a message from dodgeboy77 aka Bill, I would split 'er open and see what's what :eek:. The motors are expoxied together at the Emerson factory and are not supposed to be rebuilt, so I knew it would be a challenge. Bill also...
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