Welcome to the forum, Conner! Photos and/or sketches will help a lot in getting better responses.

David

 

Hello!
I’m hanging a large floating shelf over my TV using threaded rod for my brackets.

I ordered some 1/2” diameter rod the other day assuming that I’d be working with 1” thick material but the best I could find at the hardware store was an edge glued oak panel only 3/4” thick. (I don’t have the means or the patience to make my own at the moment).
Now considering I have a 6ft x 15” board hung on 5 rods, will a 1/2” hole be too big for the 3/4” thickness?

I won’t put more than 70 pounds over the whole shelf so I’m optimistic that it would be sturdy enough but I wanted to run it by some pros first.

Thanks!

That would be plenty strong in my experience. If you have any concerns, use rerod rather than threaded rod. It's a bugger to bend, even with heat!

 

Now considering I have a 6ft x 15” board hung on 5 rods, will a 1/2” hole be too big for the 3/4” thickness?

I too would be concerned, that only leaves a 1/8 wall thickness in your shelf. Obviously the rod is not the weak point. I imagine the shelf itself, will not fall to the floor (maybe) but it might well develop a crack where the holes are drilled.

 

Edge glued oak, is the board oak or oak edging over pine? Either way, I think the steel is sufficient I would have a concern with the wood 3/4" -1/2" leaves you with 1/8" of wood on either side. I don't think your choice in the size board will the result you're after.

 

Hello!
I’m hanging a large floating shelf over my TV using threaded rod for my brackets.

I ordered some 1/2” diameter rod the other day assuming that I’d be working with 1” thick material but the best I could find at the hardware store was an edge glued oak panel only 3/4” thick. (I don’t have the means or the patience to make my own at the moment).
Now considering I have a 6ft x 15” board hung on 5 rods, will a 1/2” hole be too big for the 3/4” thickness?

I won’t put more than 70 pounds over the whole shelf so I’m optimistic that it would be sturdy enough but I wanted to run it by some pros first.

Thanks!

I would be reluctant to do what you are attempting. First, the hole needs to be a full 1/2", maybe a little heave, to accept the 1/2" rod. That leaves at best 1/8" on each side, and that is assuming the boards are perfectly flat with zero cupping, and assuming you bore perfectly parallel to the edge, and your bit is perfectly centered on the edge. you are asking a lot of yourself.

 

assuming you bore perfectly parallel to the edge, and your bit is perfectly centered on the edge. you are asking a lot of yourself.

That's also a good point.

 

Exactly, a 3/4" thick board is NOT thick enough. Now, you could use 3/8" rerod which is what I would do only if there is no other thickness available than 3/4".
You can get 4/4 thick stock rough sawn or 5/4 stock and get it planed down, but you'll have to do some legwork and make phone calls, unless you know of a rough sawn source.