It sounds like your cabinet is not exactly square. The drawer goes in part way and stops because it’s out of square and tightens up mid point. You have a couple of options.
Probably easier to adjust the drawer than to adjust the cabinet if you stay with the slides you’ve purchased.
Another option will be to toss the metal drawer slides and install wood drawer guides.
I know that’s not your first choice but your first choice isn’t working.
You can install a sliding stop on the back of your drawer so the drawer can’t be pulled out all the way by mistake. The wood slides are much more forgiving and don’t have the tight tolerance of the metal slide.

 

It sounds like your cabinet is not exactly square.

I am guessing that either or both that your drawer is not square or that the opening is not square.

I don't know about absolutely perfect, but the box, cabinet and drawer opening are all square.

The drawer goes in part way and stops because it’s out of square and tightens up mid point.

It doesn't tighten, like gradually, it stops dead, as in hitting a brick (rather, plastic) wall.

Is it just the photo or are the heads of the Phillips screws not seated all the way?

My guess would also be you are hitting a screw.

I bought #8 3/4" screws to replace the 1/2" screws that came with the slides. They looked the same, but the cone behind the head does appear to be a bit proud. I removed the 3/4" screws and used the ones that came with them, but the drawer still won't go in.

The problem I'm having now seems to be a personal physical limitation. I can't hold the sides of the drawer and lean to see either slide to guide the drawer part of the slides into the cabinet side of the slides. It's a real struggle rassling with it and I got this breathing problem. The thought occurs to me that as my lung disease progresses, I may not be able to do any maintenance or major cleaning involving the removal and replacement of those drawers, even if I managed to get them working now. I've read a few stories about how these big box store slides tend to break or malfunction in too short a period of time.

You have a couple of options.
[1.]Probably easier to adjust the drawer than to adjust the cabinet if you stay with the slides you’ve purchased.
[2.]Another option will be to toss the metal drawer slides and install wood drawer guides.

Yeah, I think either a different kind of slide. or wood guides. I'll do some more research and see what I can find. The wood drawer guides you described may not be able to accommodate a stop (well, maybe a pair of them on the sides) because the vanity carcass is mostly one big open hole for 3 inset drawers (see the pic for a reminder).

Thanks for the help and suggestions.

 

I am guessing that either or both that your drawer is not square or that the opening is not square.


George

 

Is it just the photo or are the heads of the Phillips screws not seated all the way? They must be flush with the slide or they will interfere with the mating slide half when trying to close. Been there and done that myself?

 

My guess would also be you are hitting a screw. Pull the drawer all the way open and when you close it, don't let the cabinet section of the slide go in, just let the drawer member in to see if that half is working.



Here's it open

When you are closing

 

Who is the drawer slide manufacturer? Also, some manufacturer's drawer slides are more forgiving than others when it comes to working with tight clearances between the sides of the drawer and the cabinet. I have found the KV8400 series to be very forgiving. Also, some manufacturers will produce several products at different price points. The difference in quality is definitely noticeable. I'm assuming that since you bought these at Lowes that they aren't high end. Double check the slide's drawer side to cabinet side clearance requirement.
Check to make sure you haven't damaged the slides and try lubricating them as it doesn't take much tightness for them not to slide in.

 

Who is the drawer slide manufacturer?

Richelieu - full extension, soft close 16"

Also, some manufacturer's drawer slides are more forgiving than others when it comes to working with tight clearances between the sides of the drawer and the cabinet. I have found the KV8400 series to be very forgiving.

They claim the same clearance that Richelieu does, + 1/32", - 0", which I take to mean zero play if the box is too wide, minute clearance if it's too narrow.

I'm assuming that since you bought these at Lowes that they aren't high end.

I thought I was buying a better quality product, even though it was from Lowe's.

Check to make sure you haven't damaged the slides...

I did damage the ball bearing carrier on one slide, as I mentioned in my first post. I did repair it, but switched it out for a new one anyway.

I just ordered roller guides from Rockler. I don't have the patience or stamina to continue struggling with these. I will return the unused Richeleiu slides to Lowe's the next time I go to Reno.

 

An eighth of an inch is a lot when talking drawer slides. The drawer box has a range where it needs to be from 1" to 1 1/16" smaller than the opening. If you have built your drawer box 1/8" too big all you have to do is rabbet the side of the drawer box enough where the drawer slide recesses inside. Option two would be to cut the drawer opening 1/8" wider.

 

:grin:You must have missed the post where I talked about doing this and showed a photo that illustrates it. >

 

Jim's note above about the KV8400 series reminded me of an alignment issue with the 8450's. They have a little round piece of plastic that protrudes ahead off the soft close mechanism. If the slide cabinet members are not parallel to each other and the backs close in just a little bit, those protrusions will stop the drawer from closing. It's like you hit something solid (don't ask me how I know). As you are using a different slide, remove the drawer from the cabinet and check both the cabinet and drawer components of those slide looking for something that sticks out. Your slide may have a similar component. If so, the alignment will need to be adjusted. As Steve mentions above, the tolerance is 1" to 1 1/16" which is over the entire length of those slides, being parallel to each other. Also, make sure they are in vertical alignment with each other too. Good luck.

 

Other Foot,
I used soft close slides on one job a couple of years ago. When I tested them, I had the same problem, but my cabinets were dead square, etc. It turned out that after I had pulled the slides apart for mounting, there was a small catch or something that had to be released in order for the slides to go back together. I am pretty sure that is what must be happening here. It took me a few minutes of bewilderment to figure it out because it was not obvious, and there was no indication in the directions about it. Look at your soft close mechanism and move that rectangular piece to the rear. That tiny curved slot in it might have the release button. This has to be done before you insert the drawer into the cabinet slide.



I accidentally double hit the submit button and the edit function will not allow me to remove the second submission. Sorry.

 

Other Foot,
I used soft close slides on one job a couple of years ago. When I tested them, I had the same problem, but my cabinets were dead square, etc. It turned out that after I had pulled the slides apart for mounting, there was a small catch or something that had to be released in order for the slides to go back together. I am pretty sure that is what must be happening here. It took me a few minutes of bewilderment to figure it out because it was not obvious, and there was no indication in the directions about it. Look at your soft close mechanism and move that rectangular piece to the rear. That tiny curved slot in it might have the release button. This has to be done before you insert the drawer into the cabinewt slide.