[Fried Chicken]

Wait so the 24T glue line rip blade allowed you to skip the jointer? Is that why it's called that "glue line rip"? And what makes it able to do so? I was under the impression this wasn't possible: you always needed to follow up with a jointer, or use a flush trim bit on a router or something.

What does a negative hook blade do? What was that difference?

I'm genuinely not knowledgeable on this; despite the snark in my initial post, I am fishing for information and ideas. Also wondering if the really premium blades are worth it.

 

[Rebelwork]

I use this on a lot of my work and don’t change to other blades much..

Amana Tool RB1020 Carbide Tipped Euro Rip With Cooling Slots 10 Inch D x 20T FT, 18 Deg, 5/8 Bore, Circular Saw Blade

Get a fast and smooth cut with Amana Tool's RB1020 Carbide Tipped Euro Rip blade. Designed for hardwood and softwood, with cooling slots for safer use.

www.google.com

 

[woodnthings]

Wait so the 24T glue line rip blade allowed you to skip the jointer? Is that why it's called that "glue line rip"? And what makes it able to do so? I was under the impression this wasn't possible: you always needed to follow up with a jointer, or use a flush trim bit on a router or something.

Any sharp, clean cutting blade in your table saw when used with a straight line rip jig will make a cut good enough to glue up:
See post no. 4 here:

Straight Line Rip Jig

I've recently aquired several BF of white oak, that has been face planed, but not straight lined. I found this link for a simple jig, http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497 Just wondering if anyone has any advice on a better one, or if anyone has used something similar and had...

www.woodworkingtalk.com

Most 6" jointers can straighten a edge on a 4 ft board OK, but longer than that, not so much without supports.
Most woodworker nubies think a jointer is a "one and done" machine, NOPE!
It requires sighting the edge to tell where to remove the wood that forms the curve, typically on either end.
Then joint in from either end, sighting as you go, until the edge looks straight.
Then it's ready for a final full length pass over the cutter.
The straight line rip jig eliminates all that fussin' and gives a straight edge in a single pass, "one and done".
Here's a stack of 1" hardwood I straight lined in about 10 minutes:

 

[Rebelwork]

Glue line rip blade.

Amana Tool 610301 Carbide Tipped Glue Line Ripping 10 inch D x 30T TCG, 22 Deg, 5/8 Bore, Circular Saw Blade

Get an extra smooth cut finish with Amana Tool's 610301 Carbide Tipped Glue Line Ripping blade. No sanding or jointing needed. Perfect for table saws.

www.google.com

 

[Jim Frye]

Wait so the 24T glue line rip blade allowed you to skip the jointer? Is that why it's called that "glue line rip"? And what makes it able to do so? I was under the impression this wasn't possible: you always needed to follow up with a jointer, or use a flush trim bit on a router or something.

What does a negative hook blade do? What was that difference?

I'm genuinely not knowledgeable on this; despite the snark in my initial post, I am fishing for information and ideas. Also wondering if the really premium blades are worth it.

Yes, the 24T blade tooth grind combined with the accuracy of the BT3000 fence really does produce a proper edge for gluing. The photo below shows a 1/64" thick, 3/4" wide strip of red oak ripped with the aforementioned 24T glue rip blade some 25 years ago on my BT3000. It was originally 6' long.

The negative hook grind for a miter saw reduces chip out because of the way the teeth contact the workpiece in a miter saw.

Blade life is dependent on use. Are you going to be cutting all day every day (if so, the BT3000 is NOT the proper saw for that)? Are you a hobbyist who will be cutting a few hours at a time each week (if so, the BT3000 is the perfect tool)?

 

[Rebelwork]

Many sites offer information for blades and their purpose.

Saw Blades - Industrial Carbide Tipped Blades from Amana Tool - Products

Industrial Quality Router Bits, CNC Router Bits, Saw Blades, Shaper Cutters, Boring Bits & Planer and Jointer Knives by Amana Tool

www.google.com

You need to decide for yourself how much woodworking you will do. Light, medium, heavy. This will determine saw blade worth too you..

 

[woodnthings]

What blade you use also depends on the material you are cutting. how thick it is, what it's made out of and is there a "veneer" on top surface other than the internal material, like Melamine.
There ARE probably "20 different types" of blades if you include the above variations.
Go to a large manufacturer's site and check them out! CMT, Ridge Carbide, Infinity, Freud, etc.
If you are just making furniture from Walnut or Cherry for instance, then the blade you use will be determined by the thickness, the grain direction and the surface finish you need.
Most table saws do not come equipped with the best blade a home shop should be using.
The first thing that needs to be done is replace the factory blade with a medium price "good bang for the buck" 40 tooth saw blade, like a Ridge Carbide or CMT.

I've heard even the Saw Stop factory blade was not the best quality, but I don't recall the source of that:

I've had good luck with the thin kerf Diablos blades on my table saws and radial arm saws.
I am an "occasional user" and not running hardwood full time, or even close.
For very thick stock I use the bandsaw, not the table saw.
For veneer plywood, I will change out the blade to a 60 tooth or even an 80 tooth on the table saw.
The latest table saw I bought came with this blade installed. It's a 12" with 48 teeth, apparently very rare:

 

[jgrickett51]

I bought a used table saw (Craftsman Ryobi BT3000 - the best thing ever made wow), and for the first time in my life I've encountered a dull blade.

Looking now for a "10-inch circular saw blade"... between the different manufacturers, and different types of blades, there are hundreds if not thousands of choices out there.

I have never swapped out a blade for a specific cut, didn't matter the material or its end use case. I now put a "miter" blade on my table saw, b/c that's the only 10" blade I had laying around.

I'm also in the market for a new blade, and the one that caught my eye is this Klingspor:

Klingspor's Rip & Crosscut Combination Blade, 10"x 50 Teeth

Value-priced, industrial-quality circular saw blades for cabinet shops, woodworkers and hobbyists. Manufactured in Germany, these blades are laser cut from virgin steel, flattened, ground, tensioned and tipped with large, European-style carbide tips.

www.woodworkingshop.com

Based on pretty much nothing at all other than it's made in Germany, and there's a single review online that suggests it's good:

Other blades I've considered: Freud Industrial and CMT.
On my last table saw I had a think-kerf blade.

It worked fine for my needs... I don't see any reason not to get one?
Klingspor again has an option:

Klingspor Thin Kerf Combination 10X50T Blade

Thin kerf blades have become extremely popular these days. They are more efficient, produce less waste and heat, and help underpowered saws run more smoothly.

www.woodworkingshop.com

Finally, I've heard carbide blades can be sharpened, and a quick internet search yielded this service:

The Grindersmen Saw and Tool Co. – Specializing in Carbide Saw and Tool Sharpening

thegrindersmen.com

Does anyone have any specific recommendations/experience in that regard?

I've been buying from Klingspor's for several years now. I haven't tried their circular saw blades, but they seem to stick to selling good products, and my impression is that they're very careful about what they put their name on.
Carbide blades can be sharpened. Two decades ago, it was cheap enough to be worth sharpening even lower priced blades like the better Freud ones at least once. Now? I haven't looked for that specific service, but labor costs have skyrocketed on tool repairs in general. A Forrest Woodworker, at close to $200, is probably well worth sharpening, and they're reputed to withstand at least two sharpenings. Same for the top-line Amana blades.
How often you need to sharpen depends a lot on what you're cutting. Wally Kunkel, in his Master the Radial Arm Saw book, said he'd been using the same Woodworker II for all his cutting for a couple of decades without ever taking it off the saw, but I'll bet he didn't cut a lot of MDF or South American hardwoods with high silica content, like Ipe with it. Anything with glue in it, even plywood, will wear a blade faster than cutting most hardwoods and softwoods used in cabinetry.

 

[Fried Chicken]

Any sharp, clean cutting blade in your table saw when used with a straight line rip jig will make a cut good enough to glue up:
See post no. 4 here:

Straight Line Rip Jig

I've recently aquired several BF of white oak, that has been face planed, but not straight lined. I found this link for a simple jig, http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497 Just wondering if anyone has any advice on a better one, or if anyone has used something similar and had...

www.woodworkingtalk.com

Most 6" jointers can straighten a edge on a 4 ft board OK, but longer than that, not so much without supports.
Most woodworker nubies think a jointer is a "one and done" machine, NOPE!
It requires sighting the edge to tell where to remove the wood that forms the curve, typically on either end.
Then joint in from either end, sighting as you go, until the edge looks straight.
Then it's ready for a final full length pass over the cutter.
The straight line rip jig eliminates all that fussin' and gives a straight edge in a single pass, "one and done".
Here's a stack of 1" hardwood I straight lined in about 10 minutes:
View attachment 471917

Are those 2x4's reliable for the straight line? I assume the MDF runs against the fence, not the 2x4's?

 

[Rebelwork]

What and how much you cut of anything will determine how often you will sharpen. In all honesty from what I’ve seen on some forums is many don’t know who to send the blades to to be sharpened so they go with cheaper blades and just put aside..

 

[Fried Chicken]

I've been buying from Klingspor's for several years now. I haven't tried their circular saw blades, but they seem to stick to selling good products, and my impression is that they're very careful about what they put their name on.

This has been my experience with Klingspor as a whole as well. I feel quite confident ordering anything from their catalog that it won't be .

 

[Rebelwork]

Klingspor making their own saw blades?

 

[woodnthings]

I seriously doubt Kingspor has tooled up to make their own blades.
It takes a lot of technology and sophisticated sharpening machinery to make a good saw blade.
Heat treating, tempering and steel stamping are all expensive.
I think they most likely teamed up with a blade manufacturing company and put their name on the plate.
I could be wrong, but a phone call would give the answer....

 

[Rebelwork]

Them offering sawblades is a new thing. They’re known for Abrasives..

That being said Klingspor like any other company has to be open minded about more options from their company..

I need to check in with VSM/Vitex and see what they are selling now..

 

[woodnthings]

I'm also in the market for a new blade, and the one that caught my eye is this Klingspor:

Klingspor's Rip & Crosscut Combination Blade, 10"x 50 Teeth

Value-priced, industrial-quality circular saw blades for cabinet shops, woodworkers and hobbyists. Manufactured in Germany, these blades are laser cut from virgin steel, flattened, ground, tensioned and tipped with large, European-style carbide tips.

www.woodworkingshop.com

1-800-228-0000 - CS
According to their customer service rep, they are made in Germany (it says right in the title) with German quality steel and carbide, so I would expect some pretty high quality. They were not permitted to divulge the manufacturer. Their sand paper is also made in Germany and shipped here in bulk, then broken down here into user size pieces. Klingspor is a German company according to the CS rep.

 

[jgrickett51]

Klingspor making their own saw blades?

I doubt it, but whoever they've found to do that seems to know what they're doing. They started out making good industrial-quality abrasives, and I think that's still their primary focus, but they've also opened a small chain of woodworker's shops, all in North Carolina, which used to the heart of the USA's furniture industry before Ashley and the other big furniture chains moved all the manufacturing to China. I've ordered a lot of sanding abrasives and a few tools over the years from them and been quite satisfied.

 

[kwoodhands]

I use three basic table saw blades:
24 tooth for ripping
40 or 50 tooth general purpose/combination for 90% of my cuts
60 tooth for cross cutting or 80 tooth for thin veneers.

I also use a 24 tpi Amana full kerf blase for ripping 5/4 and thicker. I use a Freud `regular kerf blade that saws clean as a jointed edge. This blade is used for 3/4 and thinner. I use 50 tpi for general work. I use a scoring blade for veneers followed by the 50 tpi .

 

[jgrickett51]

For the longest time I used a table saw where the blade just stuck out of the table.... nothing else.

I still think it was somewhat "safe"; it lacked soft start or anything else. When that thing was on, your attention was nowhere else. Also a ryobi incidentally (but not the BT3000).

Regardless, unless I change the riving knife, I think I'm stuck with the standard blade. Besides that, is there any reason not to use a thin-kerf blade?

There are a couple of reasons not to, starting with the fact that they don't last quite as long as a standard blade. There's less metal or carbide there to absorb the impact of hitting the wood. It sounds as if you've already found one of the others: if you use a riving knife or have installed a splitter like one of the MicroJig add-ons, you'll need to swap that to a thin-kerf splitter to match the blade or your saw kerf will drag or stick on the full-width one. I suspect the thinner blade tends to flex a bit more and perhaps vibrate a bit more. I usually have a stabilizer on there, and have never noticed any real issues. The only thing I have noticed, and I've seen it with full-kerf blades as well, is that when trying to slice just a sliver off the end of a workpiece the blade can deflect a bit when it's not supported equally on both sides by the kerf. All that said, I use a thin-kerf blade at least 90 percent of the time, and nearly always when ripping. The lessened load on the motor is noticeably, and I'm too cheap; it pains my soul to see nice lumber turn into sawdust. If I had Jeff Bezos' money to buy a giant shop with a monster 10-hp table saw, and an unlimited budget for lumber, maybe I wouldn't care.
Generally speaking, I use my old belt-drive 10" Craftsman the way you describe, with the rather flimsy guard that came with it off. I use a MicroJig splitter in conjunction with a featherboard, I set the blade at the correct height for the material; just high enough for the gullets between the teeth to clear, and I watch where my fingers are in relation to the blade. I started with a radial arm saw, so that's pretty much second nature.

 

[ozyborn]

I am spoiled. Over the years I have collected several Forrest blades at auction, had them resharpened. They are my go to blade. Woodworker II 40 tooth and a thin kerf 60 tooth. Toss the 30 or so carbide Craftsman saw blades from all over. 30 tooth to 100 tooth. Those are for other projects or suspect wood.

 

[Rebelwork]

You will have an assortment between table saw and miter saw..