Sarcasm won't make your posts better either
Here's the illustration from the link
https://mitersawhub.com/miter-cut-vs-bevel-cut/
Image credit here:
http://www.designsponge.com/2011/04/diy-101-building-your-toolbox-saws-part-ii.html
Now, if you look up the individual definitions of "miter" and "bevel" here's what you will find:
Bevel
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bevel
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/bevel
Miter:
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=miter
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miter_joint
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/miter
Both terms can be either a verb or a noun above.
The people who write dictionaries are not always woodworkers, so they may not have a total grasp of the word as used in woodworking, ... just sayin'
In the woodworking world where there are both table saws and mitersaws, the confusion begins.
Take the mitesaw for instance. You can lay the piece flat on the table and make a miter, the most common application. OR you can stand it up against the fence and index the blade at an angle and make a bevel. However, the vertical capacity of the saw will determine the length of the bevel ... saw blade diameter being the biggest factor. On a compound miter saw, you can also lay the board flat on the table and set the blade at an angle on the arm and make a crosscut at any angle creating a "compound" cut or at 90m degrees, just an ordinary bevel.
On the table saw some of same limitations apply, however to make a miter the piece is typically flat on the table and the miter gauge is indexed at the desired angle with the blade being vertical at 90 degrees. Similarly, the piece can be held vertically against the fence to create a bevel but only to the height capacity of the blade diameter. Typically, to make a bevel on the tablesaw, the blade is set over at an angle using the tilt control under the table. Now you can make a bevel of unlimited length using the rip fence.
Based on the illustration above, a bevel can be made across the width or down the length or at any angle crossing the width. A chamfer is a bevel that is stooped short of the full thickness.
Because of the depth of cut limitations of the blade diameter on both saws, bevels are typically made by tilting the blade on the table saw.
The sliding compound miter saw has a greater cross cut capacity, so it's more versatile, but is still limited. You would not use a SCMS to make bevels for cabinetry where the sides are 24" to 32" in dimension when the tablesaw is the tool for that operation.
However, for mitering and compound bevels on long lengths like cove moldings, you can't beat a SCMS on a stand with built in work support. The tablesaw is not the ideal machine for those operations.
There's a reason that well equipped shops have all 3 machines, A SCMS, a RAS and a table saw. Most shops start out with just a tablesaw, then add either a RAS or a miter saw when they realize that long lengths are not easy to control on a short miter gauge face. Then they add an extension to the face which greatly improves accuracy. My shop has a RAS, a tablesaw, a miter saw and SCMS. I have found that a simple compound miter saw, not a slider, is best for decking or framing where the boards are 5 1/2" or less. It's light enough to carry around and set up a support on horses or a work table. The sliders are almost 2X as heavy and not so portable.
"If you didn't find this useful, you should at least have found it interesting" ,a slight variation from Red Green's closing line"........
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy". :vs_cool:
The reason for the thread is that some folks use the terms interchangeably, but they are not the same.