I will be making kitchen cabinets for my house from prefinished maple plywood that I got a good deal on. This means breaking down 4x8 sheets. I don't have enough room to manuever a sheet on my table saw. I would like to use a track saw to do this. I don't break down sheets often, so I don't want to buy a high-end system.

The WEN brand track saw is the least expensive system I know of:

I often use a saw guide and circular saw to break down 4 X 8 sheets.
You can make a saw guide or use any straight edged material or metal rail, I done both.
You can also buy a long straight lever activated clamp:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BORA-4-Piece-Ruled-WTX-Deluxe-Set/5001088269

circular saw guide at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

A track saw will not take the place of a table saw for cabinet making in my opinion.
It's much easier and faster to move the fence to a setting and make one cut or many cuts at that setting than measuring in from each and to set your track each time.
A track saw will get more use on a job site because table saws with larger tables are too heavy to transport.
Some job site table saws do have pull out extension rails for the fence, however.

 

I use a rack like this to support the sheets and made a guide you can see by following the link at bottom of page, no big outlet of cash for either:

rack

 

If all you are going to be doing is breaking down the sheets into rough sizes to finish on your table saw, then all you need is a straightedge to go with your circular saw. A 2 by 4 will do the job just fine.

What's the best track saw? Simple. Festool, hands down. No other can compare in cut quality (splinter guards on both sides of the cut for example), and now with the new 1.8mm kerf blades it's gotten even better. I could go on and on.

There are other very good quality saws out there, but none as good as Festool.

Obviously if you're choosing a track saw for yourself, budget is a factor. You'll have to decide which features you're willing to give up when shopping for a budget-price saw.

I decided to jump into track saw life head-first a couple of years ago. I have the Festool TSC 55 K, Festool parallel guides, Woodpeck parallel guides (not redundant—they complement each other), and the Festool FS-WA miter attachment. With that setup, I can do any cut I need.

In fact, I built this vanity last year using only the track saw, no cuts were made on my table saw. Even the narrow frame pieces were done with the track saw. I got so tired of hearing people say track saws are only good for breaking down sheet goods that I wanted to show them there's lots more it can do.

 

You can easily break down sheets to move to the table saw.You have a certain amount of finished ends, wall ends, etc.

 

If you’re just breaking down, all you need is a circ saw and a straight edge. With that in mind, you have to consider what kind of table saw you have and how accurate is it?

Rich is pretty much spot on.

If you want to up the game a notch and have the funds, I would consider an upper tier brand. If you go that route, you need a good dust extractor (not a shop vac). Personally, I also have a Festool, the dust collection is nothing short of amazing. Other brands I would consider are Festool, Makita and DeWalt. Plenty of reviews out there. The blades are also important. FYI I replaced the FT blade with a Freud, and it looks like it’s got 1/3 the life, but I already knew that 🤨

If I were building a kitchen now, I would invest in parallel guides and do it all with a tracksaw!

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

Track systems for existing circular saws run about $200-300. The Wen track saw with their tracks runs about the same price as just the tracks from Kreg or True-Trac. Does this mean the Wen has cheaply built tracks and won't be as precise as Kreg or True-Trac with my existing saw?

My table saw is an early-80s Craftsman shaft drive. I built a large cabinet around it with outfeed tables, etc and a delta T-square fence. It does a pretty good job, but it's on borrowed time until the flex shaft breaks (no longer available).

I can do one of two things:
1) keep the table saw and buy a very good track saw system so I can make all the final cuts on the track saw, without needing to use the table saw.
2) upgrade the table saw and buy a low-cost guide for the circular saw, using the circ saw to break the sheets down and final cuts on the new good table saw.

If I buy a new table saw, it will probably be a Sawstop PCS because I want my kids to use it for their wood projects.

Sawstop PCS 1.75hp = $3K

Good track saw system = $1K

The decision is hard.

Steve

 

I was looking into the Wen Track Saw recently and watched a bunch of reviews...most liked it for 90 degree cuts but more than 1 complained about flex on angled cuts. I also remember complaints about dust collection and the anti-kickback components being a bit cumbersome. I remember a complaint also by one the suggested it was underpowered. Most thought it was well worth the money though . For my purposes, by circular saw and home made track still are employed along with my table saw.

 

I looked long and hard at the MFT and opted to go with the STM 1800. That's a MFT style (20mm x 96mm) top I cut with the Shaper Origin.

There were too many reasons for the choice to list here, but in hindsight I did the right thing for how I work. Besides a MFT style top with more surface area, there are extension arms that aided me tremendously when I was finishing up the front entry door I posted earlier.

I have side panels that I can attach with Domino connectors to fit it out to a full 4 x 8 top.

 

I have a good cabinet saw with substantial table extensions and outfeed rollers. I prefer to break down plywood with a circular saw. I use a simple plywood saw guide which is arguably as accurate as a track saw, and costs about $2 to make. I usually cut my panels 1/8" over then run them through my cabinet saw to final dimension. Could probably get away with using it right off the circular saw. This is a pic similar to what I use.

 

I have a good cabinet saw with substantial table extensions and outfeed rollers. I prefer to break down plywood with a circular saw. I use a simple plywood saw guide which is arguably as accurate as a track saw, and costs about $2 to make. I usually cut my panels 1/8" over then run them through my cabinet saw to final dimension. Could probably get away with using it right off the circular saw. This is a pic similar to what I use.

Yes, for larger panels, you can use this method to make cabinets.
BUT, you still need the two measurements in at each end to make the cuts parallel to the original edge, kind of a pain.
A good cabinet saw or accurate contractor saw will still be better for multiples, or narrow strips and rips because of the ease of sliding the fence for parallel cuts.
A track saw or circ saw with a guide will never replace my large table saw(s) for cabinet work or ripping stock to width in my shop.
I briefly owned the big Festool TS75 track saw, the long and short tracks, the multi function table and all the related goodies, but sold it to a contractor down the road.
I realized I would never need to use it with the stationary saws that I already had in the shop. I still break the sheets down before carrying them up to the shop.
Wrestling a 4 X 8 panel is a job the young and strong or two well coordinated people working in unison and the saw must have proper in and outfeed supports.

However, the circ saw and a guide is the cheapest way to go and is as accurate as your measurements.
I personally do not care for the "plunge" mechanism of the track saws. I like to make a 1/8" "starter cut" to check my guide's position relative to my marked line before I run the saw down the length of the guide. I suppose after repeated use the track's position would become second nature and I would trust it.

 

You have to replace the zero clearance strip every now and then. In Matching like dimensions is more important than being off a little

 

I live on my table saw. I cant live without it. If you want to take it from me, you will have to pull it from my cold dead fingers.
I also use similar jigs to @B Coll in post #11. I have several different sizes so as to not be bulkier than I need. They are very accurate but when in use but they take up more space than I can afford in my shop. I rarely use them but they do come in handy at times.
My table saw is 5 feet from my shop entry which has a roll-up door. I can slide plywood out of my van or truck on to roller stands and onto my table saw to be cut. I have a rolling outfeed table/assembly table. Whether I am cutting or not, I roll the outfeed table to the rear wall and slide the ply onto my vertical storage rack. No help needed.
All of my bench/table tops except, one are based on my table saw top. They are all on retractable wheels except for one bench top which ain't movin'. They are all 1/4" lower than the table saw with the wheels retracted.
I say "get the Saw Stop"

 

All three cold dead fingerz ?
I use my Bosch worm gear and a 8 foot long piece of 6061--1 x 3 guide and finish on a table router with a flush bit. Straight as glass.I use the same guide with my plasma cutter to slice sheets of steel.No rulers....thousands tolerance.

 

If you’re uncomfortable using the table saw I get it. Time is money in a shop and the table saw is where you’ll have to cut…At the commercial shop I had a 8’ fence.

 

How do track saws deal with warped or bowed sheet goods?

 

Well you should avoid warped ply, but the tracks will flex a little but not much with the weight of the saw, or the ply bends as you clamp. So yes, you can use track saws with minor bows.

@Kudzu and I don't know if this is a response to what I said, but referring back to the OP's situation, I was talking about a decision to put together a shop with or without a table saw. Everything we've been told says buy a table saw first or the table saw is the center of the shop. But I think that no longer holds true.

Sure, if you already have a decent table saw, I agree spending a lot of money on a track saw system is not a necessity, but a personal choice. I'm one of those who really like both my track saw and table saw, and my thinking is if I'm breaking down plywood why not do use a system that allows for final cuts? A good track saw system with good guides can do this, maybe better than a table saw. My personal choice was based on I don't have to tote around plywood which cause my back going south.

Ultimately, most choices are dictated by necessity vs. desire, and economic sense or ability. Then again some just like using nice tools.

 

.... I prefer to break down plywood with a circular saw. I use a simple plywood saw guide which is arguably as accurate as a track saw, and costs about $2 to make. .....
[/QUOTE]

Same here. Never saw the need to spend all that money for something so simple. I cut to size on mine though. Don't run it back through the table saw. I just remember to always set it up so that IF I let the saw move from the guide that I am cutting larger and not smaller. I can then just pull the saw back and trim that small tab off.

 

I've had the makita track saw for the last 10 years. If it quit today I'd have a new one tomorrow. I mostly use it for straight line ripping of rough lumber and getting a straight edge on plywood before ripping on the TS. They work pretty well for cross cutting large panels, sizing inset doors, rough scribing cabinets, among other things.

 

Thanks for the ideas!

I'm still up in the air as to which way I will go.

My table saw is halfway decent with the good Delta fence and outfeed table.

I may go with one of the premium track saws (Festool, Dewalt, Milwaukee, etc) and avoid buying the Sawstop for now. The good track saws will allow me to make the final cuts accurately enough to avoid re-cutting on the table saw.

Stay tuned!

Steve

 

I didn’t know Milwaukee makes a track now.

Has anyone tried it? Love it/hate it?

 

If you’re going to get guides be sure they are compatible.

 

I just built my kitchen with a track saw with parallel guides and Jobsite table saw.
In my opinion, as a guy who has built 1 set off cabinets 😁, you need a good track saw and an ok table saw. Just make sure it's accurate.
Tabke saw was mainly used to rip down rails and stiles to width and small stuff like door panels after cutting to height with track saw.

I have the Makita track and saw with TSO guides.

 

I wonder how many people on here have had injuries from circular saws? I personally know of several people that have. None of them on this forum that I know of though.

 

I am already vested in several Milwaukee tools that use the 18V battery, so I am seriously looking at the Milwaukee track saw. I have a bunch of their chargers and batteries, so I would only need to buy the saw and tracks for now.

I would really like to get the single long track (106") to avoid any issues with aligning two shorter tracks. However, that means using the long track for crosscuts on plywood, or buying another short piece to use for crosscuts.

Has anyone had serious issues with aligning the two track pieces to make a long one? I know probably noone here has a Milwaukee track, but in general are there alignment issues?

Thanks
Steve

 

Has anyone had serious issues with aligning the two track pieces to make a long one? I know probably noone here has a Milwaukee track, but in general are there alignment issues?

Thanks
Steve

It's important not to butt the two tracks together when you join them. They are not guaranteed to be cut at a perfect 90º angle. Instead, leave a small gap between them and use a straightedge to align them.

Even better than a straightedge, I picked up the Straight Line Connector when I got my saw and it works beautifully. Festool and others sell self-aligning connector bars as well, but I haven't used them.

 

Festool seems to be straight, can’t comment on others.

Get the short track, you’ll be glad you did. 😉

 

I watched the video review that Dr Robert posted (Thanks Dr Robert) and the Milwaukee looks like a well made tool with good features.

Most of my cordless tools are Milwaukee, but I recently got a Milwaukee driver, so I’m thinking I’ll have Makita in the shop and Milwaukee in the garage. The garage (or driveway) is where I’d likely be breaking down sheet goods.