I use TB original for most everything, TBIII for cutting boards and trivets, have never used TBII. But, and this is a big factor, I work in a climate controlled environment so the outside temp and humidity has no effect on my gluing. And right now I'm using hide glue on the guitar I'm building so very little TB at the moment.

 

Tell us more about how you’re using hide glue. I tried it a couple of times, but it seemed that as soon as it hit the wood, it cooled off and got gooey. How are you using it?

 

I use original Titebond for almost everything but complicated glue-ups or stuff that will be outdoors.

For complicated glue-ups, I use epoxy because I can control the set up time by using slow hardener. For outside stuff I use epoxy because it’s waterproof. I’m set up to mix epoxy in small amounts, or to spread large amounts when needed.

 

TB2 most of the time. Elmers glue all for pale colored wood.

TB3 for bent laminations or other laminations or complex glue ups. Never seen the need for long tack time in normal use.

BTW I’ve added water to thickened TB 3 years old and it still works fine.

 

FWIW, I have Titebond II from 2023 that I've thinned with water over the years and it still holds well.
I've also used Gorilla yellow glue with good results, especially on old furniture joints.
I understand that TB III is waterproof and is used for cutting boards.

From woodworkers guild:
Measuring Wood Glue Assembly Time

 

Last week I decided to throw away all my glue which was over a year old, possibly 2 years old, dont remember for sure. Between all three totaled up, I dont think there was even a half gallon. It was starting to get thick. So I decided that I would settle for Titebond II which was around $14 cheaper than Titebond III and mainly because Titebond II has a longer setting time. Titebond II setting time is 10 minutes and III is 5 minutes.
So, I was looking at my charts and notes on the wall and I had the setting times reversed. Big error. So now I have to go back and swap them out. So much for my great memory. LOL
Anyway, between all 3 Titebonds, to me the setting time is too quick espaecially with summer comming up.
Elmers Carpenters glue is 24 Hours setting time.
I dont like Gorilla Glue
What do you guys use and why?

I only use titebond 3 when it needs to be water resistant. The only PVA glue I've ever had issues with is the Elmers. I've had joints just come apart with it. I like the gorilla wood glue, it will work for interior or exterior applications.

 

We keep the following glues at present:

• Titebond III
• Titebond I (Original)
• Titebond Liquid Hide Glue ... (I won't buy more until I need it.)
• Gorilla Glue (Original - polyurethane)
• Mercury Adhesives Thin CA
• Mercury Adhesives Medium CA
• West System G/flex 650 Epoxy
• Assorted spray adhesives for various uses and purposes

Our everyday glue is Titebond III, mostly because my spouse likes it and it is suitable for most uses. I choose the Titebond I for light colored woods and when I want a short work time.

I do not like Gorilla Wood Glue. It is more slippery than the Titebond glues and it stays slippery too long, making clamping more of a challenge for me. I gave it to a friend.

Some of the alternative glues are used for special purposes. I use polyurethane for gluing pen tubes in pens and not much else, for example. I buy the smallest bottle of Gorilla Glue.

 

it stays slippery too long, making clamping more of a challenge for me.

Add a pinch of table salt to the joint, tiny bit. That will keep things from slipping around.

 

I originally used tb3 a lot for the open time. I really didn't like the glue joint it left or how soft it stays after curing. I only use tb1 at this point. If I need a long open time I'll use old brown hide glue or west system epoxy depending on the application.

 

I use TB original for most glue ups. Complicated glue ups I use TB Extend. Where moisture is involved I use TB III but do not like the creep you seem to get from it.

 

Most of my gluing is veneering. I use Tite bond II mostly from habit. It's always worked well. I like the way it spreads and tacks. With patterned layups especially the veneer sheet has to stay right where it is placed. I use water to loosen the veneer tape on the outer face that holds the sheet together until it is glued down. I'm less worried this will let the veneer joint lift when I use water resistant TB II, and this has not been a problem. On occasion I've noticed the bleed through that DrRobert mentions. I try to keep glue spread at about 10-12 mil wet spread and clamping pressure in the 50-60 psi range and have found it manageable.
I use urea formaldehyde resin glue for multiple ply bent laminations. I need the longer open time and find it has less springback than PVA glue. My shop temp is usually too cold for it, and I heat the press to about 90 degrees when I use it. I limit bent ply laminating to a smaller press what will get up to higher pressure in the 90-100 psi range. There's a coverage recommendation on the tub of glue powder that I find accurate.

 

Never had good luck with Gorilla glues. Elmer's joints tend to dry out and fail, after time.

For Titebond categories, only:
Titebond I - common use
Titebond II - more open time
Titebond III - when water resistance is needed, & for most outdoor projects. Also, for cutting boards & bowl turning glue-ups.

I commonly use a small amount of water to thin down if product starts to skin over, with good success and no adhesion issues. Also, I find that placing a layer of plastic wrap betweeen the storage bottle and cap keeps the seal airtight and prolongs the longevity of any of those glues.