I have a bunch of old true 4x6 heart pine beams that I was thinking of splitting to make a table. I would typically approach this and split them into 2" boards using my table saw (contractor size) with the blade all the way up, BUT I'm thinking perhaps this is not the best way to go. Does anyone have any safer/smarter suggestions to doing something like this without a band saw?
chsdiyer
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Nope
You're on the same page as I would be with the table saw. You can register off the same fence and flip them end for end to get the kerf the same distance from the fence. Then if necessary, hand saw through the remaining material to break the slab free. :yes:
A full depth cut may strain the motor, but if you use a 24 Tooth rip blade, with a thin kerf, you will minimize the power required. If you have to buy that blade for the project, you will still use it for many other rips in the future.... I know, I have this one:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...iablo-10-in-x-24-Tooth-Carbide-Circular-Saw-Blade-D1024X/100070768#.UjBvq389gVc
You're on the same page as I would be with the table saw. You can register off the same fence and flip them end for end to get the kerf the same distance from the fence. Then if necessary, hand saw through the remaining material to break the slab free. :yes:
A full depth cut may strain the motor, but if you use a 24 Tooth rip blade, with a thin kerf, you will minimize the power required. If you have to buy that blade for the project, you will still use it for many other rips in the future.... I know, I have this one:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...iablo-10-in-x-24-Tooth-Carbide-Circular-Saw-Blade-D1024X/100070768#.UjBvq389gVc
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39,645 Posts
possibly
Bandsaws don't care much if there's a slight twist in the work piece, that an other reasons, is why it's the "best' method.
The best/safest results will be if you have a square corner on your plank to register to the fence and to the table. Any twist in the plank will bind the blade.
Bandsaws don't care much if there's a slight twist in the work piece, that an other reasons, is why it's the "best' method.
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echo...echo...
I guess you didn't read my post, no. 2
At least we gave exactly the same advice. :yes:
I guess you didn't read my post, no. 2
At least we gave exactly the same advice. :yes:
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ripping or resawing dangerous?
If I were to resaw a 4" x 6" on the table saw I would set the blade at 2/3 maximum height or less then half the thickness. Make certain there is a square corner and a flat surface on 3 faces. Then make the rip cut using the fence, flip the board end for end, and make the second rip leaving a thin seam in the center. I would then hand saw the center away to separate the 2 pieces. This is slightly safer than cutting all the through and having the pieces separated by the table saw blade. The cut off piece may be heavy and awkward to control if separated.
One issue with a table saw is the kerf may close inside the rip and pinch the blade causing to bind and overheat. This will cause you to use more force to make the pass, rather than allowing the blade to cut on it's own rate. If the wood is prone to closing a bandsaw will be much safer. Making multiple passes will also help.
If the faces aren't square and parallel the board will twist or bind during the rip and may kickback at you. That's why my tag line reads.....
Yep, but so is almost every cut on a table saw or other power tool.I always looking at safety. Just wondering what is dangerous. Using a table saw to resaw what safety tips could you give me ? I use a band saw for most of my resawing but its just easier sometimes just to use the table saw.
If I were to resaw a 4" x 6" on the table saw I would set the blade at 2/3 maximum height or less then half the thickness. Make certain there is a square corner and a flat surface on 3 faces. Then make the rip cut using the fence, flip the board end for end, and make the second rip leaving a thin seam in the center. I would then hand saw the center away to separate the 2 pieces. This is slightly safer than cutting all the through and having the pieces separated by the table saw blade. The cut off piece may be heavy and awkward to control if separated.
One issue with a table saw is the kerf may close inside the rip and pinch the blade causing to bind and overheat. This will cause you to use more force to make the pass, rather than allowing the blade to cut on it's own rate. If the wood is prone to closing a bandsaw will be much safer. Making multiple passes will also help.
If the faces aren't square and parallel the board will twist or bind during the rip and may kickback at you. That's why my tag line reads.....
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dang, see 'em all
My post was intended for the person I quoted ... renoldston, ....just sayin'
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AS far as I know ...
The Freud Diablo line of blades are all thin kerf:
From the Manufacturer D1024X
This Diablo saw blade is designed to meet the needs of the construction and remodeling market. This advanced laser cut blade features a thin kerf, making it ideal for portable and low powered saws on the jobsite. A permanent Perma-SHIELD coating keeps this blade free from gumming and corrosion, and laser-cut stabilizer vents reduce vibration and heat buildup for more precise cuts and longer cutting life. This blade is the top choice for contractors who want a smooth finish when ripping. Ideal for ripping oak, pine, pressure treated lumber and plywood.
The Freud Diablo line of blades are all thin kerf:
From the Manufacturer D1024X
This Diablo saw blade is designed to meet the needs of the construction and remodeling market. This advanced laser cut blade features a thin kerf, making it ideal for portable and low powered saws on the jobsite. A permanent Perma-SHIELD coating keeps this blade free from gumming and corrosion, and laser-cut stabilizer vents reduce vibration and heat buildup for more precise cuts and longer cutting life. This blade is the top choice for contractors who want a smooth finish when ripping. Ideal for ripping oak, pine, pressure treated lumber and plywood.
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39,645 Posts
it was on Amazon's specs
This may help:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREUD-D1024...=17580&meid=1363601282363083075&pid=100011&prg=8145&rk=2&rkt=5&sd=290967603710&
This may help:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREUD-D1024...=17580&meid=1363601282363083075&pid=100011&prg=8145&rk=2&rkt=5&sd=290967603710&
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