I have a bunch of old true 4x6 heart pine beams that I was thinking of splitting to make a table. I would typically approach this and split them into 2" boards using my table saw (contractor size) with the blade all the way up, BUT I'm thinking perhaps this is not the best way to go. Does anyone have any safer/smarter suggestions to doing something like this without a band saw?
chsdiyer
Nope
You're on the same page as I would be with the table saw. You can register off the same fence and flip them end for end to get the kerf the same distance from the fence. Then if necessary, hand saw through the remaining material to break the slab free. :yes:
A full depth cut may strain the motor, but if you use a 24 Tooth rip blade, with a thin kerf, you will minimize the power required. If you have to buy that blade for the project, you will still use it for many other rips in the future.... I know, I have this one:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...iablo-10-in-x-24-Tooth-Carbide-Circular-Saw-Blade-D1024X/100070768#.UjBvq389gVc
You're on the same page as I would be with the table saw. You can register off the same fence and flip them end for end to get the kerf the same distance from the fence. Then if necessary, hand saw through the remaining material to break the slab free. :yes:
A full depth cut may strain the motor, but if you use a 24 Tooth rip blade, with a thin kerf, you will minimize the power required. If you have to buy that blade for the project, you will still use it for many other rips in the future.... I know, I have this one:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1...iablo-10-in-x-24-Tooth-Carbide-Circular-Saw-Blade-D1024X/100070768#.UjBvq389gVc
The table saw should be safe - assuming the boards do not have any internal stress which will cause the board to close on the blade. You will not see this on the first pass, only on the second. Been there, had this happen.
Set the blade to be a tad higher than middle of the board rather than maximum height. It is common the two cuts will not meet exactly, at least on some part of the board, so minimize the overlap.
I have tried this with circular saw and fence, before I purchased a table saw. This was a 4x4 so the circular saw blade was deep enough.
For the 6in thick board, I would use your table saw.
A band saw would be easier, but you stated that is not an option.
Set the blade to be a tad higher than middle of the board rather than maximum height. It is common the two cuts will not meet exactly, at least on some part of the board, so minimize the overlap.
I have tried this with circular saw and fence, before I purchased a table saw. This was a 4x4 so the circular saw blade was deep enough.
For the 6in thick board, I would use your table saw.
A band saw would be easier, but you stated that is not an option.
Without a bandsaw....the tablesaw method is your only option. I've done it before, but be careful as it is dangerous.
possibly
The best/safest results will be if you have a square corner on your plank to register to the fence and to the table. Any twist in the plank will bind the blade.
Bandsaws don't care much if there's a slight twist in the work piece, that an other reasons, is why it's the "best' method.
The best/safest results will be if you have a square corner on your plank to register to the fence and to the table. Any twist in the plank will bind the blade.
Bandsaws don't care much if there's a slight twist in the work piece, that an other reasons, is why it's the "best' method.
Great, thanks guys!
I had tried splitting a 3.5" piece of 8/4 walnut before and that closed up on my blade so I couldn't push and further. I thought that may be a common problem, but maybe it was just a bad piece of wood. I made my newel posts for my stairs with old beams this way, but they weren't as tall so it wasn't too much trouble. I just thought someone might have some trick or a better way of doing it.
I'll definitely look to get that better blade. I have an 80tooth one I used for my cabinet build and then the one I have on there now is a 24tooth but just a cheap Irwin that I think I've had on there since I got it and definitely not thin. And I'll need to make sure the corner is squared. It's pretty rough lumber so there probably would be a good chance of trouble if I ran it on the fence as it is now.
Thanks again for all the advice!
I had tried splitting a 3.5" piece of 8/4 walnut before and that closed up on my blade so I couldn't push and further. I thought that may be a common problem, but maybe it was just a bad piece of wood. I made my newel posts for my stairs with old beams this way, but they weren't as tall so it wasn't too much trouble. I just thought someone might have some trick or a better way of doing it.
I'll definitely look to get that better blade. I have an 80tooth one I used for my cabinet build and then the one I have on there now is a 24tooth but just a cheap Irwin that I think I've had on there since I got it and definitely not thin. And I'll need to make sure the corner is squared. It's pretty rough lumber so there probably would be a good chance of trouble if I ran it on the fence as it is now.
Thanks again for all the advice!
That's what I was thinking. I'd joint one 6" face flat first, then resaw off of that face. That and a riving knife should eliminate binding.woodnthings said:
One more thought, I'm not sure how powerful your TS is, but I've had my 1.75hp motor trip the internal breaker making big cuts before. If your TS is bogging down, you can make multiple passes raising the blade each pass and then flip the board and do it again.
To prevent the blade from binding, once you resaw from one side of the board, add a spacer to the kerf to prevent the board from closing up around the blade.
To prevent the blade from binding, once you resaw from one side of the board, add a spacer to the kerf to prevent the board from closing up around the blade.
echo...echo...
I guess you didn't read my post, no. 2
At least we gave exactly the same advice. :yes:
I guess you didn't read my post, no. 2
At least we gave exactly the same advice. :yes:
I've got a 14" Delta bandsaw that I believe could handle a 6" resaw. How long are the boards?
I also have a 6" jointer which would give you the flat face and square edge you'd need. I would at least take me up on this offer before running it through the tablesaw.
I'd gladly burnout a bandsaw blade and donate my time if it means keeping you from experiencing a nasty kickback scenario. Just let me know if you're interested. You've got my number and I think we will be in town the next few weekends.
Sean
I also have a 6" jointer which would give you the flat face and square edge you'd need. I would at least take me up on this offer before running it through the tablesaw.
I'd gladly burnout a bandsaw blade and donate my time if it means keeping you from experiencing a nasty kickback scenario. Just let me know if you're interested. You've got my number and I think we will be in town the next few weekends.
Sean
I see the what is happening. Break it up you two, or so help me I will turn this thread around!
That is the exact same blade I put on my portable Ridgid saw recently, to do what I was told, from another post. It works great, I'm very happy with he blade and the information that was given to me by people of this forum that lead me to buy the blade.woodnthings said:
Eric Williams
This blade on Amazon is a thin kerf. A thin kerf blade takes about 3/32 of wood, it has less carbide on it. I've been told that is what I should put on by saw, from a lumber yard. The one posted early, @ Depot is a normal kerf that takes 1/8".chsdiyer said:
Eric Williams
I have no intention of sounding contradictory. But I do not see that on the package, unlike model LU87R010 by Diablo, I may just be overlooking it. I would love to learn that the blade I have is a thin kerf blade, since the table saw, Ridgid R4510, I have is so small. Does this also mean the the Diablo 12", D1280X, is a thin kerf. That is on my DeWalt 12" radial, chop, compound miter saw. Thankswoodnthings said:
Eric Williams
it was on Amazon's specs
This may help:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREUD-D1024...=17580&meid=1363601282363083075&pid=100011&prg=8145&rk=2&rkt=5&sd=290967603710&
This may help:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREUD-D1024...=17580&meid=1363601282363083075&pid=100011&prg=8145&rk=2&rkt=5&sd=290967603710&
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