It's doubtful if the spray polyurethane would work. Often with spray can finishes they use acetone in the mix which could lift the gel stain. Be sure to try it on scrap wood first before trying it on your chairs. Otherwise it would be fine to put polyurethane over a gel stain.

 

Oy, i was afraid of this. I'll return em and get a brush on polyurethane. Thanks!

 

Unless the gel stain was water based use an oil based poly. You shouldn't put a water based finish over an oil based gel stain. A gel stain is more like paint than stain.

The fast dry poly rattle can stuff does have strong solvents in it. The instructions say recoat within 2 hours or wait 72 hours.

 

Here in Southern California, you have little choice. They don't sell oil based poly here. The rule of thumb here is to wait at least four days for the oil based gel stain to dry thoroughly before applying the water based polyurethane finish.

 

thanks for your help. GOing to head back to Ace tomorrow, then 4 more hours of sanding with no end in sight.

 

It wouldn't be so bad to travel to get solvents and stock up but finishes have a shelf life.

 

Maybe, but we are not supposed to bring those solvents into the area in the first place. That's the whole point of the restrictions. People who do so are violating the law, although everyone tacitly recognizes that the restrictions are difficult to enforce.

I have never seen a police checkpoint where they were questioning drivers and searching vehicles for restricted solvents. The thought makes me laugh.

I have been through a few checkpoints where they were searching for one specific solvent, but they use breathalyzers to detect it.

 

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/varathane/ultimate-polyurethane-oil-based/

Picked up this. Any objections? looked to be about my only option for an oil based poly here.

 

I have used poly over gel stains and gel/oil stain mixtures with great success. I usually mix my own stain of 1 part gel stain and 3 parts oil stain of the same color. It goes on smooth and even looking. Wipe off excess and let it dry overnight before applying poly.

 

I see lots of frustration over bubbles and varying mutually exclusive techniques for applying poly. This is going on chairs, should i light sand with very high grit paper between coats? I got tack cloth and i'll pick up some mineral spirits. What about diluting the poly with mineral spirits? The can says use full strength, every discussion i've seen people say dilute it with about 3 parts poly and one part mineral spirits.

This is sortof a pilot project for woodworking stuff i plan to do soon but i like to do things correctly the first time. Thanks for the help everybody!