For 220v wire #2-3-8 together. Wire J & 5 together. Wire your incoming lines to 1 & 4. If it runs backwards switch wires 5 & 8.

 

Thanks, Steve. I've already shut down and set the alarm but I'll look in the morning and see if I can read the numbers on the other wires. All I saw was the 4 and 8 that I mentioned earlier. It's a 220v only motor.

 

Most induction motors only spin one way no matter what way you connect the power wires. You can reverse most motor, but that generally involves cracking open the casing and reversing some connections. For yours, id assume greens ground, and since 220 power it hot-hot anyway, connect whichever motor lead to whichever hot line

 

Well, the motor shop closed early for Thanksgiving so I just came back and powered it up. It's only money if it blows up, right?

BUT, I did take some precautions in doing this. I clamped the motor mount into my vise and wired up the magnetic starter so I could start/stop easily. It runs just fine and I can tell it definitely has some power. I'm so glad I didn't just power it up on the floor. It would have rolled to Texas before I could shut it off!

I checked and it's pulling 9 amps with no load and just free wheeling in the vise. I have no idea if the rotation is correct; didn't get that far. But just looking at the diagram in the parts manual I think it's correct.

My test setup

Pulley cleaned and ready

Running -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ax01ooAJzlA

 

Wait, you're only pulling 9 amps on a 3 horse motor? That seems low, even at idle

 

motor sounds sweet. is there a fan under that end cap for motor cooling? and 9 amps does sound low. my 3 hp baldor on a once owned unisaw drew 32A @ 110V and 16A @ 220v.

 

Coming a little late to this party, but to confirm, here's a shot of the specs from the same motor stock number

 

Epic - Seemed kind of low to me, as well. But there are no belts, no bearings, no load whatsoever. Of course, I bought that Amprobe meter in the 70's but I think it still works fine. I think my son has one I gave him for Christmas a few years back so when he gets home I'll check with his (unless all I gave him was a DMM, can't remember).

The other lead is actually about 1/2 amp higher, but still only 9.5 amps

No load 9 amps

Toolguy - Yes sir, fan works great

Bob - Thank so much for the shot of the labels! Mine are clearly of little use.

 

Great info!

To reverse rotation, interchange leads 5 and 8.

 

If the motor is drawing 9 amps per leg it overall would be drawing 18 amps.

 

If the motor is drawing 9 amps per leg it overall would be drawing 18 amps.

This is incorrect. If it were true you have just turned ohms law on its head.

The motor the draws the same power, wattage, when wired 120 as it does wired 240.
Volts x amps = watts

It would be more accurate to say the circuit draws 9 Amps on leg A and returns 9 amps on leg B, the same way that a 120 circuit draws 18 amps on leg A and returns 18 amps to the neutral

 

Ttharp beat me to it but he is right you do not add both legs together to get total amps. Your amp draw would be the highest draw of 9.5.

 

Ttharp beat me to it but he is right you do not add both legs together to get total amps. Your amp draw would be the highest draw of 9.5.

And I should have reported it as 9.5 but I just glanced at that leg the first time and paid attention to the second leg, which is showing about a needle width above 9. I didn't get to check with my son to see if he had an amp meter to verify mine but I just can't imagine it being wrong.

The saw is going together nicely - I put the trunnion in tonight - and I'll have belts/pulleys/blade on soon and take a reading then.

 

Then why does a duo-voltage motor use twice as many amps per line on 120volts as it does on 220volts.

 

Watts is watts



1 HP equals 745 watts.
If you run it on 220 V it should draw 10.1 AMPS.
745/220 X 3 =10.1

If you run it on 120 it should draw 18.6 AMPS.
745/120 X 3 = 18.6

Almost double in "theory" .... your mileage may vary.

 

Then why does a duo-voltage motor use twice as many amps per line on 120volts as it does on 220volts.

Because the voltage is higher.

The power output remains the same.

 

Yes the power usage is the same for a motor at 120 volts as 220 volts. It's just the amperage is divided by 2 on a 220v line. A motor drawing 18amps on 220 has 9 amps on each leg or the whole 18 amps on one leg if wired to 120v.

 

i believe this is untrue. a 220v motor draws half the amperage over both hot legs of a 110v motor. the OP's meter is showing unloaded amperage and the rating plate on the motor states FLA (full load amperage).

 

There's a difference between an inductive (motor) load and a resistive (light bulb) load. The motor's ratings refer to the amps it pulls to give the three horsepower worth of torque. At idle, the motor isn't being stressed where a light bulb is at full power all the time.

There's sort a petty flaw in the design of that starter. About every 15 or 20 years of use, the control contacts get corroded and keep the starter from cycling. Cleaning the little contact buttons cures this for another 15 years or so.

 

Yes the power usage is the same for a motor at 120 volts as 220 volts. It's just the amperage is divided by 2 on a 220v line. A motor drawing 18amps on 220 has 9 amps on each leg or the whole 18 amps on one leg if wired to 120v.

Nope

 

Wire insulation colors coming from a switch are NEVER a save bet for assuming what switch connections they may lead to. Below is the switch wiring diagram for a Model 66 that came with an Asian IEC switch. Look at what part of the switch the wires connect. Included is also what might be the motor diagram. Help us out. take the time to post photos.