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Lock Miter Question

3.6K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  MastersHand  
#1 ·
Rockler has a lock miter bit on sale and I was thinking about getting one because they are usually so expensive. It's a 3/4". My question is how can a bit that is 3/4" tall put a good lock miter on a 3/4" board? I mean, it would have to be set absolutely perfect and if the board was say .760 thick, you'd get a burr. Should I get the bigger bit to do 3/4" stock?

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2142
 
#2 ·
TS3660 said:
Rockler has a lock miter bit on sale and I was thinking about getting one because they are usually so expensive. It's a 3/4". My question is how can a bit that is 3/4" tall put a good lock miter on a 3/4" board? I mean, it would have to be set absolutely perfect and if the board was say .760 thick, you'd get a burr. Should I get the bigger bit to do 3/4" stock?

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2142
It definitely has to be perfect we keep two dedicated router tables set which are never touched. There's a sign on it that reads touch this and you will get you're pink slip
 
#5 · (Edited)
#6 ·
Bud,
There are two incarnations of the bit. The one that is on sale is intended for wood up to about 5/8". That is the bit that is on sale. If you think about how the retail business works, the reason that the bit is on sale is because the bit isn't selling. The larger bit (91722) is selling some what better.

I have used the larger bit. (Amana not Rockler) My experience is that set up is exceptionally difficult. A perfect set up even with a micro adjusting router lift is just not reality. Even using a couple of jigs, set up is just not an easy job and almost never perfect. I don't have the book at hand, but check out pages 130 to 134 (somewhere in that area) of "In The Craftsman Style" for details about the jigs and how to use the router bit.

If you are building a box or cabinet carcass, a simple miter, TiteBond III and squaring jigs will give you just as strong a joint. When you tear apart a miter joint using TB-III glue and clamped long grain to long grain it is the wood fails before the glue. IMHO, TB-III is a stronger wood glue than any of the polyurethane (a.k.a. Gorilla) glues. But I digress. IMHO, the bit is nice in theory but not the most practical when making mitered corners.
 
#10 ·
In my opinion it is well worth the effort for set-up but I use mine often (CMT 3/4" & 5/4) they are great for me. I do a lot of box timbers and use tightbond II. As far as the 3/4", I always plane my wood up to 1/32 over. My table is a true ******* router table and not that easy to set up but worth the time IMO. Of course we may be talking about a differant lock miter too, mine is AC/DC.
 
#12 ·
In my opinion it is well worth the effort for set-up but I use mine often (CMT 3/4" & 5/4) they are great for me. I do a lot of box timbers and use tightbond II. As far as the 3/4", I always plane my wood up to 1/32 over. My table is a true ******* router table and not that easy to set up but worth the time IMO. Of course we may be talking about a differant lock miter too, mine is AC/DC.[/QUOTE]


Huh? :huh:
 
#11 ·
Whazzat?

.....Of course we may be talking about a differant lock miter too, mine is AC/DC. HUH? Whachu talkin' bout Willis? :blink: bill