Large Diameter Tap & Die Threading kit (1.75")

5759 Views 87 Replies 20 Participants Last post by Martinbcx, 3 mo ago

John Smith_inFL

Discussion Starter · 7 mo ago (Edited)

Yes, I've googled the heck out of it. The most common "large" size is 1.5" here in the U.S.
My question is, have any of you actually seen, or know of, the 1-3/4" wood threading kit ??
And, no - I don't want to make one, and no, I don't want to use a router or lathe to do the job.
And, no - I don't want to spend 800 Euros for the Dieter Schmid's 44mm set.
I'm just wondering if any of you have actually seen or used the 1-3/4" model yourself. (of any model or brand name).

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Homemade versions can be fraught with frustrations and disappointments due to the fact that the male and female threads MUST match perfectly in order for the mechanism to work properly.
1-1/2" Common Tap & Die
And, this is how it should work with a little fine-tuning.

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John Smith_inFL

Discussion Starter · #61 · 6 mo ago

Just an update on the spanner wrench. I can't remember when I turned matched handles for anything. (now, I think I know why). The FedEx guy should be rolling up any minute now to bring me a 30 pound box of "Goodies" to start making some projects. Another thank you for all the suggestions.

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difalkner

· #62 · 6 mo ago

Good job on those handles, John. That's definitely a good looking set.

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Bob Bengal

· #63 · 6 mo ago

John Smith_inFL said:
Just an update on the spanner wrench. I can't remember when I turned matched handles for anything.

Looks to me like you made a mistake, now they are too nice to use.

I've never done anything close to that, each handle you made is one piece of wood? How do you make the deep slot in the handle that is so large relative to the size of the of the wood?

Will be interesting to hear how much effort is required, even with the wood softened some. Are sharpening instructions included?

John Smith_inFL

Discussion Starter · #64 · 6 mo ago

Bob Bengal said:
I've never done anything close to that, each handle you made is one piece of wood? How do you make the deep slot in the handle that is so large relative to the size of the of the wood?

Will be interesting to hear how much effort is required, even with the wood softened some. Are sharpening instructions included?

Bob - those are from just a generic 1" Poplar dowel rod you find in the Box Store. I drill a 1/4" hole 1/2" deep on each end to establish the centers before I start turning. Then, if you have to do anything after the turn, you have a true center hole as a guide to keep it centered. I drilled the holes free-hand on the bench drill press with a 3/8" bit and went 4.5" deep. Poured in a lot of 5 min epoxy, put on the ferrule cap and pounded the wrench down to the hilt and made sure it was "true" and let the epoxy set up. Half hour later, did the other end the same way and let it sit overnight to fully cure. Then the final sanding and finish. WaLa - done. Drilling holes in a small object and continuing on down deeper past the DP limits is not for the faint-of-heart. You can actually feel the wood get pretty warm inside your hand just before it breaks out. (so you stop before that happens).
The only sharpening instructions were: "Be careful when you sharpen the cutters" LOL LOL and that's all. I'm going to invest in a couple of slip stones that fit the profiles. I'm pretty sure it will be miles down the road before they need any maintenance. Then, build a custom box to keep it all in. This set cost as much as a used Saw Stop - so I'm gonna protect my investment.
The red lines is where I trimmed it to fit on the band saw to give some wiggle-room to make it all true.

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John Smith_inFL

Discussion Starter · #65 · 6 mo ago

Update;
Spent the day making the mini-workbench and made the Moxon Screw for the vise. It should be all done tomrrow. For a "prototype", it will probably be just my (Pine) beater-bench and after the bugs are worked out, make a really nice one worthy of coming into the house sometimes. I'm continually being impressed by the quality of this tool. My mind is buzzing with all the projects and gadgets to make with it.

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difalkner

· #66 · 6 mo ago

That came out really nice, John. And yes, that tool is very impressive!

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BigJim

· #67 · 6 mo ago

Just thinking out loud, will the dowel shrink back down if left out of the oil for a length of time to dry? If so maybe the threads will shrink also if cut too soon. Just a thought.

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John Smith_inFL

Discussion Starter · #68 · 6 mo ago

Dunno Jim - I'm still in the expermenting stage right now.
Putting the butt end in a can of acetone overnight wicked out the oil and when the acetone evaped out, the raw wood is quite evident. That is the end that will be glued into the handle hub. The oil can stay on the threads. Maybe even some furniture wax too.
The next obstical is the danged 1" dowels. Big Box dowels are 1.01" in diameter and the 1" forstner bit is .99". I had to put the dowel on the lathe and sand it down to fit. At present, I don't have anything that will sand the holes in the vise jaws so the dowels will slide in and out without friction.
This "plug-and-play" project is turning into WORK !!

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difalkner

· #69 · 6 mo ago

John Smith_inFL said:
the 1" forstner bit is .99"

How about a reamer after the Forstner bit? https://www.amazon.com/Accusize-Tools-H-S-S-Aligning-0522-0001/dp/B07BNT63MV/

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Half Fast Eddie

· #70 · 6 mo ago

John Smith_inFL said:
This "plug-and-play" project is turning into WORK !!

Scope creep.
Or the law of unintended consequences.

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TEK

· #71 · 5 mo ago

Hi John
Just came over this thread. Congratulation on your threading kit.
Gooing to be interesting to hear about your journy into threading.
I actually made my own tap and die set, several sizes, the largest I think was 2" or 2 1/2". I’m still using that screw for my leg vise.
It does not go as smoothly as the ones made with the Peugote Freres, but it works very well and is nice and tight.
But there are a bit more action using the actual tool.

Good threeding!

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Kenh3497

· #72 · 5 mo ago

A trick I've been using is to soak wood threads with thin CA. After they are cured re-tap/thread. Make sure the CA is completely cured before threading parts together. Don't ask how I know.........

The CA does a good job of hardening the threads especially the end grain that will show up in a block after tapping. The CA is also a little more slippery than wood. Should also work on your dowels and the hole the dowels slide in.

Good luck with your projects John! You have a pretty good start with some nice tools!!!

ken

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John Smith_inFL

Discussion Starter · #73 · 5 mo ago

wow, good to see you Tek !! Yeah, I'm going through the process of learning how this thing works on a larger scale. I think I've finally got it all figured out.

Ken - I'm having problems with the alignment dowels not moving as they should. (sticking). I'm on track for that part now. Eventually, I want to put some of these on the market to sell. But, I can not, in good concenience, do it at this time. I have found out that the roughed out "hub" must be permanently attached to the threaded dowel first. THEN, the assembly is turned as one solid piece to ensure a smooth and accurate piece.
4th try should be a winner LOL.

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woodnthings

· #74 · 5 mo ago

John Smith_inFL said:
The next obstical is the danged 1" dowels. Big Box dowels are 1.01" in diameter and the 1" forstner bit is .99". I had to put the dowel on the lathe and sand it down to fit. At present, I don't have anything that will sand the holes in the vise jaws so the dowels will slide in and out without friction.

Make a long, thin slit in an undersized dowel, say 7/8" and insert some 100 grit paper until it barely will fit into the holes.
Use a Bannister bolt or cut off lag bolt in the end to chuck in your battery drill and spin the dowel until you have a precise fitting assembly.

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TEK

· #75 · 5 mo ago

What are the alignment dowels for?
Are you making a face vice?
Regarding dowels, I have not found any here, so I usually make mine on the lathe…
Great idea on the hub, I will borrow that one 😊

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John Smith_inFL

Discussion Starter · #76 · 5 mo ago

yes, the two support dowels in a face vise. The holes and alignment dowels must be perfectly smooth and aligned for it to work without binding. Also, the threaded holding block should be about 2" thick, which also helps. And after gluing the roughed-out hub into the threaded dowel, you concentrate on getting the dowel perfectly centered. I am buying exact size dowels from a company so there is no wiggle-room to mess around with where it will be off-centered in the final product. Trial by Fire, is what I think they call it. The learning curve is a bit more than I expected, but, I'm getting there.
The last resort is to glue the hub onto a piece of square stock and turn the whole thing.. Then, there will be no issues.

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TEK

· #77 · 5 mo ago

On the other side, not all screws have to be large😉

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John Smith_inFL

Discussion Starter · #78 · 5 mo ago

LOL yeah. But, I have the Tim-the-Tool Man mentality = mo bigger, mo better.
This is cherry wood and is still a work in progress.

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builtinbkyn2

· #79 · 5 mo ago

TEK said:
On the other side, not all screws have to be large😉
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Oh I am so stealing that idea for next years Christmas lol Very cool!

Kenh3497

· #80 · 5 mo ago

TEK said:
On the other side, not all screws have to be large😉
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You cracked your nut.......

Ken

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