I have an older Craftsman jointer/planer 5 1/8". My blades are in pretty rough shape. So I called to order new blades but they are discontined apparently. I'm not sure they could even be sharpened. Anyone know tricks or where I can find these old blades?!
Ebuuck
Are you certain about 5 1/8"?
The standard size for small jointers is 6 1/8" and there are all kinds of sources for them...Amazon, Grizzly, Ebay etc. even www.Searspartsdirect.com
Also:
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p4712.m570.l1313&_nkw=6%22+jointer+blades&_sacat=See-All-Categories
I have sharpened mine on wet dry paper taped to glass with, mineral spirits wash and on the vertical belt sander using a fine grit belt. A clamping fixture to maintain a safe hold and the proper angle is needed. Let us know what you find.
bill
The standard size for small jointers is 6 1/8" and there are all kinds of sources for them...Amazon, Grizzly, Ebay etc. even www.Searspartsdirect.com
Also:
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p4712.m570.l1313&_nkw=6%22+jointer+blades&_sacat=See-All-Categories
I have sharpened mine on wet dry paper taped to glass with, mineral spirits wash and on the vertical belt sander using a fine grit belt. A clamping fixture to maintain a safe hold and the proper angle is needed. Let us know what you find.
bill
That's great
But for spares I would get a set of 6 1/8" and shorten them with a die grinder and a thin cut off wheel. Always have a back up. :thumbsup: bill
BTW what model is that unit and do you have any picture you can post. Sounds like a rare one!
But for spares I would get a set of 6 1/8" and shorten them with a die grinder and a thin cut off wheel. Always have a back up. :thumbsup: bill
BTW what model is that unit and do you have any picture you can post. Sounds like a rare one!
Another source would be Global Tooling. They'll make them any size you want. Give 'em a call. I'd keep an extra set or two on hand just in case considering the odd length.
I was wondering if I could do that exact thing. Buy some 6 1/8" and cut the end off. I'd have to make sure the holes lines up first. Anyways, I found a good place that can sharpen these AND I'm going to ask them to make another set for me. Their website says they can make them! Thanks for your suggestions!
P.S.- Yes its an oldie. Sears Craftsman 5 1/8" Jointer/planer. Model #149236320 if you want to see it.
P.S.- Yes its an oldie. Sears Craftsman 5 1/8" Jointer/planer. Model #149236320 if you want to see it.
Never heard of that size jointer... I know HF has a wierd one at 7"... They dropped the 8" and kept the 7" size (what were they thinking?).
I'm not understanding why you can't just sharpen the knives.(have them sharpened) Do you have a picture of those ?
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I sent them off to a professional sharpening company and they called this morning. He said that the blades have a crown across the edge and if he got rid of the crown and sharpened them, they probably wouldn't work in the machine. Three bolt holes at the bottom. I'll get a picture when I get them back.
Unfortunately
If the 3 hole system is the only means of securing the blades, then you are stuck unless you can find some with the identical size and spacing. Since it's tool steel there is not easy way short of EDM, laser jet or a water jet to "drill" holes in a blank or newer longer blade.
There is another possible means of securing non original blades, called gibs, which when tightened, expand to lock the blades in place. Whether or not the cutter head has a tapered wedge shaped slot to allow this type of setup only you know. If it has a parallel slot then that won't be a safe alternative, since they can possibly fly out.
A metallurgist, machine shop, blade sharpening service, or one of our members.... would be able to tell you if the crown in the blades can be straightened by heating or bending and what effect that will have on the hardness and strength of the steel afterward.
Unfortunately....there is not a simple remedy.
I'll give you an example of fixing something that is broken.
My truck horn stopped working and the mechanic said "Your horn don't work" I said "Drop it on the ground, if it's broken, it won't be any more broken after that" He did. It worked. The point being, try anything since you have nothing to lose as long as it's safe.
:yes: bill
If the 3 hole system is the only means of securing the blades, then you are stuck unless you can find some with the identical size and spacing. Since it's tool steel there is not easy way short of EDM, laser jet or a water jet to "drill" holes in a blank or newer longer blade.
There is another possible means of securing non original blades, called gibs, which when tightened, expand to lock the blades in place. Whether or not the cutter head has a tapered wedge shaped slot to allow this type of setup only you know. If it has a parallel slot then that won't be a safe alternative, since they can possibly fly out.
A metallurgist, machine shop, blade sharpening service, or one of our members.... would be able to tell you if the crown in the blades can be straightened by heating or bending and what effect that will have on the hardness and strength of the steel afterward.
Unfortunately....there is not a simple remedy.
I'll give you an example of fixing something that is broken.
My truck horn stopped working and the mechanic said "Your horn don't work" I said "Drop it on the ground, if it's broken, it won't be any more broken after that" He did. It worked. The point being, try anything since you have nothing to lose as long as it's safe.
:yes: bill
On the model Bill posted, the blades do not have holes. It shows two holddown screws and the gib.
Do your blades have holes in them? If not, make exact measurements, especially on the thickness. The blades can then be cut to length.
Just make sure the length is exact, or it will cause too much vibration.
Something like this is hard to diagnose online. Need to have hands on to fix correctly.
After re-reading, I see the blades have holes. Nevermind.:blink:
Do your blades have holes in them? If not, make exact measurements, especially on the thickness. The blades can then be cut to length.
Just make sure the length is exact, or it will cause too much vibration.
Something like this is hard to diagnose online. Need to have hands on to fix correctly.
After re-reading, I see the blades have holes. Nevermind.:blink:
You are not out of luck. They can be sharpened in the head if your outfeed table (or the head height) is adjustable. I just gave a demo to our WW Guild on a 1951 Delta 6" without removing the baldes. They dialed in at .001 TIR after the final stoning. If you decide to cut down longer blades, be sure to weigh them so you can get the head a balanced as possible. You don't say if the blades are indexed to pins in the head or need to be dialed in. If your outfeed table is adjustable and you can get the blades back in the head, send me your email addressand I will send you a PPT with instrustions on how to sharpen.
dan
dan
No I can't find those things anywhere. I was able to have an old guy sharpen the old ones and they are way better then they used to be. I spent hours online and talked to numerous machine shops. Nothing online and they all wanted $100 to make them. I figure with as much as I use it, it should last a few years. I'd say keep the sets you have in good condition and don't bother looking for new ones!!
Craftsman 5 1/8" jointer blads
I have the identical jointer as ebuuck. blades are 5 1/8 X 1/8 X 7/8 with three mounting holes. I only have the one single set of blades and am also looking for spares.
I have mine sharpened at:
Scott's Sharpening Service
8505 W. Mclellan Rd.
Glendale, AZ
800-594-7262
He has the correct equipment for these blades & does an excellant job for $10
The jointer cuts like velvet now as I have the re-sharpend blades adjusted perfectly to the outfeed table height..
Hope this helps
PS: He also sharpens my Ryobi AP 10 planer blades
I have the identical jointer as ebuuck. blades are 5 1/8 X 1/8 X 7/8 with three mounting holes. I only have the one single set of blades and am also looking for spares.
I have mine sharpened at:
Scott's Sharpening Service
8505 W. Mclellan Rd.
Glendale, AZ
800-594-7262
He has the correct equipment for these blades & does an excellant job for $10
The jointer cuts like velvet now as I have the re-sharpend blades adjusted perfectly to the outfeed table height..
Hope this helps
PS: He also sharpens my Ryobi AP 10 planer blades
plenty of people making custom jointer blades, and they're not super expensive if you stick with HSS. Try shooting these guys an email with your specs:
http://wkwinc.com/subtypek.asp
http://wkwinc.com/subtypek.asp
Obsolete 5 1/8" Craftsman-Jointer blades
The Blades Ebuuck & I speak of have mounting holes in them.
5 1/8" X 7/8" X 1/8"......lots of places make knives, but if you want them with mounting holes such as these, they are either not available or cost prohibative. I can get generic knives in this size but it would take an abrasive water jet to form the holes in them which again seems cost prohibative.
The Blades Ebuuck & I speak of have mounting holes in them.
5 1/8" X 7/8" X 1/8"......lots of places make knives, but if you want them with mounting holes such as these, they are either not available or cost prohibative. I can get generic knives in this size but it would take an abrasive water jet to form the holes in them which again seems cost prohibative.
Attachments
Well that sucks. I've got a used pair of 12" Craftsmans but the holes are round and too close. I've got a used pair of 15" Makitas - the holes are correct but the blades are too fat/tall.
Craftsman didn't make the tools, they rebranded - and the only other planer I found reference to with that size cutter was AMT, which of course is out of business so no luck there.
It's always a sad day when a tool dies, but since 6" seems to be the minimum standard, and these are so small, maybe it's time for a burial, short mourning period, and then you pick up another one.
Another option, and it would depend on how much space you've got on the tables, would be to swap out the cutterhead with a 6" - but that would only work if the wiggle-room is there.
Craftsman didn't make the tools, they rebranded - and the only other planer I found reference to with that size cutter was AMT, which of course is out of business so no luck there.
It's always a sad day when a tool dies, but since 6" seems to be the minimum standard, and these are so small, maybe it's time for a burial, short mourning period, and then you pick up another one.
Another option, and it would depend on how much space you've got on the tables, would be to swap out the cutterhead with a 6" - but that would only work if the wiggle-room is there.
Edm ?
Our member Bud, aka TS3660, just posted some great examples of EDM here. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/home-made-wrenches-34799/
Once a program was written it would seem pretty easy to make a dozen or so, cut to length from longer blades and holes in the proper location. bill
Our member Bud, aka TS3660, just posted some great examples of EDM here. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/home-made-wrenches-34799/
Once a program was written it would seem pretty easy to make a dozen or so, cut to length from longer blades and holes in the proper location.
billThrow in the towel man...I've searched the dungeons of hell looking for those blades and even someone to make them for less than $100 a piece...Can't be done nor be found. I had mine sharpened and when they are bad, like you said, a proper burial will be conducted and a newer, sexier model will be replacing it...
Slot the blades?
I guess you could carefully slot the blades you say are the correct size but do not have holes with a cutoff wheel. I'm not sure I would be comfortable with the open slot though not knowing the quality of the bolts and threads, but that is an option. I would be cruising CL for another jointer. The bench top models can be had for near nothing in the StL CL. I understand if you are wanting a small bench top machine but there are excellent older 4 and 6" Deltas and others available that don't require much floor space, are not difficult to repair or rebuild, and have replaceable parts.
I guess you could carefully slot the blades you say are the correct size but do not have holes with a cutoff wheel. I'm not sure I would be comfortable with the open slot though not knowing the quality of the bolts and threads, but that is an option. I would be cruising CL for another jointer. The bench top models can be had for near nothing in the StL CL. I understand if you are wanting a small bench top machine but there are excellent older 4 and 6" Deltas and others available that don't require much floor space, are not difficult to repair or rebuild, and have replaceable parts.
I have a sharpening business here in Ohio I sharpen jointer and planer blades up to 20 inch for.50 per inch. Here is my web site for info to send them to me if interested. Www.hammssharpening.com plus postage.ibjman said:
Same Problem
I'm wondering, when the blades go bad for good, can you reverse them? It looks like they are a little short on the other side, but it may be doable. Otherwise, most of the planers on craigslist are the 6" type, although the 4" types still have blades available. These are decent small jointers for the price.
There are 2 tools for sharpening these, one from Veritas, about $60.00, and a sharpening stone of sorts from Woodcraft tools, or maybe on ebay for about $10.00. Otherwise, there are 2 sharpening services available.
I'm wondering, when the blades go bad for good, can you reverse them? It looks like they are a little short on the other side, but it may be doable. Otherwise, most of the planers on craigslist are the 6" type, although the 4" types still have blades available. These are decent small jointers for the price.
There are 2 tools for sharpening these, one from Veritas, about $60.00, and a sharpening stone of sorts from Woodcraft tools, or maybe on ebay for about $10.00. Otherwise, there are 2 sharpening services available.
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