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Injecting glue under veneer with a syringe. Is this possible?

40K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  firemedic  
#1 ·
Hi there

I have an antique piece of furniture and its veneered with a very thin veneer. Although 99% of the veneer is stuck well, there is a small patch in the middle(maybe about an inch square) that has become delaminated. I really don't want to finely slice into the veneer, but would rather drill a very fine hole in which to inject wood glue under the veneer. Ideally I would like to use Evo-stick wood glue.

http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/Resin-W-Extra-Fast-Interior-Wood-Adhesive/4

In my head (although im not sure if its possible), I would like to get hold of a very fine needle syringe and draw up this glue and then simply inject it under the surface of the veneer - like a form of keyhole surgery.

Is this at all possible - has anyone ever done this sort of work before? Is the evo-stik wood glue fine enough to be administered from a needle syringe? If any of this is indeed possible, where could I get this sort of needle/ syringe equipment?

If anyone can help, I would be so appreciative

Many thanks

Daniel
 
#2 ·
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You can get injectors here. You could use various glues, but I prefer to use Titebond II. It's easy to work with and easy clean up. I would do a thin slice with the grain with an X-Acto knife and a #11 blade. Drilling a hole will leave a hole which will likely be more detectable.







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#4 ·
Before trying to inject glue, try some heat. Use an iron set on medium high, lay down a clean cloth, apply the iron. This should activate the original glue. You can use a roller to press the veneer down as it begins to cool and then clamp things down with a piece of flat plywood, heavily weighted. The more even and strong clamping you can do, the better. Get it solid while things are still a bit warm. This means you have everything needed at your fingertips before starting and you have done a dry run so you can move fast when the heat is applied.
 
#5 ·
Thank you so much for your replies.

I had previously tried the ironing method for veneer re-adhesion but it didn't take properly. The reason that im rather worried about the slicing method is that the veneer is so thin that slicing it and then gently lifting then veneer will probably snap it off entirely under any sort of pressure (I think someone might have over sanded this piece in the past). Thats why I wanted to try this hole drilling method. Once the glue is in, i would fill the hole and then repolish, so im not worried about the hole itself.

I was just hoping that I can use a needle syringe to apply this wood glue. The veneer sits up in this area slightly, so inserting a needle then filling it with glue, then clamping could work, with out risk of further damage to veneer. Any excess glue would be forced out of the hole and easily wiped away (I hope)

Just need to find out how thin a needle I could get away with that will be able to administer this glue without it clogging

Cabinetman: Thank you for this link. Have you ever actually tried this?
 
#6 ·
Cabinetman: Thank you for this link. Have you ever actually tried this?
Yep...lotsa times. Depending on what glues were used previously, the iron trick or a heat gun may not work. What I may suggest is to make the cut as long as the defective area. If the veneer is loose, you can get to either side at a time, by having one high side, and a low side, and inserting the needle. Then do the other side. You likely won't need too much, but, as you press the veneer down you will likely get some squeeze out. Wipe off excess immediately with a damp (water) rag and hold down veneer until it dries.

If you cleaned it up, you can apply waxed paper over the repair and apply weights, or blue painters tape as a hold down. You can dilute Titebond around 5% or less if your needle gauge is too small. Most of the needles for glue will carry fresh Titebond.






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#9 ·
Do you know any Vets, doctors, nurses, paramedics or pharmacist? They could get you a syringe and needle for free... Tell them you need a few 24, 22, and 20 gauge needles. You won't be able to push TB out of a 24 unless it's thinned.

I think you may need a prescription for medical grade syringes from a pharmacy. It never hurts to ask though!

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
 
#12 ·
I was going to suggest an allergy doctor but those syringes are 26 gauge and I doubt that you could get glue through them.

On another path...

Recently I used a glue injector (From Woodcraft) to repair a piano bench. The injector looks like a concertina but only about an inch in diameter and a couple of inches tall with a two inch "needle". The process worked very well but it required a 3/32" hole to clear the needle.
 
#14 ·
danielm said:
Thank you again to everyone who has taken the time to help me with this, Im so appreciative.

I have now ordered 16, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 and 24 gauge needles from an online medical supply shop in the hope that one of them will be perfect to dispense this wood glue.
Good deal, 16 gauge is pretty much a horse needle, lol... Granted if you are an overdose you get one sometimes two 14g IV caths on my truck.

I love when I reverse an OD or high and they get pissed off at me... :smile: I'm a real buzz kill!

But anyways, glad you found a source, did you order syringes too? Those you CAN get at a pharmacy... When trying to push anything syrupy out of a syringe, the smaller in diameter the plunger the easier... 10cc is a pretty good mid range size and what I use...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
 
#15 ·
But anyways, glad you found a source, did you order syringes too? Those you CAN get at a pharmacy... When trying to push anything syrupy out of a syringe, the smaller in diameter the plunger the easier... 10cc is a pretty good mid range size and what I use..
If there is a choice, I use BD brand syringes and needles. I find they are the best.




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