The ideal height is the height at which YOU are most comfortable working with the saw.

For the vast majority of us we are happy with the height at which the manufacturer built the saw. We never give it a thought.

It is relatively easy to raise the height, but difficult to lower. You are not much under average height so I would guess the manufactured height will be good for you.

You can find lots of data on preferred table height for working at various tasks. However, I have never seen anything for table saws. My graduate major was Industrial Engineering with a minor is Human Factors. However, my data sources are many years old now and I suspect much newer data is available.

Just work at the saw for a few months and if it feels good to you be happy. If it does not feel good/safe then modify as needed.

George

 

Do table saw manufactuers all strive for the same or similar tabletop heights? Or, do they vary? Does the depth of the tabletop make a difference? I would think it would, as it is harder to "reach" over a table when ripping a board if the tabletop is deep versus not deep. Are table saws with deep tables (i.e. lots of table both before and after the board goes through the blade) lower for easier reach? Has anyone ever even measured?

The saw I plan to buy is the SawStop Jobsite saw, which has a not very deep table in order to stay compact sized for easy transportability. Yes, I know it comes with a folding cart which you are forced to buy, but I nevertheless plan to dismount the cart from the saw as the cart does not work well with my plans for the portable and compact shop.

Jim G

 

Most table saws are around 34" high.

 

Manufacturers must think this is the "ideal height" or they would not all make them within an inch of this "standard" height.

 

Get the saw and try it out on the stand that comes with it, make any adjustments you feel necessary from there. Long and short of it is that only you will know what height works best for you.

 

Saw heights do vary out of the box but generally there's a range. As was said already you should work at whatever height you feel comfortable with. Put your saw together and experiment some.

I think most would agree that 'belt buckle' height is pretty comfortable overall.

This is coming from someone who's used TS's from on the ground to chest height and everything in between, but bottom line is you need to figure out what works best for you.

 

After I got mine set up (on a mobile base), it measured about 34 1/2 inches. So I built my outfeed table and have it adjusted just a smidgeon less than that.

I used to be 5' 10". Maybe a little less now. :sad:

 

I am 6' 4" and the majority of my pieces are 24" or less. My tablesaw/router table, outfeed table and workbenches are 41" high.
My Unisaw is bolted to a platfom that is bolted to the concrete floor.

 

Interesting when compared to what others earlier in the thread have said.

You are 6'4" = 76" tall and have a 41" table height.

I am 5'9" = 69", or 7" shorter, which suggests that for me, an "equivalent " height would be 41" minus 7" = 34".

This happens to also be the number that others earlier in the thread seem to have grouped around - regardless of their height.

That's 2" lower than a standard kitchen countertop height, but 4" higher than a standard dining table height.

MTStringer points out that his tablesaw height is 34", but only after mounting it on a mobile base, which suggests that the "factory" height withOUT a mobile base is more like 32", which is the height that WoodnThings prefers for his tablesaw.

The SawStop website is silent on the table height of the Jobsite saw on its cart. However, for the SawStop Contractor Saw, when you expand the specs table, it shows a 34-3/4" "body" height, which probably, but not definitively, means table top height without the fence and blade guard.

Note that the Contractor saw has a table "depth" (i.e. along the cutting line) of 27", versus the 22-5/8" depth of the Jobsite saw - a huge 19% difference.

For the next step up, the SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw, SawStop is even less definitive when it simply says the "height" of the saw is 34", without specifying if tnat is tabletop height or what.

Interestingly, while the cabinet saw gets pretty WIDE with its wings, the table depth along the cutting line remains at the same 27" as the Contractor model. The Jobsite model's 22-5/8" depth is clearly SawStop's effort to keep the entire package very small and portable - which works terrifically with both my drive for a small and light saw AND my small workpieces.

For the "bench" that I mount the saw onto for working with it, I suppose I should ideally try to find 4 heavy duty castors with mount plates that allow each castor to thread in to a variable height, so that I can experiment with tabletop heightn for my specific body and my specific work. Do such "variable height" castors exist? I'm not sure what phrase to use in Google!

Jim G

 

Jim - have you checked out the Paulk Total Station on You Tube? Seems to me that might be an ideal set up for your situation. He had his bench set up to haul in a trailer to the jobsite. BTW, his trailer is awesome. Check that out also.

Here are some pics of one that a guy local to me built. Looks pretty good and everything fits inside of the bench to store against a wall. I have his miter saw and work bench plans. I used them for reference when I built my miter saw station.

 

Yes! I discovered Ron Paulk's site some weeks ago, and have been meaning to look more closely at his Total Station!

I'm thinking about how to handle the difference in benchtop height needed to address the 2 very different bench heights needed for the SawStop Jobsite saw and the Micro-Mark Mini Milling Machine (the nicer of the 2 Micro-Mark mini mill models).

For example, to get the tablesaw tabletop surface to, say 34", the benchtop has to be 34 - 15.5 of saw thickness = 18.5" off the floor.

But for the Mini Mill, I want about a 42" tabletop height, and its tabletop is about 6.5" above its base, so the base has to sit on a benchtop that is about 35.5" above the floor!

I am not keen on cantilevering the saw off the bench like Paulk did on his first effort. When he changed to the SawStop Jobsite saw, he stopped doing the cantilever, and just has the Jobsite saw tabletop basically sitting on its cart and matching closely the height of the adjacent bench (see his video). But I really don't want that cart - it is wildly space inefficient when the saw is not in use.

Maybe TWO benches conceptually similar to Paulk's, one for each, and then to get fancier, a connecting piece to accept the sander or arbor press, whichever is needed at the time?

One of the things I like about Paulk's design is the way the benchtop is strong via hollow beam construction, but stores compactly when the supporting bases are removed.

Designing the compact, lightweight, and portable shop is proving to be a lot of fun. I am amazed at how small and light it may become.

Jim G

 

I'll add one more "my saw is" just FYI - I'm 5' 6", my saw is 34.5" and I wouldn't mind it being 1" or 2" shorter.

 

Paulk Plans

Jim,
I built Ron Paulk's workbench about a year ago and I am amazed how much I use it. I modified mine a little bit to fit more my needs and I know Ron actually wants us to do that. I plan on building the total station in the next couple of months because I see that it should actually be more useful to me.
I found Ron's plans to be easy to follow and plus he has Youtube build videos to go along with the plans.
In any case you can adjust the height of the sawhorses for your comfort level.
Good Luck,

Marty

 

Ok, here's something very interesting. I called SawStop this afternoon and had one of their tech support people take some measurements for me. here's the interesting one: the tabletop height on the Jobsite saw is 36".

Note this pattern within the SawStop table saw models:

The SawStop Professional Cabinet saw with a table depth(front to back) of 27" of has a table height of 34".

The SawStop Contractor saw with the same table depth of 27" has a table height of 34-3/4".

The SawStop Jobsite saw with a much shorter table depth of 22" has a table height of 36".

So, conclusions:

- There is NOT a fixed standard for table height, even within the models from ONE manufacturer

- In terms of pattern, the only pattern MIGHT be that saws that are smaller in table surface area, especially in the front to back table top dimension, MIGHT be built higher. This makes some ergonomic sense, as you need to bend over less to reach the far (rear) edge of the table when the saw table top is less deep. You MIGHT conclude from this that SawStop thinks a higher tabel top is better, but keeps the height at "only" 34" on its saws with deep table in order to make it easier, and safer, for the operator to reach across the top of the saw to the reach of the table top. But, that's pure conjecture. The tech was not able to shed any light on why. He seemed intrigued that I care, but I also noticed that he was surprised enough at the 36" measurement on the first Jobsite saw he measured, that he measured another Jobsite saw "just to make sure".

Since SawStop probably has SOME reason for the 36" height for the Jobsite, I guess in the absence of any better information, I might just duplicate that 36" height. Since the saw is 15.5" "thick" in height, that means the bench for it needs to be approximately 20.5" high to duplicate the factory 36" table top height.

On the other hand, the Micro-Mark milling machine I plan to use as a drill press (see my milling machine posting) really needs a bench about 36" high to get ITS table height up to about 42". So, it seems to make sense to equip each of the saw and the milling machine with its own bench, and make each of the benches so that it also stores one of the other 2 remaining machines in my mini-shop, the belt/disc sander combo and the arbor press, within its base.

By the way, for those who care, the bolt pattern that fastens the SawStop Jobsite saw to its factory cart is 1/4" bolt size and about 22-3/4" to 23" front to back, and 23-3/4" to 24" side to side, which means the bench has to be at least about 25" deep and 26" wide, to allow for "Ron Paulk" 1/2" plywood sides and clearance for 1" metal washers to spread the load and to hold the rubber donuts that will help to reduce bench vibration when the saw is running.

Jim G