CBDesigner

This software will allow you to create the pattern and show you the materials list.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/11372

The materials list is really the thickness of the board x the number of strips needed to get the desired overall length + blade width x the number of strips.

You do not state what species of wood you can purchase locally.

Species commonly available are black walnut and hard maple.

If you are able to find purpleheart, this adds a nice colour contrast.

End grain boards are a lot of work. Also a good idea to check the calibation of the saw before you start cutting. I did not check, assuming my months-old calibration had not changed. Bad assumption.

In these boards a slight variation off 90deg for the blade tilt and it will soon become evident as you flip the strips for gluing.

Similar issues if the slab has any thickness variation from one end to the other. So if your planer has any snipe, it will add to your work.

 

My local store has a good selection of wood, so I can get just about anything available. and thanks for the link that program looks awesome.

 

Good, since wood price is very regional, then stop by the local store and find the prices.

Also after you make an end grain board, compare the time and materials to the first board you made which is face / side grain.

I have made dozens of boards, but only 1 end grain.

Mine are also gifts. My observation is that the recipients are happy with either face / side grain or end grain. They are most pleased with unusual woods, or unusual design.

These are two examples where the design is unusual. Both took less time than my one end grain board, and both were eagerly received.

 

A budget friendly wood is ash. Also do not put end grain in a planer very bad idea. Woodwhisper.com has a real nice video and sketch up on end grain boards with a link to a lumber supply for a kit to make the boards at a pretty decent price

 

do not put end grain in a planer very bad idea.

This is probably good general advice. However, with some care, experience, and preparation, it can work well. I've done it a number of times.

First, knives have to be very sharp. Cuts have to be small. The trailing edge needs special treatment to prevent excessive tearout.

 

For a finish I would highly suggest salad bowl finish I have used on many end grain boards and trays it looks great and food safe

 

Maple sounds like it would be a good choice for your project. I have also used jatoba.

 

I would plus 1 the wood whisperer vids, that is where I started.

I tried the salad bowl finish. It looks great when applied. As the board is used it gets blochey. It comes off where you cut stays in other places, etc. I use a mix 1 cup mineral oil, 2 tbsp bees wax. Heat till the wax dissolves. Then let it cool. Wipe it on let stand then buff. Repeat maybe once and if you like give some to the recipient.

 

The Salad Bowl Finish I'm familiar with is a Urethane surface finish, and I doubt it would stand up on a working cutting board.

It is much more common, especially on end grain cutting surfaces, to use a penetrating oil. It needs to be non toxic, of course, and something that won't go rancid. It does not have to be a drying oil.

Plain mineral oil fits that bill. End grain will soak up amazing amounts of it.