That part keeps the shaft from turning when you loosen the collet to change bits. Without a way to hold the shaft, you won't be able to change the bit.

When you depress the shaft lock button, the button engages one part of the ring, the other part engages the shaft.

 

Welcome here to this very friendly woodworking forum. As mentioned, that broken part is to lock the router bit shaft in place to remove or place the router bit. It is doubtful if Sears will supply a replacement part at a reasonable cost - if they have one. Could ask a small tool repair shop for a solution, or it may be more economical to just buy another new similar router, which also would have information as to how to use the router. Be safe.

 

If the collett has a way for you to hold it in place so you can tighten and loosen it, then your fine. Usually there is a double nut, so you can lock it by putting a wrench on the lower nut and turn the upper nut.

Its just more difficult getting 2 wrenches into that tight space that few would want to deal with that hassle for long.

 

Thank you! This is exactly the type of information I am/was looking for! I think because the shaft itself is "slotted" (the slot in the shaft is where the key in the broken nut fits into), I should be able to use a wrench of some sort to hold the shaft in place.

This router is indeed "double nutted" (there are two nuts that are NOT broken that I believe need to be loosened to remove the nut).

I think I'll remove the router from the table, which will give me a bit more room to get a second wrench in, and see if I can get the bit out and a new one in. If so, I might give it a shot (with the guard in place of course!).

Thanks again!

 

diuble nutted collet ...

double nuts?

Usually a router with a shaft lock will only have one nut on the collet. If this router is the exception, then you may not need the shaft lock portion and just use 2 wrenches to loosen the collet.
Part no. 26 is the shaft lock "nut"

router collet and nut:

collet only:

 

Yep, this router has piece #27 and #28 - two nuts that are still in place. It's part #26 that is broken.

So, assuming I can indeed find a way of loosening the bit and replacing it, considering #27 and #28 are still in place does this seem like it would be safe to use?

Thanks again!

 

this is what mine looks like

the 2nd nut actually secures the collet to the shaft to swap 1/4 and 1/2" collets.

Now if I needed to swap collets without the locking pin... I would be SOL.

 

Damn! Reading this I'm wondering if that's what the second nut is for? If you didn't have the locking pin on your router, but assuming you could use soem sort of wrench to change the bits, do you think it would be safe to use your router?

 

I see no reason to believe the tool is unsafe, as long as you can get adequate torque to tighten the bit.

 

I have the same router. There is a nut that holds your broken part on. You may be able to find something to use as a spacer that is the same thickness as the original broken part and space out the nut to the original position. You can then use the nut to hold the shaft from turning.

I would be a little concerned that the nut on the shaft will loosen over time using it to tighten and loosen the collet. Keep an eye on that.

 

bottom photo shows....

Starting at the end... a collet and nut, some threads, a thin nut, a copper colored sleeve with a detent and the end of the motor.

Sears refers to the part as a lock nut, which is NOT what I would be calling it. It is the sleeve which the lock bar recesses to retain the shaft from rotating. I look like it may have "flats" for a thin wrench, but not certain..

If it's the thin nut that is broken, that would be a safety issue in my opinion. That nut hold the armature to the motor end ...I assume.

I see in your photo where the lock bar would fall into the recess to hold the shaft from turning but I don't see the same thing in the earlier photos. I don't see a way to secure the shaft without the lock bar, the round shaft collar, and the retaining nut....


If the broken piece is the copper colored piece the lock bar recesses that will be a problem.

 

The collet, some threads, a lock nut, then the part that is broken (Sears calls this a "jam nut") on the OP's router, then the end of the motor.

I went ahead and took it off so it can be seen.

As the OP mentioned, the jam nut is threadless, there is a metal tab on the jam nut that slides into the slot in the shaft. The slots on the outside of the jam nut are engaged by the locking lever to keep the shaft from turning.

 

I have a 3 HP DeWalt that the same thing happened. I've still been using it for the past 3 years. I have to use 2 wrenches instead of one which is no big deal. I can still change back and forth from 1/4" to 1/2" collets without a problem.

 

Now we're talkin'

So what can be done to repair or replace the broken part? Any left over pieces from the original?

Someone with a metal lathe could make one, OR as suggested just jam a spacer against the bearing and hope it will not turn when trying to remove the collet nut. That's why there is a key in the broken part ... so it won't rotate.

 

I wonder if you could thread two nuts on the shaft and jamb them together tight. That would allow you to use a wrench under the collet to hold the shaft. The twin nuts would not loosen as easily as a single nut holding the spacer... just throwing out ideas now...

 

Dan3103 (and everybody else of course), seriously thank you SO much for taking the time to take photos!

Tomorrow morning I'll give it a shot without the lock nut and see what happens. I'll keep the shield down, and check after every pass or two to see if there is anything loosening or moving at all.

 

Shoe, you're welcome! Consider using double nuts if you aren't going to put in a spacer. If you don't, the nut below the collet won't be able to keep the shaft from turning when you try to remove the collet to change bits.

Good luck in getting it running!

 

Craftsman broken part #26

i LIKE MOST HAVE THE CRAFTSMAN ROUTER WITH A BROKEN PART NUMBER 26. i HAD 2 OF THEM WIRE EDM'D OUT AND PUT ONE IN MY ROUTER , IT SEEMS TO WORK JUST FINE. ITS NOT THE SAME MATERIAL AND OT SHAPED AROUND THE EDGES AS THE ORIGINAL BUT I DON'T THINK THAT MATTERS. iF ANYONE NEEDS ONE I WILL SELL MY SECOND ONE FOR $18.00 shipped to you. contact me at bazooka59@yahoo.com