Hi, I am posting this to see if anyone else has experience with the Harvey line of table saws. I recently purchased the Harvey 4HP 36 inch table saw. Overall I like it, its ok for the money but there are some things that bug me on it. The view finder is difficult to get an accurate measurement on it. The hi low fence is pretty useful but the thumb screws are hard to tighten and it still moves and hits the top. The overhead dust collection is not very affective, I know it's not gonna be perfect but there are a lot of 90 degrees and the 2 1/2 inch to 1 1/4 inch split make the dust collection less effective in my opinion. The table top is very ruff and poor machining. I bought it on sale for around 2700 which was the main reason for me buying it. I may be very picky but just figured I'd get this off my chest. Anyway, I will be selling it and buying one of these next options Sawstop ICS, Delta 5HP unisaw or the Jet 5HP. Your advice on what I should get would be appreciated.
Woodman77478
Have you contacted Harvey to resolve these issues? From what I've heard on You Tube from Stumpy Nubs their CS is pretty good.
I had a pair of side extensions on a new Powermatic 12" table saw that wouldn't mate to the table and the dealer replaced them no charge.
A rough ground table just doesn't seem like the kind of quality that Harvey would accept. Call them and see if they will make good.
If you are going to get a new saw, I'd consider Grizzly because all the machines I bought from them have been good quality and the surfaces are very well ground. Their CS is known for being first rate as well.
I had a pair of side extensions on a new Powermatic 12" table saw that wouldn't mate to the table and the dealer replaced them no charge.
A rough ground table just doesn't seem like the kind of quality that Harvey would accept. Call them and see if they will make good.
If you are going to get a new saw, I'd consider Grizzly because all the machines I bought from them have been good quality and the surfaces are very well ground. Their CS is known for being first rate as well.
Never heard of the brand. Looking at their website it appears the overhead dust control is just vented to the dust port for the cabinet of the saw. More vacuum pressure could be created by attaching it to a separate shop vacuum instead. I don't care for their fence at all. It just looks like an unnecessary gadget that would be more trouble than it's worth. I don't believe I've ever had a need for a low fence. If a person needed such a thing they could just make an L shaped piece of wood and clamp it to the fence. One thing you don't mention is the hole in the top to quickly remove the guard or riving knife. To me that is just a hole waiting for a knot or splinter on the wood to hang on. I think all machinery should be completely smooth on working surfaces. The top has a coating put on it which is suppose to prevent rust. A lot of us have problems in damp weather with the cast iron top of machinery rusting and the coating in theory would eliminate that. If they are not applying the coating properly then that could cause the roughness. I'm wondering how durable the coating is. Sliding wood over the top of the saw day after day is abrasive and could see the coating wearing off pretty quickly. Then it would quickly develops spots showing the cast iron and subject to rust. I have places on my shapers where wood is run in the same spot which have polished a line on the cast iron. Not being there it's difficult to say but the roughness of the top I think would soon smooth from use. I know a new machine you shouldn't have to fix but it gives you an option.
If you think you might send the saw back I wouldn't recommend Delta. I've used Delta my whole career and what they are making today falls far short of what you would expect from them. The arbor is so close to the side of the hole on your saw blades you nearly have to drive the blades on with a hammer. I've had to take a dremel tool with a grind stone on it and enlarge the arbor holes to keep from being aggravated. Then the extension table is wood, which is expected but they don't make any way to attach the extension to the saw. It's just suspended between the front and rear rails of the fence. The problem is over time the wood is sagging more and more to where it bows down in the middle making more than a sixteenth difference between the cast top and the extension. The miter gauge is pretty poor but it's the same poor design they have been using for decades. To set the angle the stops set against a loose floppy tab which folds up. There is no way you can get an accurate miter each time. I use a Craftsman miter gauge with my saw. Really the biggest issue with Delta is their attitude. Overnight if they decide to discontinue a machine they will clean out their parts warehouses to finish production of that tool. You could purchase a new machine and right out of the box parts would be unavailable.
If you think you might send the saw back I wouldn't recommend Delta. I've used Delta my whole career and what they are making today falls far short of what you would expect from them. The arbor is so close to the side of the hole on your saw blades you nearly have to drive the blades on with a hammer. I've had to take a dremel tool with a grind stone on it and enlarge the arbor holes to keep from being aggravated. Then the extension table is wood, which is expected but they don't make any way to attach the extension to the saw. It's just suspended between the front and rear rails of the fence. The problem is over time the wood is sagging more and more to where it bows down in the middle making more than a sixteenth difference between the cast top and the extension. The miter gauge is pretty poor but it's the same poor design they have been using for decades. To set the angle the stops set against a loose floppy tab which folds up. There is no way you can get an accurate miter each time. I use a Craftsman miter gauge with my saw. Really the biggest issue with Delta is their attitude. Overnight if they decide to discontinue a machine they will clean out their parts warehouses to finish production of that tool. You could purchase a new machine and right out of the box parts would be unavailable.
Sorry for your experience. Those things sound like inherent design flaws. My experience is it seems there’s always a few things that disappoint or annoy me, like the cheap plastic wheel on my jet drill press 🤨🤨.
Why do think you need a 5HP machine? That’s overkill for 95% of shops, even commercial. 😳
FWIW, I bought a SawStop PCS 3HP. The only thing I’m not totally satisfied with is the height adjustment gets stiff at the low point, that‘s very well an adjustment or cleaning issue, I’m just too lazy to look into it. There is also a little backlash, which can be adjusted out, but since access is limited on mine due to outfeed table, I’ve never done anything. No big deal tho.
One thing I will say about the SS is the glide fence system is freaking awesome. I adjusted mine even closer than recommended so there is zero racking.
So is the dust collection on the guard if you desire to use it.
Why do think you need a 5HP machine? That’s overkill for 95% of shops, even commercial. 😳
FWIW, I bought a SawStop PCS 3HP. The only thing I’m not totally satisfied with is the height adjustment gets stiff at the low point, that‘s very well an adjustment or cleaning issue, I’m just too lazy to look into it. There is also a little backlash, which can be adjusted out, but since access is limited on mine due to outfeed table, I’ve never done anything. No big deal tho.
One thing I will say about the SS is the glide fence system is freaking awesome. I adjusted mine even closer than recommended so there is zero racking.
So is the dust collection on the guard if you desire to use it.
Sawstop has its issues as well..
”That’s overkill for 95% of shops, even commercial. 😳”
Where did you get that?
”That’s overkill for 95% of shops, even commercial. 😳”
Where did you get that?
They have a narrow spot behind the Sawstop activator that can clog.,I noticed over the years the motor started getting hotter and hotter., At one point I wondered when ; it would quit.
When I looked at a close up, it didnt look like the viewer was magnified for the fence view. Maybe it is?
I have the Alpha 36 inch 4HP with the TiN coating. I agree with you about dust collection. It's adequate collection in the cabinet but not class leading. The collection at the overhead tube is worthless.
Quick tip for the fence. I use a few playing cards to hold the fence up while I secure the black knobs. My fence rides barely above the table top. The fence glides really easy, especially when I put a little motor oil on the rails.
I have no issues with the viewfinder. It's accurate for me, but I always confirm critical measurements with my metal ruler that's very accurate. I like that it is adjustable for a couple of millimeters, just loosen the red knob and calibrate it.
I hate the little black knob that secures the clean out door for the lower cabinet saw dust. It's tiny and my fingers can't get a good hold. I always feel I'll strip the threads.
The blade wrenches that come with it are cheap and mine bent really easily.
I don't like that the blade nut and blade washer are 2 separate parts. My cheap dewalt contractor saw had the blade nut and washer as one piece.
I love the accuracy of the saw. I check the key adjustments every time I start a session and things are exactly where they should be.
Overall I like it a lot and will stay with it as long as it's a good performer.
Quick tip for the fence. I use a few playing cards to hold the fence up while I secure the black knobs. My fence rides barely above the table top. The fence glides really easy, especially when I put a little motor oil on the rails.
I have no issues with the viewfinder. It's accurate for me, but I always confirm critical measurements with my metal ruler that's very accurate. I like that it is adjustable for a couple of millimeters, just loosen the red knob and calibrate it.
I hate the little black knob that secures the clean out door for the lower cabinet saw dust. It's tiny and my fingers can't get a good hold. I always feel I'll strip the threads.
The blade wrenches that come with it are cheap and mine bent really easily.
I don't like that the blade nut and blade washer are 2 separate parts. My cheap dewalt contractor saw had the blade nut and washer as one piece.
I love the accuracy of the saw. I check the key adjustments every time I start a session and things are exactly where they should be.
Overall I like it a lot and will stay with it as long as it's a good performer.
Steve Gass was on Woodnet in the early days. The arguments weren’t so much about the saw as its inventor., The Sawstop technology is needed in the working world. Hobby woodworker has a choice l but the professional doesn’t.. If the owner doesn’t take hold of this option, your at risk..
Many got banned from the forum because of the Sawstop arguments. Steve Gass stopped posting. I can’t blame him. A lot of nasty woodworkers out there.
Many got banned from the forum because of the Sawstop arguments. Steve Gass stopped posting. I can’t blame him. A lot of nasty woodworkers out there.
I had a 3HP Delta cabinet saw for over 25 years. Great saw, easy to operate and loved the fence. I sold it when we moved to a different state and now purchased an Alpha 4 HP with the Big Eye fencing system, similar to the Delta, but better. I really considered the the Saw Stop, but I did not like their fence. Laguna also uses a hi-lo fence, but their table tops are shorter, so that ruled them out. For me, I feel safer with the hi-lo fence and Harvey has come up with the best hi-lo fence system in the business. The dove tail trunnions on the Harvey 4 HP Alpha's are massive and accuracy is spot on. I don't believe the Saw Stop is a better table saw by itself. Saw Stop does feature the conduction brake cartridge, that will stop the blade instantly. I think Saw Stop is perfect where liability exists, just as schools and businesses where more than one employee has access to the table saw. I've been woodworking professionally for over 50 years, have all my fingers. Saw Stop will not stop stupidity and the cartridge trip if your using wet lumber, e.g., treated lumber, so you have to turn that feature off and your safety net is gone. I always operate with the blade guard down when ripping and with the hi-lo fence, you can see your fingers better when ripping thinner material. There's also something to be said about being careful and not working when you're tired. As far as fit and finish on the Harvey, it's excellent and as good as anything else out there. I also purchased the sliding table, (which Saw Stop, Grizzly and Shop Fox all use). In addition, I also got Harvey's Overhead Guard system because it's larger diameter dust collection will extrude more dust that will fit other table saws.
Have seen Harvey, but no experience. If I were in the market for a new saw there is not a chance in hell I would purchase a new one. Between the quality and cost it just does not make sense to me, not when there are so many old Unisaws and PM66's on Marketplace that need a new home.
By now, I’m sure you’ve made your decision. Just reading this for the first time I have some opinions too and maybe they will help someone else make up his/her mind in the future.
I spent about two years looking into table saws, reading reviews and deliberating my own decision. As a fledgling carpenter and builder, father of seven, and always looking in the sofa for extra cash, I really invested a lot of energy into this decision. I hadn’t known of the Harvey brand at first, but came across it several months prior to actually making my purchase. They seemingly have several “flash” sales each month and I sprung for one during one of these. My purchase was the smallest version, 2HP, with cast top. I also received their MG-36Pro miter gauge (retails for $450ish) and ordered their mobile stand (prior to the current Spider style they sell) and the extension table (which I have since replaced with a Baltic birch version after my friend Dan set his soft beer cooler on my Harvey MDF extension table, making it swell with pride like a 15yo knocking out pushups before hitting the beach). My price on all of it was $1650 plus shipping for $500.
I have used my Harvey since December 2023. So, after 15 months of using it nearly everyday, I’m fairly qualified to write my thoughts for anyone still reading.
Although I would have liked a 3HP saw or larger, I had used smaller 1.75 and 2HP table saws by Grizzly and SawStop a lot and I knew I could get work done with the power limitations. First note: I have ripped 100s of feet of two-inch kiln-dried hickory slab with both a Forrest Woodworker II (short pieces) and Freud Glue Line Rip blade. The ripping blade cuts a beautiful cut through the two-inch hickory wood on one pass, pleasantly surprising me. The WWII blade works harder, as it has more teeth and leaves burns. Same with hard maple. You can make the cut, but leave about 16th of an inch and remove it afterwards. Being someone who changes the blade often, I have found that using the right blade for the right task has made me forget I have a 2HP saw. I could never have done those cuts on a single pass with the aforementioned saws of similar size. I also have it wired for 220v, which is likely helpful where the others were running off 110v.
First, my cast top is flawless. In fact, I posted a quick reel on it on my instagram! My standard insert (saw came with a dado insert and you can purchase plastic zero-clearance inserts with a pre-made slot for the riving knife from Harvey) is aluminum, well-made and I like the design. However, The four smaller set screws will move a smidgeon as the saw is used and I have to check it about every hour of use with a straight edge. I make the adjustment because I keep the hex key handy and keep going. Spoiler alert, this is my second least favorite thing about the Harvey saw. In fact, I found this forum looking for someone who may have posted a tip about this! Anyone??
Ok, so that annoyance is that, an annoyance. It literally takes me 20 seconds to check periodically and I wouldn’t trade that for a plastic insert. This is a great machine! The front of the blade, when fully extended, sits nearly two feet back from the front of the table (it’s probably about 20inches, but I haven’t measured) . I can’t express how much I have grown to love the huge surface on this saw, so I won’t. Just know it’s awesome.
I have the standard fence. At first, like one of the reviewers mentioned (from looking at the website) I thought I wouldn’t need the low fence (veneer fence). I honestly use it the most now. I absolutely love this feature. As a bonus, It becomes a tray for rules, marking knives and too many tools that end up getting in the way. I adjusted my fence twice. The weekend I unpacked it and recently, in February, 14 months later. And it wasn’t really out. I simply felt a little play during adjustment I wanted to fine tune. My fence glides over the surface and the front of my extension table with less room than a business card underneath it. I haven’t oiled my rails at all. I love the fence. Plus, I can extend it forward so it sticks out in front of the saw and, being careful, use it as a quick jointer because of this feature (I still put the stock on my 8” South Bend jointer afterwords, for all you gasping, but that initial almost-straight line only takes seconds on the table saw and one doesn’t need a long sled with the moving fence). Bottom line here: The Harvey fence system is the Bees Knees and I look forward to trying their Big Eye version in the future.
OK, I owe it to you to tell you my least favorite thing on the saw. That is definitely the stop nut on the 90d bevel stop. One has to open the compartment on the bevel-knob side and get hex key into a set screw he can’t see in a place hands don’t fit. If you have received salvation, you will lose it during this process. Bring holy water, the Bible and whiskey. You will need it. The silver lining here is this: I set it over a year ago and it’s still dead-nuts. I check the blade with a magnetic level against the fence everytime I bring the blade back to 90d. It hasn’t moved and it’s spot on. I should also note the knobs are chromed cast iron. They’re heavy and wonderful. Harvey really does put quality parts on their products.
The MG-36Pro miter gauge is breathtakingly beautiful. It’s also not very useful for large pieces. The tail end of it will drag under the weight/friction of long pieces and it’s just enough to lose the precision we often need. Make or buy a sled. It’s better. I still use the MG-36Pro but only when I know it’ll be right. When is that? Well, let’s say my sled has less dust on it.
The mobile base is not worth the price. In fact, I dislike it. They have a new Spider mobile base that appears to be better but I haven’t tried it.
I’m hooked, y’all. I’ve been so pleasantly surprised by this two-horse machine and I have zero buyer’s remorse. Because I like to buy tools, I will probably get a bigger, badder saw one day. But it won’t be out of need. P. S. South Bend has caught my eye but I have zero real issues (now that the 90d is set) with my Harvey. I’m very happy with my choice.
I spent about two years looking into table saws, reading reviews and deliberating my own decision. As a fledgling carpenter and builder, father of seven, and always looking in the sofa for extra cash, I really invested a lot of energy into this decision. I hadn’t known of the Harvey brand at first, but came across it several months prior to actually making my purchase. They seemingly have several “flash” sales each month and I sprung for one during one of these. My purchase was the smallest version, 2HP, with cast top. I also received their MG-36Pro miter gauge (retails for $450ish) and ordered their mobile stand (prior to the current Spider style they sell) and the extension table (which I have since replaced with a Baltic birch version after my friend Dan set his soft beer cooler on my Harvey MDF extension table, making it swell with pride like a 15yo knocking out pushups before hitting the beach). My price on all of it was $1650 plus shipping for $500.
I have used my Harvey since December 2023. So, after 15 months of using it nearly everyday, I’m fairly qualified to write my thoughts for anyone still reading.
Although I would have liked a 3HP saw or larger, I had used smaller 1.75 and 2HP table saws by Grizzly and SawStop a lot and I knew I could get work done with the power limitations. First note: I have ripped 100s of feet of two-inch kiln-dried hickory slab with both a Forrest Woodworker II (short pieces) and Freud Glue Line Rip blade. The ripping blade cuts a beautiful cut through the two-inch hickory wood on one pass, pleasantly surprising me. The WWII blade works harder, as it has more teeth and leaves burns. Same with hard maple. You can make the cut, but leave about 16th of an inch and remove it afterwards. Being someone who changes the blade often, I have found that using the right blade for the right task has made me forget I have a 2HP saw. I could never have done those cuts on a single pass with the aforementioned saws of similar size. I also have it wired for 220v, which is likely helpful where the others were running off 110v.
First, my cast top is flawless. In fact, I posted a quick reel on it on my instagram! My standard insert (saw came with a dado insert and you can purchase plastic zero-clearance inserts with a pre-made slot for the riving knife from Harvey) is aluminum, well-made and I like the design. However, The four smaller set screws will move a smidgeon as the saw is used and I have to check it about every hour of use with a straight edge. I make the adjustment because I keep the hex key handy and keep going. Spoiler alert, this is my second least favorite thing about the Harvey saw. In fact, I found this forum looking for someone who may have posted a tip about this! Anyone??
Ok, so that annoyance is that, an annoyance. It literally takes me 20 seconds to check periodically and I wouldn’t trade that for a plastic insert. This is a great machine! The front of the blade, when fully extended, sits nearly two feet back from the front of the table (it’s probably about 20inches, but I haven’t measured) . I can’t express how much I have grown to love the huge surface on this saw, so I won’t. Just know it’s awesome.
I have the standard fence. At first, like one of the reviewers mentioned (from looking at the website) I thought I wouldn’t need the low fence (veneer fence). I honestly use it the most now. I absolutely love this feature. As a bonus, It becomes a tray for rules, marking knives and too many tools that end up getting in the way. I adjusted my fence twice. The weekend I unpacked it and recently, in February, 14 months later. And it wasn’t really out. I simply felt a little play during adjustment I wanted to fine tune. My fence glides over the surface and the front of my extension table with less room than a business card underneath it. I haven’t oiled my rails at all. I love the fence. Plus, I can extend it forward so it sticks out in front of the saw and, being careful, use it as a quick jointer because of this feature (I still put the stock on my 8” South Bend jointer afterwords, for all you gasping, but that initial almost-straight line only takes seconds on the table saw and one doesn’t need a long sled with the moving fence). Bottom line here: The Harvey fence system is the Bees Knees and I look forward to trying their Big Eye version in the future.
OK, I owe it to you to tell you my least favorite thing on the saw. That is definitely the stop nut on the 90d bevel stop. One has to open the compartment on the bevel-knob side and get hex key into a set screw he can’t see in a place hands don’t fit. If you have received salvation, you will lose it during this process. Bring holy water, the Bible and whiskey. You will need it. The silver lining here is this: I set it over a year ago and it’s still dead-nuts. I check the blade with a magnetic level against the fence everytime I bring the blade back to 90d. It hasn’t moved and it’s spot on. I should also note the knobs are chromed cast iron. They’re heavy and wonderful. Harvey really does put quality parts on their products.
The MG-36Pro miter gauge is breathtakingly beautiful. It’s also not very useful for large pieces. The tail end of it will drag under the weight/friction of long pieces and it’s just enough to lose the precision we often need. Make or buy a sled. It’s better. I still use the MG-36Pro but only when I know it’ll be right. When is that? Well, let’s say my sled has less dust on it.
The mobile base is not worth the price. In fact, I dislike it. They have a new Spider mobile base that appears to be better but I haven’t tried it.
I’m hooked, y’all. I’ve been so pleasantly surprised by this two-horse machine and I have zero buyer’s remorse. Because I like to buy tools, I will probably get a bigger, badder saw one day. But it won’t be out of need. P. S. South Bend has caught my eye but I have zero real issues (now that the 90d is set) with my Harvey. I’m very happy with my choice.
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