For a cutting board seems like it should be plenty strong. I wouldn't want to try it for a critical part of a chair etc.

If you pause a video you can take a screen shot (Print Scree) and post it here, after going through Paint etc.

 

Most of the 3D cutting boards I've seen are end grain cutting boards, so that means the glued faces are edge/face grain and that should be pretty strong.

David

 

Yup, I've done it a lot, haven't had a board returned yet. These are not cutting boards though, they are cheese boards.

 

I was looking on Youtube at some 3D cutting boards. They start out by gluing up strips of wood side by side - the normal long grain to long grain and that is all well and good. Then they cut the whole thing up completely across the grain at lets say 45* in some cases. Then they rearrange the newly cut pieces and re-glue these sections together with the more or less end grain to end grain (the 45* cuts).
When they are done, the new cutting board along the length is just a bunch of sections of end grain to end grain.
In other cases, they add decorative steep angled curves in their design, ending up with pretty much end grain ant 90* to thin decorative strips on the long grain sections.
I dont have the ambition or time right now to make one or 2 like that just to test it to destruction.
Is Tight-bond now that good at end grain to end grain gluing?

Titebond is fine, but when gluing end grain I always size the wood first. I apply a thin layer of glue on the nd grain and let it dry, soaking in and sealing the end grain. When dry, glue up as normal. It is ok to knock down the raised grain with a bit of 220 as long as you do not sand the sizing out. I know a lot of guys use Titebond cut 50/50 with water to do their sizing.

 

Because of end grains tendency to "wick" glue I will apply it liberally, then come back and add more if needed. I've never allowed the glue to dry though.

 

So you can teach an old dog new tricks.
Thanks guys

 

TonyB, I'd answer your question by saying "no", but....... In the context of general woodworking its common knowledge endgrain glueing is the weakest bond there is. The more porous the grain, the weaker it will be.

That said, holding a cutting board together (for how long who knows? Soak it overnight in water and lets find out), but you certainly wouldn't attach an apron to a leg with a butt joint.

Always respectful of other's experience, only intending to counter any impressions someone might get from watching the video & responses.

Now, if it were me making that cutting board, I'd be using epoxy, but what do I know