[robin danger]

Ok so just to make sure I understand, I could theoretically go from the plug and strait into my contactor (contactor = switch?) and then from the contactor strait to the motor? For this to work I think I would need to add a wire so that there are 4 wires going to the switch, a hot and neutral going to the line side of the switch from the wall and the same coming from the load side which would connect to the motor. This would bypass all of the other components in the control box.

Am understanding this correctly?

 

[weepee]

Ok so just to make sure I understand, I could theoretically go from the plug and strait into my contactor (contactor = switch?) and then from the contactor strait to the motor? For this to work I think I would need to add a wire so that there are 4 wires going to the switch, a hot and neutral going to the line side of the switch from the wall and the same coming from the load side which would connect to the motor. This would bypass all of the other components in the control box.

Am understanding this correctly?

you know what I would do if you’re going the paddle switch route? Find the leads to the motor. connect the two leads to load side of the paddle switch. Connect the line wires to the input terminals of the paddle switch Disconnect all the other wiring so none of the original will get energized.You only need three wires. One is ground. (120 or 240 are wired the same). Hi/LO voltage connection is made at the motor but you shouldn’t need to worry about that.

 

[weepee]

Ok so just to make sure I understand, I could theoretically go from the plug and strait into my contactor (contactor = switch?) and then from the contactor strait to the motor? For this to work I think I would need to add a wire so that there are 4 wires going to the switch, a hot and neutral going to the line side of the switch from the wall and the same coming from the load side which would connect to the motor. This would bypass all of the other components in the control box.

Am understanding this correctly?

yes

 

[weepee]

you know what I would do if you’re going the paddle switch route? Find the leads to the motor. connect the two leads to load side of the paddle switch. Connect the line wires to the input terminals of the paddle switch Disconnect all the other wiring so none of the original will get energized.You only need three wires. One is ground. (120 or 240 are wired the same). Hi/LO voltage connection is made at the motor but you shouldn’t need to worry about that.

When I say three wires that’s two wires for power and one ground. Into the switch and same out to the motor.

 

[robin danger]

you know what I would do if you’re going the paddle switch route? Find the leads to the motor. connect the two leads to load side of the paddle switch. Connect the line wires to the input terminals of the paddle switch Disconnect all the other wiring so none of the original will get energized.You only need three wires. One is ground. (120 or 240 are wired the same). Hi/LO voltage connection is made at the motor but you shouldn’t need to worry about that.

Ahhhh yes, that makes sense.

Should I be worried that the fuse is no longer in the picture?

 

[_Ogre]

is there a jumper between the 2 center contacts, like shown in the 4th switch pic? RED ARROW
if that the case then either the red or the white wire should be dropped to the bottom contact
which wire to drop still needs to be determined

edit: move the red wire to the bottom screw, turn the switch over and it will be wired the same as the switch in the 4th pic in post 1. original style replacement switch will cost over $100. for testing purposes you can throw a wall switch between the red and white wires. you could leave it this way and the motor will still have the same protection of the original switch. the only difference will be that the saw will restart on it's own after a power failure. but the same thing would happen with the paddle switch

 

[robin danger]

is there a jumper between the 2 center contacts, like shown in the 4th switch pic? RED ARROW
if that the case then either the red or the white wire should be dropped to the bottom contact

Yes, exactly, there is a jumper at that location. Does it matter which wire between the white and red gets moved?

Right now I'm considering two options, the first is to install a magnetic paddle switch that I already have and bypass all of the other electronics, per the discussion on this thread so far. The second is to re-wire the control box back to the original specification, as it seems to be very much not that at present, and to install a simple on/off switch like this: POWERTEC 71008 110/220V Single Phase On/Off Switch. If I go with option two, would I add a jumper between two legs of the line and load terminals, like the in the sketch below?

I'm also curious to know which of the two options you would do. Appreciate the feedback!

 

[weepee]

Ahhhh yes, that makes sense.

Should I be worried that the fuse is no longer in the picture?

No that fuse is for the control circuit. You can read the size if you like but it wont be very large. 5 amps maybe

 

[weepee]

Yes, exactly, there is a jumper at that location. Does it matter which wire between the white and red gets moved?

Right now I'm considering two options, the first is to install a magnetic paddle switch that I already have and bypass all of the other electronics, per the discussion on this thread so far. The second is to re-wire the control box back to the original specification, as it seems to be very much not that at present, and to install a simple on/off switch like this: POWERTEC 71008 110/220V Single Phase On/Off Switch. If I go with option two, would I add a jumper between two legs of the line and load terminals, like the in the sketch below?
View attachment 457617

I'm also curious to know which of the two options you would do. Appreciate the feedback!

No jumper required. It’s a two pole single throw.

 

[weepee]

Yes, exactly, there is a jumper at that location. Does it matter which wire between the white and red gets moved?

Right now I'm considering two options, the first is to install a magnetic paddle switch that I already have and bypass all of the other electronics, per the discussion on this thread so far. The second is to re-wire the control box back to the original specification, as it seems to be very much not that at present, and to install a simple on/off switch like this: POWERTEC 71008 110/220V Single Phase On/Off Switch. If I go with option two, would I add a jumper between two legs of the line and load terminals, like the in the sketch below?
View attachment 457617

I'm also curious to know which of the two options you would do. Appreciate the feedback!

I stated earlier I would go original for the reasons given. But I’m an electrician/ technician by trade (Retired). Going back would require more study. I don’t know what those two Mar connected wires are used for. I’m fairly certain about the red/white wires on the push buttons. It’s always more difficult when giving advice long distance over the internet. The simple and fool proof method would be abandoning the old wiring entirely and using a paddle switch or the one linked.

 

[_Ogre]

Yes, exactly, there is a jumper at that location. Does it matter which wire between the white and red gets moved?

if you read my edit the red wire would drop to the bottom. the jumper that is on the switch energizes both sides of the original switch. if you can find an original style switch, that would be the easy thing to do

the magnetic single gang start/stop switches are only rated 16 amps, your 3hp motor is probably over that. the other paddle switch you linked to will work, but it will work just like a $2 wall switch.

these might fit inside your box on the saw. these will wire just like the original switches
buy a blank cover, drill 2 hole, done and only $14
https://www.amazon.com/APIELE-Momentary-Button-Switch-XB2-11BN-G/dp/B088PR2J71

 

[weepee]

is there a jumper between the 2 center contacts, like shown in the 4th switch pic? RED ARROW
if that the case then either the red or the white wire should be dropped to the bottom contact
which wire to drop still needs to be determined

Yes must confirm which wire red or white, needs to be moved.

I’m not sure about placing an off/on switch on the red and white wires. If that switch is left on the machine will restart after a power failure. What protection are you considering? The other thing I’m thinking are those MAR connected wires. Robin says they go to the motor itself. Overload or temp cut out inside the motor?


View attachment 457613

 

[weepee]

only

Somehow that posting got messed up lol

 

[_Ogre]

Yes must confirm which wire red or white, needs to be moved.

I’m not sure about placing an off/on switch on the red and white wires. If that switch is left on the machine will restart after a power failure. What protection are you considering? The other thing I’m thinking are those MAR connected wires. Robin says they go to the motor itself. Overload or temp cut out inside the motor?

as stated in two separate posts, the red wire moves to the bottom screw.

as for restart after a power failure, the paddle switch will do the same. it is on/off, i have one on my bandsaw
the single gang magnetic switch is only 16 amps, i have one on my router table

magnetic switch powertech

powertech paddle switch link posted above. surprisingly hard to turn on

Overload or temp cut out inside the motor?

standard reset/overload on the lower left hand side of the control box
i just noticed that everything is currently bypassed, plug in for ON 😂

 

[_Ogre]

smack me upside the head!!! i'll admit when i am wrong...
if you wire a single pole switch into the current wiring, it will wire between the black and the red wire.
follow the red wire from the middle of the fuse on the transformer down, it goes to the black wire
not that it would short out of blow the fuse as the red wire and white wire go to the same thing

MY BAD!!!

 

[weepee]

It’s somewhat difficult to follow the wires in the picture. It appears two red go up to the seal in contact on the starter There’s also an overload contact in the lower left corner. I’m inclined to go along with the black, white, red from the terminal block to the start/stop switch as I noted early on. Red moves down to the presently unused terminal.

 

[Rebelwork]

..

 

[weepee]

That looks like the start/stop station the OP was considering using to replace broken unit.

 

[weepee]

This is the circuit as it should be. Black on left. White on Center (with the jumper) Red on right side. The red in his circuit has been moved to the center.

the motor will run as soon as power is applied. It will stop the moment the stop button is pressed but will restart instantly the stop button is released.

The contactor contact is the seal in (normal wiring). Suspect the red wires at the terminal block go up to the relay. From there they could go down to the overload at bottom left corner. The marrette connectors could be wires going into the motor for temperature cutout. Not shown here but likely to the right of the coil. X1 of the transformer secondary would be on the left in the drawing and X2 would be on far right

 

[Rebelwork]

This is the actual switch on a 34-802