If you are going to use shellac be sure to use a de-waxed shellac. It will cause adhesion problems with the poly. If you are not going to be staining the cabinet you probably should use a water based poly. Oil based varnishes tend to yellow with age and doesn't look very good on light wood.

If you have compressed air you might consider getting a cheap sprayer and spray the finish. In one afternoon you could seal the wood with a vinyl sealer and topcoat it with 2 coats of pre-catalyzed lacquer and be done. If you want a harder more durable finish you could use a conversion varnish instead of the lacquer.

 

I’d use Waterlox. Easy to apply, it will really pop the grain in cherry and it’s highly water resistant (as the name implies).

For the first two coats, flood the surface, let it soak in, then wipe off the excess. Apply thin subsequent coats with a good brush until you get the gloss you want.

 

Hi all just joined the forum. I am building a vanity out of solid cherry except for the top which will have a vessel sink on it. The top will be cherry plywood. I have used tung oil and danish oil in the past but need something that dries faster and will offer protection from water. I was thinking of a coat of shellac and then a wipe on poly. I am good at building things but not too great at finishing so I try to stick to simple finishes. I do want the wood to darken naturally so don't want to use stain. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Welcome to the forum.


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I don’t think a wipe on is the best. I agree on Waterlox, in fact they make exterior or marine versions.

A marine varnish is another option. Many are brushable. I’ve used Total Boat Gleam and really like it. Use the brushing thinner. You would need an exhaust fan.

I’d probably go with the Waterlox mainly b/c cherry does so well with oil. The only down side is you’ll need several coats and the process will be a bit time consuming.

 

So I looked at the waterlox. The site says to buy the sealer/ semi gloss finish and then the final 2 coats to use the satin finish. I do want a satin finish but do I really have to buy 2 different products? I admit I am a little nervous about having a wood top for a vanity but I wanted it to look like an old wash stand that was used before the time of indoor plumbing. The attached picture is similar to what I am building. It won't have the drawers though just 2 small raised panel doors to access the plumbing.

 

Personally I would do it. You don't have to, but putting on a few coats of gloss under the satin creates a look with more depth.

I'd be looking into the urethane or marine product for what you're doing.

Test it out on scrap first!! Waterlox will let you buy samples.

 

Without the sealer you may have to put an extra coat or two of waterlox is all.

 

What Steve said. I use the product called original and as I said I flood on the first two coats to saturate the pores, then wipe off the excess.
Subsequent coats applied with a brush gradually build gloss. Once I get, I stop. Actually, once I get the sheen I like, I do just one extra coat as it tends to lose a little bit of sheen once it fully cures.

 

Halcyon? Marine varnish

 

I just got a reply from waterlox. They gave me 2 choices. 2 coats of sealer/finish for an amber look and 2 coats of their urethane finish. Or just use the urethane finish. They said since the top could be exposed to soaps and other chemicals a urethane is the best protection. I ordered their urethane finish and the sealer/finish so I can experiment to see what I like best. Thanks for all the replies.

 

Finishing a Cherry vanity for a bathroom can be a fun project. I'd go with a clear coat finish if you’re aiming for that natural wood look. It’ll let the cherry’s beautiful grain shine through and give it a warm, inviting feel.

You could start with good sanding to smooth the surface, then apply a few coats of a high-quality clear finish like polyurethane. Let each coat dry thoroughly before lightly sanding and using the next.

This method works great, and you’ll love the result! Also, don’t forget to choose the suitable Bathroom Taps that complement the vanity’s style. It’s all about getting that perfect blend of function and beauty.

 

My preferred method for cherry is to use tinted shellac. This will even out the color tones if you’ve go got random boards, or many times the cherry is salmon or very light color. I use NGR dye (Solar-Luxe) and Sealcoat.

Oil does well on cherry, alone with wax, or with a top coat. I’ve used Arm R Seal over shellac with good results, however I’m not sure about a vanity. Waterlox would be OK choice, however you have to see what your wood color is and go accordingly. ‘ve started using lacquer and I‘m pretty sold on it.

Info about the tinted cherry product:

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/identifying-wood-cherry-vs-wood-that-is-stained-like-cherry.232316/?post_id=2239937#post-2239937

Vanity project:

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/cherry-vanity-reface-part-1.236005/?post_id=2286057#post-2286057

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/cherry-vanity-reface-2-final-dyeing.236043/?post_id=2286405#post-2286405

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/vanity-reface-complete.236534/?post_id=2293028#post-2293028

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/medicine-cabinets-finally-done.236974/?post_id=2298077#post-2298077

 

You might consider Waterlox:

 

He’s already got the Waterloox ordered. I would only caution the OP that Waterlox won’t do much for color on cherry. You also have tonconsider the expense and the labor + time involved. Not a big deal, but you’re usually looking at 3 coats, sanding between & a minimum of 24 hours b/t coats. Then it needs to be rubbed out. If there are frame and panel doors this isn’t a fun job. RE: color I guess it could be applied over a dye or tinted shellac. I don’t know what his wood looks like, if it even needs to be color matched.

IMO I agree with Steve it would be worth buying a spray set up. There are some airless electric sprayers that can do a decent job.

It would help to see the doors and the raw wood, are the panels solid wood, have the doors been built yet, etc?