use a japenese pull saw and a wood miter box:

Wooden mitre box - - Amazon.com

Wooden mitre box - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

and a wood miter box

Thank you for your advice. I already have a miter box. I see that it is useful only for the crosscuts. My basic issue is the long cuts - along the grain.
For Jap. saw what do you suggest? I have a kataba 240 blade crosscut but it does not work fast along the grain.

 

Dragoslav, welcome to the forum - I see by your flag that you are in Greece.
we welcome members here from all over the world.

it may help if you describe your project a little and how the wood will be used.
we like to see drawings, sketches and photos for the most accurate responses.
I hope you can share photos of your project with us when you get it started.

 

Dragoslav, welcome to the forum - I see by your flag that you are in Greece.
we welcome members here from all over the world.

Greetings from Europe and congratulation for your efforts in this forum.

Stock size is 13/16 inch by 13/16 inch and you need to rip it down to ( 9/32 by 9/32 inch ) ( 5/16 by 5/16 inch ) and (7/16 by 7/16 inch ) before cutting to a length of 19 11/16 inches.

Your question is ; What tool will help me rip down my stock to the desired sizes?

You are right. Excuse me for not mentioning the sizes in inches and thank you for your time retyping my question.

 

To better understand the situation for those that use inch measurements;
Stock size is 13/16 inch by 1- 3/16 inch and you need to rip it down to ( 9/32 by 9/32 inch ) ( 5/16 by 5/16 inch ) and (7/16 by 7/16 inch ) before cutting to a length of 19 11/16 inches.

Your question is ; What tool will help me rip down my stock to the desired sizes?

No, I do not see how a miter box will help you rip down your stock to the desired dimensions. It will of course aid you when cutting to length.

 

If you don't necessarily want to cut them by hand (and because you mentioned a table saw in your first post I would think you don't) you can consider using a beam saw. You'll have much more waste than sawing by hand, but it would be much faster and doesn't take as much space as a table or band saw.

EDIT: I'm not sure beam saw is what I intended. I meant the circular saw that is usually used handheld. There are some with thin discs that might work for your needs.

 

PROXXON Table Saw FET, 37070, Green - Power Table Saws - Amazon.com

PROXXON Table Saw FET, 37070, Green - Power Table Saws - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

I have their precision drill press, and love it. Bit on the expensive side, but if the saw is as good as the drill press, worth it.

 

Yeah, at $812.00..... "a bit expensive" I'll say....

Here's an interesting saw for less money and it has great capacity:

Amazon.com: SKILSAW SPT99-11 10 Inch Heavy Duty Worm Drive Table Saw with Stand, Silver : Everything Else

Amazon.com: SKILSAW SPT99-11 10 Inch Heavy Duty Worm Drive Table Saw with Stand, Silver : Everything Else

www.amazon.com

 

 

A good sharp hand plane should be able to quickly remove the 1/4" needed as long as you pay close attention to how much you're cutting off with each stroke of the plane.. It's easy to take too much off one end or the other, but you can learn to control that with time..

 

Thank you for your advices. The proxxon fet - table saw costs around 400 euros here (means 408$). As
woodnthings said, a frame saw seems a better solution for me. Low cost, accurate, fast, and safer.

 

What about something like this? This is just an example of what's available on Amazon. I have something like this that I bought at an estate sale just to have around the shop on display. But for cutting small pieces it may work fine.
Mike Hawkins

 

Something no one has brought up yet is this: What wood are you cutting (plywood?) and how thick is it?

If you want fast, I have often used my jigsaw in the upside down position and held between my legs from a sitting position. This way you can see the blade and move the workpiece past the blade.

If you have enough material to cut, then it might be worth it to make a “top” for the jigsaw: Start with a .5m x .5m thin piece of Masonite or birch plywood, then make a single jigsaw cut about 50% across the "table,” then use double-stick carpet tape to bond the tabletop to the bottom of the jigsaw.

You can either hold this between your thighs or secure it across the top of a box that is just large enough to comfortably contain the upside down jigsaw.

the jigsaw method can yield very straight lines if its a good saw (Swiss Bosch or Festool), but these should all be rough cuts that you plan on planing down to perfection.

 

If you want fast, I have often used my jigsaw in the upside down position and held between my legs from a sitting position.

That sounds pretty unsafe to me!

 

I see miniature table saws for sale on Amazon.com for under $100.00 USD. The maximum depth of cut is 15mm for the model I looked at. By cutting on both sides you would have a maximum cut of nearly 30mm. There are many models available, most using 4” blades, so that maximum depth should not vary much. I would note that I have never personally used or seen one of these saws. I always assumed they were for building doll house and scale models.

 

Something no one has brought up yet is this: What wood are you cutting (plywood?) and how thick is it?

The OP provided that information in his opening post. (pine) (20mm thick, 30mm width, 500mm length)

 

Have you played with the orbital setting on the Bosch? I think the #1 setting is non orbital and will cut slower and smoother. The #3 setting is very aggressive and will leave a more ragged surface.

 

I think the #1 setting is non orbital and will cut slower and smoother. The #3 setting is very aggressive and will leave a more ragged surface

I will definetly give another chance to the jigsaw. I bought yesterday some very thin blades especially for softwood. I will have to set up a guide which is not difficult.

 

A circular saw with a Kreg rip guide might work. It is capable of smooth cuts (with a decent blade. A very useful tool to have. Skil makes one for under $50.00 on Amazon.com.

 

With any sawing, the cut quality will improve if one first scores the actual cut line with a utility knife. It is also good practice to first put down painters tape, as that helps control the splintering.

with the Bosch jigsaw, I use the Xtra-clean blades, zero chopping action, the zero-clearance blade shield, AND I practice first on scrap wood to find the right blade speed.

that said, no matter which saw and/or blade you use, a quality finished product will require you to sand or plane the cuts to a smooth finish — there is no solution that will give you a finished surface straight away from the final sizing cut. Yes, you have work ahead of you.

 

Also consider the feed rate. Let the blade determine the feed rate. Avoid pushing hard (that applies ta any type of saw). A dull blade and over aggressive feed will yield less that optimal results.

 

Also note that modern premium blades often have ground blades, rather than milled blades. The milled blades have teeth that are offset alternately to the right and the left. This helps prevent binding and burning of the cut. The ground teeth are all in line and offer a better, smoother cut. You do have to watch your feed rates. Too slow will burn the wood and too fast will too. You have to hit the sweet spot where the blade is cutting without too much "push".