[solo1001]

I bought a micro jig splitter to go with my new-to-me Rigid 2424 but the factory insert wouldn't do. I ordered a new insert and when I installed my new marples blade to cut the slot, the blade would not spin (too high with the uncut insert). I put an old blade on to cut the slot which was a bad move. The thing just started burning up the insert but it got the slot started. I reinstalled the marples and cut through the insert and wood holding it down but there's a gap. Is this dangerous to use now and should I order a new insert or is this no big deal? I might or might not get the hang of this one day.

 

[ryan50hrl]

I wouldn't say it's dangerous...it's just not a zci for the whole length. Rather than buying another....do you have a router table? Why not make a few for yourself?? I've made all of mine and couldn't be happier, they end up costing me less than 1.00 a piece.

 

[bladeburner]

Your 'old' blade was probably a thin cut and your new blade is a full kerf (3/32" vs 1/8"), unless the new blade is not fully against the arbor flange. Another thing you may notice over time is that some blades make a wider kerf than others, due to the teeth set. (ATB vs FTG)

I also make my own (6-8 at a time) and I use one of my outside dado blades for the initial kerf on my 10" sets. Dado and molding head inserts are made with the setup to be used.

 

[GeorgeC]

I would use that insert without any worries.

George

 

[solo1001]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I have a router but no router table at this point but making my own insert is a long term goal. I don't have the skills today but maybe soon.

 

[ryan50hrl]

making your own table saw inserts is one of the easiest things you can do.....especially for a saw like yours with a thick insert. A router table does make it considerably easier, but not out of the realm of possibility without one. If it were me....I'd save the 30 bucks or so a insert cost you and put it towards a cheap router table. Craigslist often has router tables in the 30-50 dollar range.