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eh to all. i'm looking for some plans to biuld a moveable wood working bench. looking at some pics on the net, they look quite thick. i do have a bunch of old growth hemlock 6x6 i could use. any help would be great.

cheers lumberjack
 

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johnep
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The more solid your top the greayer the stability due to inertia, great help when hammering or chiseling.
johnep
 

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Built a "temporary" workbench of douglas fir about 20 years ago, I'm still using it. I made a quick vise of 3/4" pipe clamps, I still use it for clamping odd shaped pieces. Learned to use the jack plane, winding sticks, and smoothing plane flattening the top. If you want to make it mobile, I suggest casters with cam-type lifts so you can set it solidly on the floor for working. It's probably not possible to make a workbench too heavy. There's a lot to be learned by building your own bench, a very satisfying project.
 

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Built a "temporary" workbench of douglas fir about 20 years ago, I'm still using it. I made a quick vise of 3/4" pipe clamps, I still use it for clamping odd shaped pieces. Learned to use the jack plane, winding sticks, and smoothing plane flattening the top. If you want to make it mobile, I suggest casters with cam-type lifts so you can set it solidly on the floor for working. It's probably not possible to make a workbench too heavy. There's a lot to be learned by building your own bench, a very satisfying project.
personaly i used 4no reclaimed scafolding plancke and put them on (lockable) casters. you cant get better.:thumbup:sorry about the spelling
 

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Lockable casters are ok, but when I chop dovetails I position my work directly over the 4x4 leg of my bench. that way, the shock of the mallet is transfered to the floor with each blow. I can feel the difference if I'm even 6" away from the leg. I prefer the 4" square leg to be on the solid floor rather than the relatively small footprint of the caster. Love your creative spelling, adds character to the message.
 
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