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Discussion Starter #1
+But my pockets became $40 lighter while inducing it to follow me. Then when I got it home, it exploded all over my garage floor.

Question - in the third picture would I be risking the restoration gods wrath if I used a hex nut instead of the original square nut? Where it's located is difficult to turn.

Oh well, off to the electrolysis bath for it. Probably lose the decal, have to attempt to make a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Couple more pics: The belt tightening and tracking mechanism seems in real good shape.:thumbsup:
 

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where's my table saw?
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decal? just unscrew that one...

It's got the slotted screws. Must mean it comes off. :blink:

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Decided the base didn't need any electrolysis, just a liberal application of a wire brush followed by 220 grit sand paper. Then Rustoleum primer, and a top coat of Rustoleum red. The red was a little bright to my liking, but it's what I had, so.....

This thing must have set in someone's attic for the last 50 years. The inside of the base casting was bare cast iron, grey, and not a spot of rust on it. The steel shafts for the belt pulleys show almost no signs of wear, and came out of the bearings with just a light tap of a screwdriver handle. The sparkles in the pic are artifacts from the flash. Not the best pic, but it was getting dark.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Half way home.

Getting there, have only the disk table to finish, then build a base and add the motor. Of course my OCD will require me to clean and paint the motor first........

Would have had the disk table done except there was some rust on the top that I thought would be better served by removing via electrolysis.

No, the belt tensioning lever was not re-done. I decided to leave it original to remember the original color. Still working on the decal....
 

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VERY nice
 
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What a find!

Great job on the restoration Clay!
 
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Wood Wizard reincarnation complete. Pictures: 1st - in that bucket is the sanding disk table. 2nd - after removing from electrolysis bath and washing off. 3rd - painted and installed. Now on to the base and motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did some work on the decal, best I could do to resurrect it. Might play a little more with brightness/contrast, but overall it will have to do.
 

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Clay,

You found a diamond in the rough and turned it into a real jewel.

The decal looks great. Whatever you did to it added a lot of depth.

I did see a flaw however which ruins the whole project.

I won't point it out. I don't want to embarrass you.

For discreet disposal please send that sander to:

Jeff Harris
12345 Dream on Lane
Albuquerque, NM

I promise it'll be our little secret!
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Clay,

You found a diamond in the rough and turned it into a real jewel.

The decal looks great. Whatever you did to it added a lot of depth.

I did see a flaw however which ruins the whole project.

I won't point it out. I don't want to embarrass you.

For discreet disposal please send that sander to:

Jeff Harris
12345 Dream on Lane
Albuquerque, NM

I promise it'll be our little secret!
Keep watching your mailbox!

What I did to the decal was to blow it up in an old software program that I've had for ages and edit it, sometimes pixel by pixel. Letters had to be repaired, chips blotted out, lines fixed, etc. The "TRADE MARK" text was a real pain. I had to individually outline each letter one at a time at the pixel level, sometimes guessing where the edges went, then "spray paint" them within the outline. Portions of the oval could be copied and flipped to repair breaks in the opposite sides. But it's done!
 

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Keep watching your mailbox!

What I did to the decal was to blow it up in an old software program that I've had for ages and edit it, sometimes pixel by pixel. Letters had to be repaired, chips blotted out, lines fixed, etc. The "TRADE MARK" text was a real pain. I had to individually outline each letter one at a time at the pixel level, sometimes guessing where the edges went, then "spray paint" them within the outline. Portions of the oval could be copied and flipped to repair breaks in the opposite sides. But it's done!
You did an awesome job on the decal graphic!! I have done the pixel by pixel job in the past to doctor photos of the kids in funny get ups for birthday cards and its not something I like doing, very time consuming so kudos to you for spending the time!!

Congrats on the awesome find and the restoration!!!
How do you plan to transfer the logo back onto the machine?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You did an awesome job on the decal graphic!! I have done the pixel by pixel job in the past to doctor photos of the kids in funny get ups for birthday cards and its not something I like doing, very time consuming so kudos to you for spending the time!!

Congrats on the awesome find and the restoration!!!
How do you plan to transfer the logo back onto the machine?
Thanks. I print the logo on photo paper (inkjet), cut it out, and cover with clear packing tape. Then I apply double sided (real thin) tape to the back, and trim around the decal. The backing on the ds tape is then pealed off, and the decal applied. Here's a shot of one for a Craftsman scroll saw I did some time back:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/dragged-another-derelict-home-today-40243/index2/#post358307
 

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Hunter
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I think that the decal looks perfect like it is, a little rough. If it looked factory new, it would look out of place on an old, but restored machine.

Hunter
 
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