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Hello all, I am somewhat new to fine woodworking and looking for some advice on my board selection. I know that I want to use maple. I have used this in the past for a butcher block in my kitchen. The shades of the wood are pretty close, at least they were in the store. When I got them home, they appear to be very different. I will be making a coffee table and I am not sure that the top will look uniform if the board are different. I guess the question is, how much does stain/dye help to match dissimilar colors? I presume it will not at all.

I have rotated and flipped these a bunch of times and cannot get a solid match

Should I exchange for ones that are closer? What are you opinions?

 

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Attempting to match one with another with stains and dyes is a life time learning process and each situation is usually unique with some species compounding this more than others. If matching is important to you return the undesirables. Keep plenty of scrap ends to test stains and finishes on.
 

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Attempting to match one with another with stains and dyes is a life time learning process and each situation is usually unique with some species compounding this more than others. If matching is important to you return the undesirables. Keep plenty of scrap ends to test stains and finishes on.

Thanks, I returned one and they match up pretty well. My wife's uncle is pretty seasoned so next step to get some in person assistance running 'em through the jointer.

What do the pro's prefer for joining method, biscuits or dowells? Or is that the age old question?
 

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Thanks, I returned one and they match up pretty well. My wife's uncle is pretty seasoned so next step to get some in person assistance running 'em through the jointer.

What do the pro's prefer for joining method, biscuits or dowells? Or is that the age old question?
That question has been kicked around for a long time with usually very little agreement. I certainly not a pro but I prefer not using either. On occasion I do use pins ( brads ) for alignment on dry fit depending on the lumber and the project. I will say that on the majority of glue ups too much pressure is applied, often because of a poor fit, and a starved joint is the result when using low pressure glues.
 

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First, trying to select or match wood color is very difficult under varying light sources. Store have a wide variety of lamp sources so the best solution is to get them to let you take the boards outdoors. Outdoor light is a lot more consistent.

Second, do you have the right type of bar clamps to edge joint your boards? Neither dowels or biscuits need by used to edge glue boards. Neither all additional strength to the joint. Using the correct adhesive is the most important factor in a strong joint.

Dies and /or stains will not make the boards look to be the same color.

A final recommendation. Test out your finishing plans on scrap wood from your project. Never let you project be your test case to learning curve.
 

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If you want to skip dowels and biscuits, just use clamping cauls for alignment when edge gluing. That's all I do, if the boards are a little off I level the glued up panel with my planes. The fellows at the local stores all recommend biscuits for alignment, but they also sell biscuit jointers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just bought a plate joiner so I am excited to use it, needed or not, I will be using biscuits :p
 

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I've had misalignment issues even with biscuits. And I've had it turn out good. If you do use biscuits, give it time to dry good before sanding. Biscuits will swell on you, and if you sand too soon, when they dry, you can be left with divots in your wood at the joint lines. I've got two biscuit joiners, and they sit idle. I prefer cauls when I glue up a panel or tabletop. Easy to make and use.
 

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IS posible to glue two pices of wood (lumber) and where are they jointed (that pleace need to be airtight). How can two pieces of wood make one airtight . I don't understand it. It will always leak i think.
 

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Azur Jahić;577549 said:
IS posible to glue two pices of wood (lumber) and where are they jointed (that pleace need to be airtight). How can two pieces of wood make one airtight . I don't understand it. It will always leak i think.
My very best glue joints have been those that I used my jointer plane to gang plane the two mating surfaces simultaneously.

Alternatively the same thing can be accomplished with a power jointer (I don't have one) or a glue line rip blade in a table saw (I have one but get better lines with my hand plane)
 

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Azur Jahić;577549 said:
IS posible to glue two pices of wood (lumber) and where are they jointed (that pleace need to be airtight). How can two pieces of wood make one airtight . I don't understand it. It will always leak i think.
that is what a jointer is for, if you run boards throgh the jointer they will fit like air tight , jointer has to be set up good , like the fence at 90 degrees to the bed, and at the end of the board no snip at the end of the board, , my self i never use dowel's or bisket's for table top's and never had a failed one yet, been doing wood working i guess 50 or so yrs now. you can use a table mounted router and bit to do the same kind of cut on the edge also, using a flush trim bit. good luck
 

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A tip I was taught by another member on here is to put the two edges to be glued together and hold them up to the light, if you can see light through the joint, it may not create a tight fitting glue joint.
 

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Azur ,

I cannot see joins , I see the same grain pattern across the boards .

Its hardly to me belive that this is one board wich have 3 foot i gues. Ok so then this kind of joints. how this wasn't leaking in past

I don't want to bother but i just ask. IF logicaly you take two pieces of wood and you join them wil it be air leaking like micro small. Can that be valued as one big pices of 30 Inch wide and two 15 wide glued are the airtight same at these two examples.
 

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The truth is, it's not air tight. It's good enough though. Even a solid board isn't air tight. You get a small amount of air leaking through. The amount of air leaking through is miniscule when compared to the air that goes through the end of the bellows. you get 99.999% of the air out the bellows, and 0.001% through the wood and leather and seams... (The numbers are purely made up.)
 

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The truth is, it's not air tight. It's good enough though. Even a solid board isn't air tight. You get a small amount of air leaking through. The amount of air leaking through is miniscule when compared to the air that goes through the end of the bellows. you get 99.999% of the air out the bellows, and 0.001% through the wood and leather and seams... (The numbers are purely made up.)
Thanks for answer. I am building one so i have these problems with boards jointing.
 
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