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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
During my monthly Woodturning meeting today, I won a blank from our raffle. It's about 2x2x15 & beautiful Cocobolo. Photo doesn't due it justice. Since I suck at turning, I'm not sure what to do with it as I don't want to waste it. I could slice it up and use it as an accent piece on a few picture frames. I guess time will tell.

Mark
 

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Log dog
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We'll cool!!!!
I suck even more at turning, so send to me for practice. Laughing!!!!
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dave,

I coincidentally looked at those pizza cutter kits last weekend. I'll be in Houston next week for 3 days and will likely stop by the Rockler & Woodcraft stores so I might grab a couple then for gifts.
 

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Dave,

I coincidentally looked at those pizza cutter kits last weekend. I'll be in Houston next week for 3 days and will likely stop by the Rockler & Woodcraft stores so I might grab a couple then for gifts.
The Rockler kit is much heavier than the Woodcraft, perhaps too heavy for some people's preference.

I purchased a couple of the Rockler kits. I prefer the weight of the Woodcraft kits. Not light, but not as heavy as the Rockler. I have likely purchased 18 of the Woodcraft kits. Always appreciated as gifts.
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dave Paine said:
The Rockler kit is much heavier than the Woodcraft, perhaps too heavy for some people's preference. I purchased a couple of the Rockler kits. I prefer the weight of the Woodcraft kits. Not light, but not as heavy as the Rockler. I have likely purchased 18 of the Woodcraft kits. Always appreciated as gifts.
Thanks for the info. I was just putting together my trip wish list and noticed they are actually on sale at Woodvraft, so I'd likely get there.

Also, Rockler sells a mandrel that goes in a Jacobs Chuck with a 5/16" end on it. Do you use a mandrel, or do you just turn between centers? My thought with the mandrel is after turning , I could completely finish handle end while still on the mandrel.
 

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Thanks for the info. I was just putting together my trip wish list and noticed they are actually on sale at Woodvraft, so I'd likely get there.

Also, Rockler sells a mandrel that goes in a Jacobs Chuck with a 5/16" end on it. Do you use a mandrel, or do you just turn between centers? My thought with the mandrel is after turning , I could completely finish handle end while still on the mandrel.
Yes, the Woodcraft are on sale for $12.99 - which is $5 off. A good deal I feel.

I did a build thread on making a pizza cutter, but since I did this thread I have modified my process.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/making-pizza-cutter-handle-45510/

If you have a 5/16in dia bolt which turns true, you can avoid purchasing a mandrel. Normal bolt hardware is not intended for such use and may not turn true. If you are lucky, a few choice taps with a hammer can get one to turn true. I got lucky and so far have not needed to purchase a mandrel. I have a mandrel for bottle stoppers and so can see the difference.

These days I turn between centres. Spur drive in the headstock, and cone on the tailstock. I normally use a spur drive which fits in my scroll chuck, but I have just purchased a long spur drive from PSI which I will likely use for future handles.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTXL2.html?concept=3

My present process is to rough the blank, then mount in my scroll chuck so I can drill the hole in the tailstock end.

I use a Steady Rest to minimize vibration. I have a build thread on making a Steady Rest.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/making-lathe-steady-rest-43902/

Once the hole has been drilled, I then use a piece of threaded rod with a regular nut and coupler nut (the extra long nuts to join threaded rod). I screw on the insert on one end and lightly fasten the other end in a Jacobs chuck mounted in the tailstock. I use this method since I found it was easier to keep the insert close to being centred, more than the hand drivers.

Once the insert is in place, I unlock the two nuts then they and the threaded rod are easily removed.

I then finish turning the insert end, then flip this and mount on a 5/16in dia bolt in the scroll chuck to finish turn the rest of the handle with a cone in the tailstock. I end up with a small hole in the top of the handle. Sometimes I have sanded away after turning, sometimes I have left in place.

I hope this helps.
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dave Paine said:
Yes, the Woodcraft are on sale for $12.99 - which is $5 off. A good deal I feel. I did a build thread on making a pizza cutter, but since I did this thread I have modified my process. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/making-pizza-cutter-handle-45510/ If you have a 5/16in dia bolt which turns true, you can avoid purchasing a mandrel. Normal bolt hardware is not intended for such use and may not turn true. If you are lucky, a few choice taps with a hammer can get one to turn true. I got lucky and so far have not needed to purchase a mandrel. I have a mandrel for bottle stoppers and so can see the difference. These days I turn between centres. Spur drive in the headstock, and cone on the tailstock. I normally use a spur drive which fits in my scroll chuck, but I have just purchased a long spur drive from PSI which I will likely use for future handles. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTXL2.html?concept=3 My present process is to rough the blank, then mount in my scroll chuck so I can drill the hole in the tailstock end. I use a Steady Rest to minimize vibration. I have a build thread on making a Steady Rest. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/making-lathe-steady-rest-43902/ Once the hole has been drilled, I then use a piece of threaded rod with a regular nut and coupler nut (the extra long nuts to join threaded rod). I screw on the insert on one end and lightly fasten the other end in a Jacobs chuck mounted in the tailstock. I use this method since I found it was easier to keep the insert close to being centred, more than the hand drivers. Once the insert is in place, I unlock the two nuts then they and the threaded rod are easily removed. I then finish turning the insert end, then flip this and mount on a 5/16in dia bolt in the scroll chuck to finish turn the rest of the handle with a cone in the tailstock. I end up with a small hole in the top of the handle. Sometimes I have sanded away after turning, sometimes I have left in place. I hope this helps.
It does help some. My intention is to try to make a handle with a piece of scrap first. Then if I'm happy with the process, I'll use good wood.
 

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It does help some. My intention is to try to make a handle with a piece of scrap first. Then if I'm happy with the process, I'll use good wood.
Practice is always useful. :thumbsup:

FYI I eventually settled on using 15/32in dia drill for the hole. Smaller hole dia is much harder to screw in the insert.
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dave Paine said:
Practice is always useful. :thumbsup: FYI I eventually settled on using 15/32in dia drill for the hole. Smaller hole dia is much harder to screw in the insert.
Since I don't want to assume, for hardwood or softwood?

Mark
 
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