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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I want to build a wood socket on the back of my Corner style Entertainment Center to mount a 50 lb LCD TV at a later date. I want it to be Red Oak to match the trim and not too big.

I figure a 1x4 60” long with a 1x3 glued on back to make ‘T’ and I’ll bolt the wall mount directly to the 1x4 if it fits. I know it will hold it up, but will it not bend or warp?

Below is a photo of the back of the cabinet without the socket. I’ll build the socket out of Dug Fir to fit the oak T-post after I determine if it’s going to work.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I decided that I'm going ahead with the plan and if if it fails then I'll make another with angle steel as the backing.

So thanks anyway. Its almost done :smile:
 

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I want to build a wood socket on the back of my Corner style Entertainment Center to mount a 50 lb LCD TV at a later date. I want it to be Red Oak to match the trim and not too big.

I figure a 1x4 60” long with a 1x3 glued on back to make ‘T’ and I’ll bolt the wall mount directly to the 1x4 if it fits. I know it will hold it up, but will it not bend or warp?

Below is a photo of the back of the cabinet without the socket. I’ll build the socket out of Dug Fir to fit the oak T-post after I determine if it’s going to work.

Sounds a bit confusing to me. What's a socket?




.

 

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It looks like the 1x3 might be pine. You would have had more strength to make that out of oak and the other piece out of pine. I don't think it will work long term. I think the 1x3 needs beefing up. You might laminate some oak on each side of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds a bit confusing to me. What's a socket?






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Socket, receptacle, bottom bracket, or whatever you want to call it. LOL :smile:

It’s just to hold the bottom of the post in place, but not to support it completely. I’ll plug the post into the socket when I want to use it and pull it out when I want to ship it when I ever move. :shifty:

I’m going to have a couple of bolts on back of the top shelf to secure it or keep the post from tipping side to side.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
It looks like the 1x3 might be pine. You would have had more strength to make that out of oak and the other piece out of pine. I don't think it will work long term. I think the 1x3 needs beefing up. You might laminate some oak on each side of it.
Nope! Definitely 100% solid California grown Red Oak :thumbsup: :smile:

Now the socket is a combination of Dug Fir and Pine, but it really doesn’t have that much force on it. It's probably way over built ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I may have a problem with the actual TV wall mount because its so wide. I'm not sure if it will be strong enough bolted to a 3 1/2" wide board.

 

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You'll probably be ok with the bracket. I do a ton of TV mounting for Samsung and usually the wall panels are made with plywood. Just make sure your 3 1/2" board is well secured.

Are you attaching anything to the wall? Or will the cabinet be free standing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You'll probably be ok with the bracket. I do a ton of TV mounting for Samsung and usually the wall panels are made with plywood. Just make sure your 3 1/2" board is well secured.

Are you attaching anything to the wall? Or will the cabinet be free standing?
Nothing is going to be attached to the wall and the whole cabinet is on 8 – 2” caster wheels so I can pull it out of the corner to hook up wires and occasionally clean and dust.
I still have to work out how the post is going to attach to the top of the cabinet except to bolt or screw it to a horizontal 1x3 read oak piece supporting the top shelf. I don’t want the bolt to be seen from the front and I may have to use some sort of metal bracket attached to the underside of the top shelf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I’m still looking at the size of the bracket and the 24” width is a little unnerving. When I first thought of this I had no idea of how large the bracket was.

I was playing around with the dimensions in Sketchup to see what the TV post would look like because the mounting bracket is so large and I don’t know. I may have to beef up the joinery on top or at maybe do something to prevent it from twisting off.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I decided to use a piece of ¾” Plywood with 2 ½” bracing for the TV mounting plate. I may even use a lighter wood like pine for the cross bracing to keep the weight down.

I may even add a extra couple of blocks in the middle of the plywood just so it will not twist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You'll probably be ok with the bracket. I do a ton of TV mounting for Samsung and usually the wall panels are made with plywood. Just make sure your 3 1/2" board is well secured.

Are you attaching anything to the wall? Or will the cabinet be free standing?
Hey Danno, I have a question for you because you have experience with this.

I received my wall mount today and started to assemble it, but I’m curious about the rubber spacers that are supposed to be on it. Do they actually need to be on there even though the back of the TV is flat?

 

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I believe they do. On the ones I've done, the bolts were longer than the holes, so the spacer is so you can tighten the bolt all the way. Some of the brackets are off-set as well, so the spacers are used to keep the bracket straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I believe they do. On the ones I've done, the bolts were longer than the holes, so the spacer is so you can tighten the bolt all the way. Some of the brackets are off-set as well, so the spacers are used to keep the bracket straight.
Ok thanks, I only asked because they gave me two lengths of that thread size and one looks like it would work without the spacer, but maybe I should used it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Too cheap so maybe a shiplap joint to lengthen short board?

I’ve been busy with other things and just now decided to finish this post to hang the TV on. I cut off a piece of oak designated for this project without realizing it and now it’s about 9” too short. It’s a 1x2 be glued parallel on edge in center of main oak board as a stiffener. I don’t want to waste another board so I’m going to lengthen it with another short board using a shiplap. :shifty:

I’m wondering if I’m just being too cheap and maybe I should just head to the store for another board. The splice will not be seen and I really don’t know that it will weaken it. Maybe a long shiplap will help.



Nominally I wouldn’t think much of it, but I’ve been having a lot of bad pieces of oak lately with rot or cracking between the grains. I’m also thinking of using poplar for the short extension piece just because I know it doesn’t have any problems.

 

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your project now has a project

If it were me I'd just get another board... Oak or Poplar, but if the rest is Oak, I'd stick with that. Look for close, straight grain in the sides, rather than larger, open grain. :smile:
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Just got back from HD with a new piece of oak, but they did not have much of a selection. I got the best they had and it’s not so good. So now I’m thinking about using a Dug Fir 2x4 as the stiffener and run it though the jointer and then the planer. I would just have to a tenon the bottom to fit my base.
I also have some small ¼” strips of oak plywood that I could laminate over the part that’s visible and it might even be stronger.

 
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