[allpurpose]

Obviously I didn't live a good clean life because cleaning out all the gunk and compacted sawdust and factory grease and other miscellaneous" routine maintenance" tasks whilst climbing under the saw on my hands and knees in the gobs of dust under the cabinet under my saw just wasn't nearly as much fun as originally anticipated. Who knew it gets THAT filthy under there after working for a year without doing it along the way? I gotta go get some silicone lube..Any suggestions?
There must have been some reason I put this off for over a year..I wonder what it could have possibly been..

 

[Steve Neul]

Obviously I didn't live a good clean life because cleaning out all the gunk and compacted sawdust and factory grease and other miscellaneous" routine maintenance" tasks whilst climbing under the saw on my hands and knees in the gobs of dust under the cabinet under my saw just wasn't nearly as much fun as originally anticipated. Who knew it gets THAT filthy under there after working for a year without doing it along the way? I gotta go get some silicone lube..Any suggestions?
There must have been some reason I put this off for over a year..I wonder what it could have possibly been..

When you get it cleaned up the best way to keep it clean is to not turn the saw on anymore. Still you would have to wrap it in plastic.

 

[sunnybob]

Careful with the grease and oil, it all acts as a dust magnet, and by the next clean out its a good substitute for concrete.
Clean everything, dry everything, and once a month put the vacuum cleaner in there.

 

[GeorgeC]

I clean mine with my blower when I have the saw dragged out to the front of the garage.

George

PS In fact, that is the way I clean the whole garage.

 

[B Coll]

I do mine spontaneously when cleaning the shop. I never do a thorough cleaning, just shovel out the saw dust. Never even considered lubing it. My current saw has been used several times a week for 25 years, no sense in lubing it now. I am going to have to tackle my spindle shaper though. The elevation wheel always seems tight and I only have about 2" of movement left in it. Hoping it is just a thorough cleaning it needs. I do not use the shaper on the daily, sometimes it sits for a month without use.

 

[difalkner]

Any suggestions?

Dry lube only. It's all I've used since restoring my PM66 years ago and the gears and mechanism are still clean. There's a bit of dust that I clean out a few times each year but no issues with the moving parts and gunked up grease and lubricants.

 

[Dave McCann]

Great for reducing friction and wear on blades and bits, door and window tracks, slides, conveyor belts, rollers, hinges, table saws, lathes, power tools and equipment.

 

[builtinbkyn2]

From time to time I hit the inside of the cabinet with compressed air while running the DC, to blast things clear of dust buildup. As for lube, Delta recommends basic lithium grease for the rack and pinion gears on the trunnion. So that's what I go with. It doesn't take a lot to keep things moving freely.

 

[allpurpose]

Yeah..probably screwed up with silicone spray, but it's in there now. Maybe I'll talk my partner into it next time..Get him a stack of HF brass brushes and a can of dry lube and diagrams.. I'm surprised anything at all moved down under there. Worm gears were caked up and moving things was getting difficult at best.. Now they're moving like a new saw.. I'll let it sit for a day or so and let whatever might be sticky and drippy kind of drip down to the bottom.. That's a technical description..sticky and drippy and a great cartoon duo..

 

[Rwhpi]

I use paste wax, on the gears and trunnion only. I apply a light coat with a tooth brush (or any nylon brush) and operate both wheels to evenly coat the shafts. Compressed air is frequently used to to blow out any buildup. When the mechanisms appear dry, I wipe them down, along with any buildup in the channels, with a dry rag and then repeat the process. I formerly used lithium grease, but found that it does eventually causes some buildup. The paste wax is a better alternative "for me" to reduce any gunk formation -- and I find that most of the work can be down through the saw top by removing the blade insert. That surely saves the knees, legs and back!

 

[difalkner]

along with any buildup in the channels

That's why I use dry lube - zero buildup since restoring the saw about nine years ago.

 

[Leo G]

I use paste wax, on the gears and trunnion only. I apply a light coat with a tooth brush (or any nylon brush) and operate both wheels to evenly coat the shafts. Compressed air is frequently used to to blow out any buildup. When the mechanisms appear dry, I wipe them down, along with any buildup in the channels, with a dry rag and then repeat the process. I formerly used lithium grease, but found that it does eventually causes some buildup. The paste wax is a better alternative "for me" to reduce any gunk formation -- and I find that most of the work can be down through the saw top by removing the blade insert. That surely saves the knees, legs and back!

Same here. Wax. I put a small dab a couple places and then operate the gears to spread it out. Let it dry for 1/2 hour and dust won't stick to it anymore

 

[Rwhpi]

That's why I use dry lube - zero buildup since restoring the saw about nine years ago.

David. What brand dry lube do you use?
I'm thinking that it may work on my garage door tracks. The spray that my local GD service recommends is in a spray can (by GUNK) and it still still collects dust. To me, waxing the tracks would be too time-consuming

 

[difalkner]

What brand dry lube do you use?

Bought this from Lowe's years ago and still on the same can - works great!

 

[Rwhpi]

Thank You, David! I'll try it.

 

[Rwhpi]

Same here. Wax. I put a small dab a couple places and then operate the gears to spread it out. Let it dry for 1/2 hour and dust won't stick to it anymore

Leo. Awsome photos on our website!

 

[Rwhpi]

Leo. Awsome photos on our website!

I meant YOUR website. (Senior moment)

 

[Leo G]

I was wondering when WE made a website. LOL

Thanks.