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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, I am venturing into my first project and have some simple questions for the more experienced woodworkers on here.

I am going to make some built ins for our mud room and was wondering what type of wood will be most user friendly. I don't plan on staining the wood so I am not so concerned with fancy grain. I will most likely paint and glaze it antique style.

Can I use that white wood dimensional wood from Home Depot? Or should I be looking at another solution.

I appreciate any input.

Thanks
Yinzer
 

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By " white wood dimensional wood from Home Depot" I assume that you are just writing about construction grade pine. It would probably be OK if you can find enough pieces in good enough condition to use for your purpose.

Do you have an old fashioned lumber yard in your area. If so you could probably get a better grade of lumber there for not a lot more money.

George
 

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Hello everyone, I am venturing into my first project and have some simple questions for the more experienced woodworkers on here.

I am going to make some built ins for our mud room and was wondering what type of wood will be most user friendly. I don't plan on staining the wood so I am not so concerned with fancy grain. I will most likely paint and glaze it antique style.

Can I use that white wood dimensional wood from Home Depot? Or should I be looking at another solution.

I appreciate any input.

Thanks
Yinzer
You should do alright with the whitewood. Be careful to watch for sap pockets in the wood and cut around those areas. When you finish the wood the knots might bleed sap too. I would seal the knots with Zinsser Sealcoat prior to painting.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses already! Maybe I should ask this:

What wood do you suggest I use for painted built ins?

Thanks
Yinzer
 

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White wood is flat consistent and most important not a soft wood. While it may be soft. It will still look, work and finish much better than something best suited for a roofing project. I love using it for jigs and drawer bottoms. It doesn't seem to have many internal voids and holds a screw well. Also seems to be the same thickness from one week to the next. That thickness I have no number for due to my uneducated ways of woodworking. One half inch minus almost one of the little tiny marks I don't care to name.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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yinzer said:
Hello everyone, I am venturing into my first project and have some simple questions for the more experienced woodworkers on here.

I am going to make some built ins for our mud room and was wondering what type of wood will be most user friendly. I don't plan on staining the wood so I am not so concerned with fancy grain. I will most likely paint and glaze it antique style.

Can I use that white wood dimensional wood from Home Depot? Or should I be looking at another solution.

I appreciate any input.

Thanks
Yinzer
For the mud room. A fine choice. Will be very easy to work with. Finish would be best off painted.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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Which wood you use for paint grade is dependent on when're you live and what woods are least expensive.

I tend to use either soft maple, or poplar depending on how hard I need it to be.

Can you post a sketch? It would help in recommending which woods to use.

If you need large flat panels plywood or mdf will work depending on how much moisture and load you'll expect. The plywood will show the face grain through most paints. The solution to that is MDO plywood, which has a bonded paper overlay, and is designed to make signs from and is waterproof, and takes paint with no grain to show through.
 

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White wood is flat consistent and most important not a soft wood. While it may be soft. It will still look, work and finish much better than something best suited for a roofing project. I love using it for jigs and drawer bottoms. It doesn't seem to have many internal voids and holds a screw well. Also seems to be the same thickness from one week to the next. That thickness I have no number for due to my uneducated ways of woodworking. One half inch minus almost one of the little tiny marks I don't care to name.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
Sounds like just barely over 7/16. That would be one heck of a drawer bottom. I thought most people usually used 1/4 lauan plywood. Don't they?
 

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I used pine (what I would call white wood) from menards for some wall panels in my old house. It has held up just fine but the knots did bleed through a couple coats of white latex paint. It still looks ok, buy I would definitely seal it if I were to do it again.
 

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I don't know if it is available at your home depot but poplar would be a better wood to paint. It is largely free of knots but is more expensive there. If you had a hardwood lumber company near you, it would probably run less than pine there.
 

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I would not be too worried about using white wood if that's your only option. However, if you have a lumber yard locally, and want to use a solid wood product, they will have better options for a comparable price. I've used the HD white wood for a few things out of desperation, and it's performance is acceptable, but it's a soft wood, and will never have the good qualities of a decent hardwood or even hardwood ply. I would go with ply if H D is your only option, and you have a way to dimension sheet goods. Just my opinion.

WCT
 

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Duane Bledsoe said:
Sounds like just barely over 7/16. That would be one heck of a drawer bottom. I thought most people usually used 1/4 lauan plywood. Don't they?
Right. I can get white in 1/4" too. Just saying what I like "white" wood for. I don't like lauan for drawer bottoms unless it's a light color.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the responses. So I called our local lumber supplier and he recommended maple at first. Then I told him that I was going to paint it and he recommended poplar.

The problem though is he said it might need planed in some areas to clean up some rough spots. I have always wanted a planer and this looks like my chance to sneak one in! ;). This would allow me to joint them together for wider sections as well.

Thanks
Yinzer
 

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Planers don't joint but jointers can plane on a limited basis. Only as wide as the boards they'll accept. Lot of jointers only run 6" boards or less. To joint with a planer the board would have to run through on it's edge. Not safe for broad but thin boards like 1x materials
 
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yinzer said:
Thanks for all the responses. So I called our local lumber supplier and he recommended maple at first. Then I told him that I was going to paint it and he recommended poplar.

The problem though is he said it might need planed in some areas to clean up some rough spots. I have always wanted a planer and this looks like my chance to sneak one in! ;). This would allow me to joint them together for wider sections as well.

Thanks
Yinzer
Best off if you want to joint wood without a jointer. You can do it on the table saw with the right blade.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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Hello, everybody: the O_P wants shelves for a MUD ROOM. Not a dining room. He expects to have the crapola beat out of it over the next few years. Anything will do. Give it 5 years of abuse, toss it and start over.

With kids and Chessies, this has worked out just fine. Every 5 yeqars, I tossed the shelving and did it again. What can the point possibly be to create a MUD ROOM to last 500 years? It must be disposable.
 
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