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White oak table top: two part question

1K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  builtinbkyn2 
#1 ·
Two part question:

When finishing a table with exposed end grain, do the ends need special treatment/sealing to control movement?

Table will be white oak. I want a semi-formal appearance. Meaning, it will be in our “formal” dining room, but I don’t want to hide the character of the wood. I have no interest in a smooth, mirror finish. I was reading up on Rubio, but heard it might not be the best option where spills are likely. Suggestions?
 
#2 ·
If you aren't putting on breadboard ends, I am not sure what special treatments will halt or manage movement. The wood will move, the wood always wins in a fight. You have to manage the movement so that it doesn't crack apart.

People talk about using alternate smiley face and frowny face placement of adjacent boards, but some say that doesn't matter and to go with the face placement that looks best.

The only thing you may want to do (purely for cosmetics in my opinion) is to fine sand the end grains to 600 grit or so. This will limit absorption of the finish and make the color of the end grain a better match to the face grain.
 
#7 ·
The table top should be finished equally on all sides and ends. This will help stabilize the wood movement. Test on a bit of scrap to see if the end grain darkens from the edge and face grain wood. If so, the end grain may need an application of sealer like SealCoat. Practice your finishing schedule on scrap to avoid a mistake on the project piece. We have an oak dining table and the exposed end grain is finished like the rest of the surfaces. The Amish made table is over twenty years old and no issues with it. I refinished the top a couple of years ago due to wear of the sprayed on tinted conversion varnish on the edges/corners with dye and wipe on Polyurethane.
 
#8 ·
Someone else can probably give a more technical answer, but I think the end grain splitting (checking) issue is more prevalent with wood that is still drying. Kiln or air dried wood is pretty stable and is much less subject to this problem. As Jim Frye said, just apply your finish evenly on all sides, provide for seasonal movement, and you should be good.
 
#10 ·
I agree that orienting in the most pleasing to the eye is the way to go. For edge grain I usually sand up one grade from the top. With white oak I would sand 150 on the face and 220 on the end grain. Eventually going to buffing with 220 after sealer and 320/400 between coats. For table tops that are going to receive use I would suggest pre-cat conversion varnish. Target makes a waterborne CV (EM8000cv) that is just slightly less bulletproof than the 2k solvent version, and may be improved with a crosslinker additive. The coating is thinner than poly and has an excellent natural look.
 
#11 ·
By the way I would love to see your table when completed. I have designed my own dining table (77" x 42-ish"), will start in March. Have not decided whether it will be ash, white oak or walnut.

How wide will each table top board be individually in yours?
 
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