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I am in the market for a new table saw blade and not exactly sure which one to get... I am wanting to cut some hard stock, maple, heartwood, maghogny. Ripping them mostly. Would a lower tooth count (40) be better?? I got the Irwin marples 80T for Christmas for cross cutting,but looking for a good rip blade (dedicated). Looking to hopefully stay less than a hundred bucks. Any thoughts?

Using a 3HP Powermatic single phase if that makes a difference!
 

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Wood Snob
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I like the Freud brands sold in box stores. I was ripping with a Irwin and didn't think it was stiff enough and suffered from surfing through the cut. I also think the best add on to any table saw is a single stabilizer on the left side of the blade. Adds to the smoothness of the cut. Been using one for a long time.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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A 40T will be more prone to burning in thicker materials, so what to get really depends. Most 30T rip blades are "Glue Line Ripper" (GLR) that cut smoothly, but aren't intended to rip in materials over 1". The Forrest WWII 30T fills a niche though....it'll rip to nearly full blade height (depending on the particular material), and will leave a cleaner edge than a 24T ripper. Those run just about $100. The Delta 35-7653 is a similar design...closeout priced at $24 plus s/h.

If you play your cards right, you could end up with a good 40T blade and a good 18T to 24T bulk ripper, and swap them out depending on the thickness and desired edge. The Delta 35-7657 is a full kerf 40T ATB blade that'll rival the better 40T general purpose blades....closeout $18 plus s/h.

Current saw blade bargains

Tips for picking saw blades
 

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The Forrest Woodworker II blades are amazing. The cut they leave is hard to distinguish from a jointer cut. If you have a saw that's under powered go with the 30 tooth 3/32 thickness. They are ATB and will rip or crosscut perfectly. What makes them so great is that they are flat. Period. I've been using them for 20 years and love 'em.
 

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The Forrest Woodworker II blades are amazing. The cut they leave is hard to distinguish from a jointer cut. If you have a saw that's under powered go with the 30 tooth 3/32 thickness. They are ATB and will rip or crosscut perfectly. What makes them so great is that they are flat. Period. I've been using them for 20 years and love 'em.
I agree. I have had both the Forrest Woodworker I and II for several years. Their finish can't be beat for either ripping or crosscutting. They are pricier than other blades no doubt.
 

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I agree. I have had both the Forrest Woodworker I and II for several years. Their finish can't be beat for either ripping or crosscutting. They are pricier than other blades no doubt.
I'd guess that those who've tried Infinity, Ridge Carbide, and the Tenryu Gold Medal series will think that Forrest has some stout competition.....good blades for sure, but they're not alone at the top, and tend to be among the most expensive options for getting that level of performance.
 

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patternboy said:
I agree. I have had both the Forrest Woodworker I and II for several years. Their finish can't be beat for either ripping or crosscutting. They are pricier than other blades no doubt.
Do you let Forest sharpen them? As I remember they offered the service and claimed they would come back as good as new. I never heard a single person voice a single complaint about them.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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I always have Forrest sharpen mine. They do a great job. I also have them check the blade for flatness and ask them to re-flatten the blade if it has gotten out of true for any reason. It makes a difference.
 

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The right choice with Forrest Mfg. I have been using them also for about 20 years. They do a professional job of sharpening also. I always have a spare ready to go when one needs sharpening.
 
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