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Second that! Most importantly is to pilot drill & try to keep the hole away from end grain edge of wood to minimize splitting.I use coarse thread for both hard and soft woods. I drill a countersunk/pilot hole. I like to use lengths that seat about two thirds in the second piece (like 1¼" for ¾" to ¾").
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+1 hereI use coarse thread for both hard and soft woods. I drill a countersunk/pilot hole. I like to use lengths that seat about two thirds in the second piece (like 1¼" for ¾" to ¾").
Same here. My bit/countersink cuts nice enough that I can also take it all the way down to the flange with little to no force so I can use a 3/8" plug to hide the screws.I use coarse thread for both hard and soft woods. I drill a countersunk/pilot hole. I like to use lengths that seat about two thirds in the second piece (like 1¼" for ¾" to ¾").
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You can buy the combo bits that will drill the countersink in different widths. The bits they come with are pretty much what is needed for that size screw.So how much different is a countersink or counterbore going to finish compared to a spade bit? I like the countersinks that don't have the long drill on it because you can't really pick the size of it. They tried to make it one step when really it should always be two.
One step is certainly better than two. As Cabinet man says below, get the proper bit and it works perfectly.So how much different is a countersink or counterbore going to finish compared to a spade bit? I like the countersinks that don't have the long drill on it because you can't really pick the size of it. They tried to make it one step when really it should always be two.
One like this can be adjusted to whatever length you wantSo how much different is a countersink or counterbore going to finish compared to a spade bit? I like the countersinks that don't have the long drill on it because you can't really pick the size of it. They tried to make it one step when really it should always be two.
I love those screws but I only use them for fixtures and jigs. I use the deck screw kind. But again only for fixtures.BobLongwood said:so what is a cheap drywall screw and what's a high end drywall screw? I was thinking on using torx screws because they look better and would be easier to install with a hand ratchet.
Coarse thread drywall screws work OK when they are installed correctly. Drill a piloted/countersunk hole, and drive the screw in slowly with a cordless drill. When near tight, just bump the trigger to tighten the screw. Screws snap, or the heads snap off from driving too fast, creating heat. When driven fast and then they seat, that's when they can snap.so what is a cheap drywall screw and what's a high end drywall screw? I was thinking on using torx screws because they look better and would be easier to install with a hand ratchet.
Thank you for clarifying. Is the type of steel usually disclosed on the product or is this info usually not given? Which types of steel or screw are usually a safe bet for mild steel and not hardened?It's not "cheap" vs "expensive" drywall screws, somebody just injected their personal take. It's the type of steel used to make drywall screws, at any price. For structural assemblies that can be subjected to shear forces, you want a mild steel that can bend, not a hardened one which can break off. There are some folks who use drywall or drywall like screws because they are readily available and easy to drive with a drill. They may not realize the screws can fail catastrophically. One major issue is in the construction of scaffoldings on job sites. People have used such screws in this type of construction and been hurt seriously. The type of drive head has nothing to do with it. You can get structural grade screws in all different styles of drive heads.