Which blade to taper legs?

I wouldn't change my blade for this cut unless I had a dado or high tooth cross cut blade in the saw.
General purpose, combination blade, or rip blades should all be fine.

Dave McCann said:

Another jointer method;

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The first time I tried this I was amazed at how easy it was. You are limited to tapers twice as deep as your thickest cut.

Dave McCann said:

Not really. Just treat the taper cut as your new fresh edge and repeat the process. As many times as may be needed.
View attachment 449658

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Correct, but your centerline just changed for your second pass so you need to lay that out again or else take what it gives you. You are jointing against the grain for the second pass and tear out can become an issue.

You can also cut to full depth but only 1/3 of the way to the final taper. Then finish with a full-length pass on the bottom. This doesnt cut against the grain.

Both of these become more complicated though, so @DrRobert 's argument of "just use a table saw or a hand plane" gets pretty convincing.

Tom

JayArr said:

And here is the frame of the cabinet with tapered legs. It'll get sheathing and a hinged top next weekend. View attachment 449686

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Very nice!

We tend to argue for our own sakes most of the time. Great job ignoring our thrashing and just getting it done!

I don't think most of us keep truly junk blades in our saws, so a comment of "any blade will do" usually means "any quality blade". 20-30T FTG is fine (that's your glue line RIP btw), 40-60TATB, 50T combo, triple chip, etc.

The only blade I recommended avoiding was a hi-atb grind, which dulls fairly fast, and you need it sharp for amazing cross cuts.

Clean up any cut per above