[Chapstick]

I need to make a bunch of tongue and groove out of 1/2"x3" stock that I have. I have ran 5/4" tongue and groove with the moulding head and it worked great so i want to do the same thing again. Problem is i can't locate knives for the thinner lumber. I would need the tongue and groove to be no bigger than 1/8". It's the moulding head that fits into a table saw. I checked corob and all they have is the 1/4" sets. Is there a company that will make custom knife for it ?

 

[woodnthings]

how many feet in a "bunch"?

You could use an 1/8" slot cutter in the router table for the groove like I did here:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f7/router-table-project-23855/

The tongues can be done on the table saw with a dado set OR router table with a straight bit.

A glue joint bit can be used for 1/2" stock:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Super-Duty-Drawer-Lock-Bit-1-2-Shank/C1330Z


You might find your cutter here:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...tters&_nkw=molding+cutters&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Woodmaster is known for their excellent service with custom made knives:
http://www.woodmastermoldingknives.com/custom.cfm

also:
http://moldingknivesdepot.com/

 

[Chapstick]

Thanks for the reply. I have to make about 1500 linear feet so speed is of the essence. Running the boards so the 3" is riding the fence would be best for me because I wouldn't have to flip the board to make the other side of the tongue. (If you understand that :blink. I have a stacked dado set so the grooves would be easy to make but the tongues, without a knife set I'm stumped.

 

[cabinetman]

Thanks for the reply. I have to make about 1500 linear feet so speed is of the essence. Running the boards so the 3" is riding the fence would be best for me because I wouldn't have to flip the board to make the other side of the tongue. (If you understand that :blink. I have a stacked dado set so the grooves would be easy to make but the tongues, without a knife set I'm stumped.

If you have a stack dado set, using a spacer (for the tongue) would work. Using a blade stabilizer might just make it work. Use one that is ⅛" thick.

.

 

[woodnthings]

using a spacer and stacked dado

If you add up the dimensions with an 1/8" spacer that leaves 3/16" on either side, and very little to ride on in the center, only the 1/8" tongue. There would need to be a speciific throat plate with the 2 slots for the blade leaving a narrow 1/8" rail to ride on, not strong enough for me, too risky.

I would feel much better using a dado set and having the work flat on the table, OR a router rabbeting bit also flat on the table. Yah, I know 2 passes, 2X the work, but safety is more important to me.
I like the glue joint bit for the router table personally.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Supe...2-Shank/C1330Z

 

[J R in MO]

Good people to deal with here. I have use them to make custom knives this past summer.
moldingknivesdirect.com They are located in Belton, Missouri

 

[cabinetman]

If you add up the dimensions with an 1/8" spacer that leaves 3/16" on either side, and very little to ride on in the center, only the 1/8" tongue. There would need to be a speciific throat plate with the 2 slots for the blade leaving a narrow 1/8" rail to ride on, not strong enough for me, too risky.

I use a bench hook (without a stop after the blade) for machining like this. It provides almost a gap free area to the exposed blade. The tongue is plenty stout enough. If you don't feel safe doing it this way, don't do it.

.

 

[Old Skhool]

I use a bench hook (without a stop after the blade) for machining like this. It provides almost a gap free area to the exposed blade. The tongue is plenty stout enough. If you don't feel safe doing it this way, don't do it.

.

I've got a picture in my mind of what you're doing and your set up, but the the term bench hook is throwing me. (Makes me think of the traditional type bench hook) Please elaborate the procedure for clarity. Thanks

Sounds like the op could also just use a spline as I haven't figured out what he's trying to do. Flooring?

 

[cabinetman]

I've got a picture in my mind of what you're doing and your set up, but the the term bench hook is throwing me. (Makes me think of the traditional type bench hook) Please elaborate the procedure for clarity. Thanks

Sounds like the op could also just use a spline as I haven't figured out what he's trying to do. Flooring?

It's relatively simple. Picture a substrate...could be anything with a cleat fixed along one edge. It's flipped over so the cleat catches on the table saw table. The substrate could be any length. When placed on the saw table, the fence is set, and the substrate is laid on the table. The blade/cutter is running and raised up and through the substrate for the height needed. There is little to no space for and aft of the blade in the substrate. Makes like a ZCI.

I use these all the time to lay on the saw table to cut laminate. it keeps the laminate from sliding under the fence. Actually, an ⅛" spline would be easy...slips in a saw kerf.

.

 

[FrankC]

There are router bit sets for thin material;

http://www.rockler.com/freud-adjustable-tongue-groove-bit-set?sid=AF078

http://www.infinitytools.com/Tongue-Groove-Router-Bits-For-Thin-Stock/products/1727/

 

[cabinetman]

There are router bit sets for thin material;

http://www.rockler.com/freud-adjustable-tongue-groove-bit-set?sid=AF078

http://www.infinitytools.com/Tongue-Groove-Router-Bits-For-Thin-Stock/products/1727/

Those links didn't seem to offer an ⅛" tongue or groove.

.