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Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered my new Grizzly 5 hp table saw. The first thing my wife wants me to build is furniture fo rthe guest bedroom. I will probable use cabinet grade plywood since it is my first try at this. My question is, are there any special tools I will need to put this together? Can the table saw, biscuit jointer, portable drill and a sander get me through this project? Thanks for any suggestions!!:thumbsup:
 

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Get yourself a kreg pocket hole screw kit and a couple thosand fine thread and coarse thread screws (check mcfeeley.com fo rthe best screw prices). You won't believe how much time you can save by using these critters. The screws function as clamps and allow you to continue working rather than waiting for clamped up assemblies to dry. Hope you also ordered a dust collector to connect to your saw. I must say, if you are new to woodworking, you sure started out in high fashion. Did you get the 10",12" or 14" saw?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. I got the 10 inch model with the router table. The dust collector is on the things to buy in the future list. i would like to buy a jointer, planar, band saw and a drill press. Not necessarily in that order. For this project, can I use a multi-purpose blade for the saw or will I need 3 or 4 different blades. What brand of blades would you guys recommend? Thanks.
 

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Three blades are required. A glue line rip, a fine tooth crosscut and of course a stacked blade dado. I would strongly recommend a set with 5 tooth chippers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Can I use a combination blade like this or this one? Are there any other brands I should consider like Forrest? Also, when using the dado blade do I need a sacrificial fence? Can I build my own? Thanks for the help!:thumbsup: Would it be better for some of the joints to use biscuits or pocket screws? I am planing to use box joints for the drawers. Do I need a special blade or can they be made with a regular blade and a homemade jig?
 

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I never use the thin kerf blades on my TS. Your first selection looks pretty good. It is an ATB (alternate top bevel). You do not need a sacrificial fence when using the dado. The only time a sacrificial fence is required is when the blade, any blade, is in close proximity to the fence. Box joints can easily be made with a dado set but a fixture wiil be required. One of the best ways I have found to make drawer boxes is with a router and drawer lock bit. I prefer the #22637 from rockler.com. I use ½" thick baltic birch plywood for the box and then attach the drawer front from the inside with screws.
 

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You never said what your first piece would be. Would be a good idea to focus your thought on one of the simpler pieces first and expand your efforts from there. I would suggest the tall chest of drawers as a good place to start. 2 sides, 5 dust frames, a top, a face frame, 6 drawer boxes and 6 drawer faces. Sounds pretty simple when you say it like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was thinking of starting with the bed frame since it looks easier. The next thing would be the cabinet like you said. I bought a 8in stacked dado blade from Freud I found in Home Depot and just ordered a LU84R from Rockler. I will definetly tackle some simpler projects like building jigs for the saw before I start pouring money into expensive woods. Thanks
 

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If your bed is just a frame? That may be ok to tackle first. Will it have a headboard? How about a footboard. Will it be a platform frame with drawers underneath? Maybe just a platform to support the bed set with no frills. In very short order, a bed can become quite the engineering challenge.
Sketch it out, draw it to scale, build your material list and go to work. Best of luck
 

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I forgot to mention that I am currently building two beds myself. 1 is a queen size and the other is king size. They are both platform beds with 6 drawers under each. The top of the mattress is planned at 32" off the floor and the raised panel headboards are 6' tall with an elyptical crest rail and matching raised panel. Pictures will be posted on my website as soon as they are finished. www.crookedlittletree.com

edp
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thankfully my wife is into this zen style minimalist stuff so the furniture for the guest room won't be too ornate. It will mostly be straight lines. The bed frame will be close to the floor and as far as I know won't have a headboard. I would appreciate a couple of ideas on how to make the frame very sturdy. It will be either a queen or full bed. How are you making the joints for the frame? Thanks:thumbsup:

By the way, I like your website:yes:
 

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Bed Frame

The frame can be assembled by various types of hardware. I am using ¼-20 machine threaded steel inserts that will accept screws through the mating board with very large heads. This allows the frame to be disassembled or assembled easily while remaining very rigid in use. Check out the options available at rockler.com or other hardware suppliers.
 

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Cabinetmaker
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Flyboy; All the above answers are fine however a specific project will allow a more precise answer:icon_smile: Freud blades to me are the best for the buck. Amana are great,Forrest r supposed to be greatest. I use Freud in my shop. Kreg jig for Pocket screws da best.
Next: Your screen name very interesting; Are you a "driver" or just like the name? :}:}:}:}:}:}:thumbsup::smile:. Be glad to help with whatever I can for ya.
SEL COMM INST.
JackM
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i am a DRIVER. i fly inside the bird not with the bird inside. as far as the projects, eventually looking to build cabinets and furniture, maybe someday sell them. thanks for your help. sorry i couldn't put faces on it, i am on the road and are writing this from a pda. i can tell you i am laughing my ... off.
 

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Cabinetmaker
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Fly: as a proper FO here are your Jepps Smiley's:thumbsup::icon_smile::yes::laughing::smile:.
It didnt show on my screen name but I have a one man cabinetshop :smile: so ask away I may not have the answer but then we both can learn. I am located in North Jersey, 45 mins NE from MMU. My "home base" is 12N. 25 mins North of my home.
Be safe. If you are close to this area fantastic once in lifetime oppurtunity at TEB this month, Glacier Gal and escorts toward end of month RON, then on to Europe. Returns to ron at OSH.
JackM
 

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Why is my brand new 50T 10" table saw blade burning the wood both when crosscutting and when ripping?
You may want to start your own thread instead of derailing this one.
What kind of blade?A 50t blade is not made for ripping.For crosscutting it should not burn if it is sharp,of decent quality and everything is square.
 

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Why is my brand new 50T 10" table saw blade burning the wood both when crosscutting and when ripping?
A 50 tooth blade is pretty fine blade for cutting solid stock. Still just because it was a new blade doesn't mean it was sharp. More than likely it was a combination of the two. For cutting solid stock a 28 tooth blade would cut easier especially ripping.
 

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Sawdust Creator
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A 50 tooth isn't all that great for anything. You want a 24-30 tooth ripping blade for ripping, and a 60-80 tooth blade for crosscutting.

What kind of wood were you trying to cut?
 
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