I gotta ask "Why use a cheap dado set with such an expensive saw?" Just curious.

 

I would like to get a good blade but I don't really want to spend the $150+ on a dado set.

 

You may already know this but wood working isn't cheap. Good tools help you to do a good job easier and sometimes better. A cheap set of blades will cut your box joints but they may splinter the wood or vibrate to much and the box joint may not look as good as you would like.

In my younger days when cars had no power steering and no AC and you got dressed up to go some where you were hot and sweaty and didn't look as good as you do going somewhere in your late model ride.

Don

PS- No I don't have all the best tool either but I am trying.

 

might be cheaper, but this is very very popular

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8...Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430436525&sr=8-1&keywords=dado+blade

 

Theres nothing saying good tools have to be expensive. Ive heard good things about the dado stacks from Freud, Irwin's Marples line and the newer craftsman models, and I don't believe any of those run over $100. The craftsman in particular I'd imagine you could get in the $80 range

 

Here's your other option, a purpose made box joint set. For the record I have the freud dado set and would buy another tomorrow.

 

I had been looking at the Freud sd208 set but wasn't sure how well it would work on my sawstop because it has the dept limiting shoulder.

 

That's an interesting issue actually. On one hand, sawstop says don't use blades with the antikickback nubs because they interfere with how the blade bites into the aluminum block, but on the other hand most blades on the market have those nubs on them, and it seems weird that the saw stop cartridge wouldnt work with 90% of blades that have an extra safety feature.

Personally I'd go with whatever stack, regardless of if it has those nubbins, and just make sure I didnt feed my hand into it

 

I bought and used a wobble blade 1 time then bought the Freud set. I've been using the same Freud safety dado set since the early 90s, (shortly after the safety blades came out). I've had them sharpened twice, the $116.00 tag is still on the box.

$150.00 for a good set that's going to last you a lifetime is worth every penny, keep them clean, check for metal on new and recycled lumber before each, the set still has all the original carbide.

 

I have been using the Oldham 6005818 dado blade set since 2009. It is a 6" set. I got the set at a Rockler in-store blowout sale for $40. The sticker price was $140. It looks like Porter-Cable has their name on it http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-6005818-Carbide-General-Purpose/dp/B000RFRO8E and it sells for $135. It is a very good set. In 2014, I found a Delta 35-7670 dado set at another Rockler in-store blow out sale for $50. It is an 8" set.

I have been using the Delta set for a couple of months now and it is definitely a nicer set than the Oldham. They are both good sets, but I find the 8" works better on my Grizzly G1023RLWX (5 HP), than the Craftsman TS with only 1-1/2 HP.

 

Unless you find a great sale or clearance price, spending much under $75 is typically a waste IMO....you'll get junk unless you're lucky.

The worthwhile sets tend to start @ ~ $85. The best bang for the buck that I know of is the Delta/DeWalt 7670 set....Craftsman offers a version of the same set for $100. Freud, Irwin Marples, CMT, and Oshlun sets are all worthy at near $100 too, but IME the 7670 sets cuts better....it also has a great carrying case.

 

I bought Oshlun 8" set

I am very happy with this Oshlun 8" dado set:
http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SDS-08...-Stack/dp/B0012YF25Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1430487738&sr=8-4&keywords=dado+set

Don't worry about the safety brake on a dado set since almost always the blades are within the stock except when you first start the cut. If you can't keep your hands far enough away at that point, "probably" you shouldn't be woodworking. It does require a certain amount of safety awareness and common sense. JMO.

The dado set will require a different safety brake since it is wider than a single blade, another added expense.

 

Be aware that many dado sets do not cut flat bottoms and are not really suitable for box joints, something else to take into consideration. If you have a router in a table and cost is an issue just buy a router bit and go that route.

 

I think I narrowed it down between either the Freud sd208 or the Dewalt/delta dw7670
Thank for all the suggestions.

 

I've owned both, and both are good sets. In my experience, the 7670 leaves a cleaner cut, has better shim stock and a better case. The Freud has more carbide, but most hobbyists don't resharpen the dado sets too often. The 7670 might also be a better match for your SawStop.

 

I just bought the Delta 35-7670 off Ebay. Thanks for all the suggestions!!

 

Was it a good price?

I find the metal shims very helpful. They are much better to use than paper ones. I made sure to clean and wax them with Johnson Paste Wax, so they don't rust.

 

I think that's a good choice. I have the 7670 and like it a lot. Set up can be tedious but it cuts a very clean dado. You should measure your "standard" dado widths because my 3/8" was slightly narrow (.01" if I recall correctly) so I had to shim to get to precisely 3/8". Of course you could also tweak the key width to match the dado. You will want precision on that because even after just a couple of pins the errors added up to a way too tight fit.

That said, I use my router table for box joints. My bits are spot on 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" Setup time is a lot faster though the table saw, once set up, is fairly quick. I think the router table, all things considered, is still a bit quicker. I have great dust collection on my router table so it's also cleaner than the TS.

 

Well I used the blade for a bit today and I really like it.

 

That's great! I have been very happy with mine.