[KaisoArt]

I have done general wood working for much of my life, but not in the last 10 years. I would like to do some again so I designed this TV console to suit my TV requirements and accommodate my existing speakers. I would like to do it in light wood like Birch or Beech. I have a few questions, and am open to suggestions.

Lumber would be solid wood for the outer box but veneered ply for the internal framing.


1. I assume I will need to edge join boards. 1x6 (Biscuits or dowels?)
2. Would dovetail joints be appropriate for the bottom/sides/top joints?
3. The frame of the cabinet doors with the glass is 1.5" wide. It seems all euro hidden-hinges require a drilling of 1-3/8" Dia. That does not seem viable. Any suggestions or links to a hidden hinge that might work for the purpose?

 

[yomanbill]

Case joints could be dovetail, box, or miter with spline. Most other joints should be stopped dadoes. I can't recommend any other hidden hinges, but I would probably use ordinary good quality butt hinges. Only the barrels will be seen with the doors closed.

 

[DrRobert]

Sure, lots of carcases are made with DT joinery. Finger joints would also look good.

1.5 is kinda thin, why not just make them 2"?

 

[Rebelwork]

I have done general wood working for much of my life, but not in the last 10 years. I would like to do some again so I designed this TV console to suit my TV requirements and accommodate my existing speakers. I would like to do it in light wood like Birch or Beech. I have a few questions, and am open to suggestions.

Lumber would be solid wood for the outer box but veneered ply for the internal framing.


1. I assume I will need to edge join boards. 1x6 (Biscuits or dowels?)
2. Would dovetail joints be appropriate for the bottom/sides/top joints?
3. The frame of the cabinet doors with the glass is 1.5" wide. It seems all euro hidden-hinges require a drilling of 1-3/8" Dia. That does not seem viable. Any suggestions or links to a hidden hinge that might work for the purpose?
View attachment 445274

How do you plan to do the dovetail?

 

[Steve Neul]

I have done general wood working for much of my life, but not in the last 10 years. I would like to do some again so I designed this TV console to suit my TV requirements and accommodate my existing speakers. I would like to do it in light wood like Birch or Beech. I have a few questions, and am open to suggestions.

Lumber would be solid wood for the outer box but veneered ply for the internal framing.


1. I assume I will need to edge join boards. 1x6 (Biscuits or dowels?)
2. Would dovetail joints be appropriate for the bottom/sides/top joints?
3. The frame of the cabinet doors with the glass is 1.5" wide. It seems all euro hidden-hinges require a drilling of 1-3/8" Dia. That does not seem viable. Any suggestions or links to a hidden hinge that might work for the purpose?
View attachment 445274

Unless you just want to see the dovetails there is no structural reason to use a dovetail joint. I would make a stronger joint to use a spline miter. You would get more strength with dowels if they were long enough. The biscuits are so little and fit sloppy in the cut they would only add minimal strength. To hinge the door you might use SOSS hinges however unless they have changed them in recent years you would need some kind of catch to hold the door closed.

 

[KaisoArt]

Unless you just want to see the dovetails there is no structural reason to use a dovetail joint. I would make a stronger joint to use a spline miter. You would get more strength with dowels if they were long enough. The biscuits are so little and fit sloppy in the cut they would only add minimal strength. To hinge the door you might use SOSS hinges however unless they have changed them in recent years you would need some kind of catch to hold the door closed.

Thanks all.

I do like the look of the dovetails. However, I've never heard the term "spline miter!" Looked it up, It also gives a great look, especially if the splines could be 1/4" or perhaps more. Also, it think splines might allow me to use veneer ply for more pieces?
I came across the SOSS hinges in a search but all references were for use in small boxes. If they are appropriate, I would have no problem using magnetic catches. Is there a jig for cutting the holes for them?

I originally had the door frames at 2", but they looked a bit rugged. Going down to 1.75 is visually correct to my eye. I'm going to back into Rhino and put in splines, maybe bring the doors up to 2" again, and see how that looks.

 

[DrRobert]

A dovetail is much stronger than a spline miter. Easy to test.
Doesn’t matter for this. Spline miter gives opportunity to use veneer and wrap grain, which goes more with the design.

 

[yomanbill]

Thanks all.

I do like the look of the dovetails. However, I've never heard the term "spline miter!" Looked it up, It also gives a great look, especially if the splines could be 1/4" or perhaps more. Also, it think splines might allow me to use veneer ply for more pieces?
I came across the SOSS hinges in a search but all references were for use in small boxes. If they are appropriate, I would have no problem using magnetic catches. Is there a jig for cutting the holes for them?

I originally had the door frames at 2", but they looked a bit rugged. Going down to 1.75 is visually correct to my eye. I'm going to back into Rhino and put in splines, maybe bring the doors up to 2" again, and see how that looks.

When I used the term "splined miter" I was referring to splines within the miter parallel with the cut that would not be seen, but provide structural integrity. Like this: Making Spline-miter Box Joints.
The internal splines also help keep the joint aligned while the glue dries.
I think you might be referring to perpendicular splines that are cut and inserted after the miter is glued. Like this:

https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1135/should-i-use-one-large-spline-or-multiple-smaller-ones-for-a-miter-joint

These are decorative and probably structural as well; particularly if many are installed.

 

[B Coll]

I have done general wood working for much of my life, but not in the last 10 years. I would like to do some again so I designed this TV console to suit my TV requirements and accommodate my existing speakers. I would like to do it in light wood like Birch or Beech. I have a few questions, and am open to suggestions.

Lumber would be solid wood for the outer box but veneered ply for the internal framing.


1. I assume I will need to edge join boards. 1x6 (Biscuits or dowels?)
2. Would dovetail joints be appropriate for the bottom/sides/top joints?
3. The frame of the cabinet doors with the glass is 1.5" wide. It seems all euro hidden-hinges require a drilling of 1-3/8" Dia. That does not seem viable. Any suggestions or links to a hidden hinge that might work for the purpose?
View attachment 445274

Make it your own since you designed it. Dovetails would work as would a splined miter. You can even cut the splines with a dovetail bit which would look pretty slick. Make yourself a jig that sits on the corner at a 45 after assembly to do that. As for hinges, you can have the inset doors with euro hinges, just need to order full crank hinges.

 

[KaisoArt]

Make it your own since you designed it. Dovetails would work as would a splined miter. You can even cut the splines with a dovetail bit which would look pretty slick. Make yourself a jig that sits on the corner at a 45 after assembly to do that. As for hinges, you can have the inset doors with euro hinges, just need to order full crank hinges.

This sounds interesting. Do you know of a video or instruction for this? Found one. thanks for the suggestion.

I'm not sure what you mean by "full crank hinges?" All the hidden hinges I found had a minimum required forstner bit drilling of 1-3/8." Is full crank something different?
I can get accurate 3D models of most hardware (from McNaster-Carr, and some from GrabCad) to put into the Rhino model and verify things. It was how I saw the euro hinge required a wider frame that I'd given it.

 

[Steve Neul]

Thanks all.

I do like the look of the dovetails. However, I've never heard the term "spline miter!" Looked it up, It also gives a great look, especially if the splines could be 1/4" or perhaps more. Also, it think splines might allow me to use veneer ply for more pieces?
I came across the SOSS hinges in a search but all references were for use in small boxes. If they are appropriate, I would have no problem using magnetic catches. Is there a jig for cutting the holes for them?

I originally had the door frames at 2", but they looked a bit rugged. Going down to 1.75 is visually correct to my eye. I'm going to back into Rhino and put in splines, maybe bring the doors up to 2" again, and see how that looks.

They make a lot of different SOSS hinges from tiny ones for small boxes up to house doors. There is no reason you can't make the frame of the door 1 1/2" especially if you put the glass in with silicone. The glass will help hold the frame of the door square.

I don't know if there is a jig for sale to mortise the holes for the SOSS hinges. It wouldn't be very difficult to make a jig for a router using a template guide. It could just be a board with a hole about 1/8" larger than the hinge. Depending on the template guide and the size router bit you use there is usually 1/16" between the outer edge of the template guide and the cutting edge of the bit.

 

[B Coll]

This sounds interesting. Do you know of a video or instruction for this? Found one. thanks for the suggestion.

I'm not sure what you mean by "full crank hinges?" All the hidden hinges I found had a minimum required forstner bit drilling of 1-3/8." Is full crank something different?
I can get accurate 3D models of most hardware (from McNaster-Carr, and some from GrabCad) to put into the Rhino model and verify things. It was how I saw the euro hinge required a wider frame that I'd given it.

My bad, did not see your 1-1/2 stiles. Most cup hinges are 35mm with around a 4mm set back making it about 1-1/2" off the edge. Would not work unless you are open to increase the stile width.

 

[builtinbkyn2]

Looks like a nice project. There are Euro style hinges that face mount to the inside of the door and don't require pocket holes You could also use knife hinges that will be minimally visible. I used both splined miters and knife hinges on this wall hung console.

Your mid-century modern console could go without those pulls by using the knife hinges and magnetic push catches. Just lightly push the top edge of the door and it will pop open. I used them on the console as well as the knife hinges.

 

[KaisoArt]

Looks like a nice project. There are Euro style hinges that face mount to the inside of the door and don't require pocket holes You could also use knife hinges that will be minimally visible. I used both splined miters and knife hinges on this wall hung console.

View attachment 445293

Your mid-century modern console could go without those pulls by using the knife hinges and magnetic push catches. Just lightly push the top edge of the door and it will pop open. I used them on the console as well as the knife hinges.

Nice piece. Thanks for the info on the catches and Knife hinges.

 

[KaisoArt]

Any reason these could not work? Though they look like they require a big gap between the door edge and rails. The doors are small at 17" H x 11" W.

 

[KaisoArt]

Thanks for the suggestion of the splines. I'm liking the bowtie look.

Still can't decide if I'm OK making the door frames 2" (L) vs 1-1/2" (R) I may have to see it in full scale before I decide.

 

[DrRobert]

Splined DT’s would be a nice option. There are jigs or you can make your own.

I think 2” stiles look fine. Sure solves the hinge issue.

 

[RBH]

Thanks for the suggestion of the splines. I'm liking the bowtie look.
View attachment 445316

Still can't decide if I'm OK making the door frames 2" (L) vs 1-1/2" (R) I may have to see it in full scale before I decide.

View attachment 445317

I like your design. Simple yet elegant. Very classy. How much weight are you planning to put on this? Will the legs be screwed on separately? Or will it have a metal frame that is connected to all 4 legs?

How are you planning to do the dovetail?

Earlier this year I made two steamer trunks out of solid mahogany. The sides were put together using box joint for strength. No one gets to see them . I did a lot of experiment before I committed to the actual boards. The result was nice but not very easy to get all 4 corner 100% square with my limited equipment. I was considering dovetail at the time but that would have introduced more challenges and for what I was doing did not make sense. In your case it will showcase your workmanship.

 

[NVwoodworker]

Hinges: Blum makes a “mini” Euro hinge with a 26mm cup bore that will work on a 1-1/2” stile (Blum #B071T0650) but it only opens to 94 degrees. HTH

 

[KaisoArt]

Hinges: Blum makes a “mini” Euro hinge with a 26mm cup bore that will work on a 1-1/2” stile (Blum #B071T0650) but it only opens to 94 degrees. HTH

Thanks for the info.