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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Walnut Table - Please Help!!!

We want to start a new project: Live Edge Walnut Slab small dinning table.

After looking few lumber yard & mills, we are interested in this slab (refer to picture), some specs:
- Cut 01/2012, Kihl/Airdry, 6%-8% MC
- 76” X 29-22” X 2.125”
- Are planed & very flat
Could you please help us to understand if there are any difficulties we may face when work on this piece because of MC & Kihl dry process.
Thank you very much for your advice.


Tammy & Bryan


 

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I don't see any reason that you'd have any problems working with that slab as it is. Wood responds to the environment it eventually lives in so it might be to your benefit to let it acclimate in your house for a bit (as that is where you'll keep it, I presume). What are your plans for the table base? Using butterflies/bowties along that split running the length of the middle (I can't tell if that's checking or a natural split where two branches diverged) is also a good idea. Good luck.
PS there are a number of people who work with slabs and utilize natural edges on this forum. Perhaps posting in the higher traffic "project showcase" might get you a few more responses. Or at the very least, do a search of the forum on live edge/slab furniture. Lots of info to be found.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)


Hi Matt,
Thank you for your kind response.


We are thinking using Birch Baltic 13 ply wood BB, then cut with curvy X shape, join 2 Xs with a rod, could be rustic metal or wood but still debating. On the other hand, we can use solid wood to make the X legs, but it’s hard to find 6%-8% MC with 2” thick slab with area at least L30”x W20”, it’s high cost too.

We also will do at least 2 “synced” in braces on the back side of table to make sure it will not warp. We saw one of a table was built a year ago, and now it was sent back to the shop for braces, lesson learned!!!... You are very right about "Wood responds to the environment it eventually lives in", last Nov & Dec we had couple heavy storms passed through our area, the moisture was at high for months.


We need to weigh among cost, artistic and structure as well for the overall cost of table.


We will post more details as we go along :no::no:
 

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That's a nice piece of walnut you have, personally i would opt for solid wood legs unless you are planning on painting the base. Depending on the final shape and size/placement of the legs, i think you could find a much narrower piece of 8/4 to use. That curve isn't too tight. Most hardwood suppliers will have what you need. Using craigslist or a sawyer in the area would likely save you even more money. Just draw out the leg full size and measure your width and start looking for stock.
 

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I question the moisture content.
On a 2" thick piece the surface moisture may be 6-8% but it's the internal moisture you need to be concerned with. Unfortunately the only way I know to test it is a test cut.
IF it isn't below 10% internal, you could get warping,cupping, cracking later. I usually lag bolt a tube steel frame to the underside. With 2" it generally isn't necessary IF the m.c. is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
We were able to collect data points for the base, took 3 times, but still try to refine the curb of leg. The slab is trapezoid shape 29” and 25” from both ends. The taper is 22”. Scale to actual Slab.

The leg: H 29”, base 2”x 3” square, curb up to 2”x 6”, spread of legs is 22” outer & inner is 16”, cross x from floor 13”.

Doing prototype, learned:
- With the template, we can get 2” x 8” hardwood board to make legs (??)
- Connect 2 Xs with nice shape 2” x 4”
Still try to get more curve legs – need to try few more times, also to bring down cross x from 13” to 7” – not sure if it’s doable since the table width is narrow & we try to get 29” high!!

If we use solid wood, which one will be more structure sought: with the grain, against the grain or cross grain? then quarter-sawn or rift-sawn?


Thank you very much for your feedback, Matt & Da :smile::smile:

 
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