[woodnthings]

We need those photos!

Show an actual picture of the sanded veneer..

Close ups and the entire surface. Watch your lighting so there aren't hot spot reflections. You may need several lights or a "bounce" shield above and use the light that bounces off the shield.

There are 4 ways you can do this:
1. Reveneer the entire top.

2. Use "door skins" to cover the entire top.

3. Veneer only the portion that's sanded through, BUT mating and matching for color and "thickness" could be an issue. Veneers come in slightly different thicknesses, depending on their backers.

4. Do a "faux finish" on the sanded area and match the grain and color.

All of the above will require a "learning curve" for someone who hasn't done it. Not sayin' you can't do it, but in this case there is a both a time and money "crunch". Without seeing the actual piece it's difficult to say which approach, and then throw in your last of expertise, it can get confusing.
:sad2:
Check out these You Tubes:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=matching+existing+veneer+patch

 

[woodnthings]

Try this before sanding .....

Steve, that's what I was thinking as well. Another option I wondered about was sanding through the veneer to get to it. My only concern is whether or not, with the grain being horizontal, if it will match up between the panels. I am guessing maybe that's why they put vertical veneer on in the first place? You're right, if I might have to paint it anyway, I might as well see what the wood underneath is like. If I do sand it off, what grit should I start with? Also, do you think sanding it down would be a better option than trying to pull it off with heat and a scraper?

Steam heat will soften most glues and in the case of hide glue make so soft you can get the veneer off. It won't hurt to try since you may have to sand it regardless. A steam iron or a steam "buggy" sold years ago on TV would work. looks like really nice wood underneath and it it's solid wood, you can sand it down considerable withour harm.

 

[woodnthings]

Using a belt sander ..... the issues

That's good to know! I wasn't exactly sure what I was looking at. To be honest, I'm really not comfortable with the belt sander yet, though I have scrap wood to practice on and can try that if that seems to be the best option. I'm always curious about learning new tools. I'm wondering though if I could take it off with the orbital sander if I used like a 60 or 80 grit? Might take some time, just cautious about doing more damage.

Using a heavy belt sander requires considerable wrist strength even with two hands on it. Not only can't it tip front to back it can't lean to either side, quite a trick and it must always be kept is motion. I'd say it should only be used by an experience woodworker who has done fine finishing with one. This why I'm trying to get you to use a different method to remove the veneer. And a ROS with 40 grit will tear into any surface with some pretty deep scratches, then you'll be sanding out the scratches YOU just made to get rid of them....:sad2: