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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Beginner question ahead: I have a large 6'x3'5" stand up desk I'm assembling and mitred some 3/4" quarter round to border the top edge. My question is, what's the simplest way to attach these long boards around the table while keeping them flush with the table surface and tight at the corners? Glue, nail, both? I'm not sure where to start. Any help with the process is appreciated. Thank you. Dan
 

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Wood Snob
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Can you fire off some pictures? Best way to get an answer you can use?

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here's a partially assembled photo if it helps. It's a bit humiliating to post this where people make beautiful things with wood, but if it helps clarify my question, I'm all for it. My first mistake was probably to sand and stain the desktop before adding the border, but there you have it. I've gotten the quarter round to within a 1/16 of a perfect fit at each corner (as near as I can tell) but it's so unwieldy, I'm not sure how to get it on with any precision.
 

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I would use glue and nails. Countersink them and fill the holes. Best and easiest way to glue it on is to use tape as a clamp. I use masking tape most times. If you lay the tape on the top first and place the edge in place. Then wrap it under. Do this in several places and it will get tighter with each piece of tape. Keep it as flush as possible. If your hand nailing you might want to wait till it dries before nailing. If you have a gun nailer, blast away.

You will be surprised how well the tape will clamp it together. Place them about 3" apart. But to start, ends and middle.

To get the joints tight.
Cut one piece and without glue, tape it into place and cut the next piece to fit. Cut and trim to fit if you can. Tape around the corner to hold it in place against the next piece. Cut them all and "dry fit" with tape. Remove one piece and glue and place it in. Do this with all the pieces. Each piece of tape should be at least 6" on top and 6" inches on bottom. Don't scrimp. Pull it tight as you press it into place.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Al B Thayer said:
I would use glue and nails. Countersink them and fill the holes. Best and easiest way to glue it on is to use tape as a clamp. I use masking tape most times. If you lay the tape on the top first and place the edge in place. Then wrap it under. Do this in several places and it will get tighter with each piece of tape. Keep it as flush as possible. If your hand nailing you might want to wait till it dries before nailing. If you have a gun nailer, blast away. You will be surprised how well the tape will clamp it together. Place them about 3" apart. But to start, ends and middle. To get the joints tight. Cut one piece and without glue, tape it into place and cut the next piece to fit. Cut and trim to fit if you can. Tape around the corner to hold it in place against the next piece. Cut them all and "dry fit" with tape. Remove one piece and glue and place it in. Do this with all the pieces. Each piece of tape should be at least 6" on top and 6" inches on bottom. Don't scrimp. Pull it tight as you press it into place. Al Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
Perfect. Just the kind of tip I was after. Thank you!
 

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Your not done yet. It won't be long before you get more posts and ideas on how to proceed. My post was based on the pic and maybe your experience.

BTW you are running the quarter around the outside edge aren't you?

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 

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You mention that you're a beginner. I don't think that's a bad table for a beginner at all.

I haven't been doing woodworking as a hobby for very long myself but one thing I always do when I finish a project is to make a mental list of all the things I could have done better or should have done differently. Usually this is always on the list:

1) Work with more patience. This affords me time to strive for perfection, not develop bad habits, and think things through.
 

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In your effort to make the trim flush with the top after the top has been finished, you could use a board laying on the top so that overhangs the edge. This will establish the surface of the table and you can push the trim up to meet it and then fasten it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Al B Thayer said:
BTW you are running the quarter around the outside edge aren't you?
Al: yes, along the outside edge. They were just resting on the top while I took the pic.
 

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The way I do those is to leave the lengths a bit long, and do the mitered corners first. I get a good fit, and then cut the lengths. If the moulding goes the whole perimeter, I check all four corners for a good miter fit.

Then, I glue the edge, and set the two for a corner to get a good miter fit, and use a brad nail about an inch or more from the end, and pin it on. Then I feel the top edge for a flush fit (or very slightly high), and put a few more brads in. Then go to the next piece to that miter, and fit it tight, and pin it on the edge...again away from the corner. I don't pin the miters together. There is the possibility of splitting. Since there is glue on the fitted mated edges, that holds them.

After going around all the edges, and the glue gets cleaned up if there is any squeeze out, I use a scraper on the top edge to get it even with the top, and sand the profile to get it smooth.






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DT Boss said:
Thanks all. The tape trick worked for me on this round, but other good methods are in my brain now too. It's starting to come together!
Say that turned out real well.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 
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