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We just mounted a large wall hanging woodworking project. It is like a big picture. A friend asked me about how I mounted it and I replied with some info and a photo, and I thought I would share some of the lessons I have learned over the years with my friends at WoodworkingTalk. NOTE: By "wall hanging", I mean flat wall hangings like pictures and other art pieces, not cabinets or heavy shelves, okay?
I use a keyhole/slot cutter bit to cut a horizontal slot in the back of the wall hanging. I tape a template to the back of the wall hanging and use a guide bushing on the router. The template fits the bushing perfectly, confining the router to horizontal movement only with stops at each end. Here are examples of the products I use. Note that there are several brands, all identical or very similar. If you buy them at Rockler, you will pay a lot more:
https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71120-Picture-Hanging-Keyhole-Template/dp/B07CV5PSV1
https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71166-Short-Bushing-8-Inch/dp/B07D4CWSL3
3/8 inch Keyhole/Slot bit:
There are many to choose from. See the hint about plunging below. The 1/2 inch version is generally too large for most wall hangings, unless the wall hanging is very large and you use matching screws with large heads.
All of the above is well-known. The products I mentioned are made and sold to be used just as described. Here are a few hints.
Lessons that I Have Learned Along the Way:
I use a keyhole/slot cutter bit to cut a horizontal slot in the back of the wall hanging. I tape a template to the back of the wall hanging and use a guide bushing on the router. The template fits the bushing perfectly, confining the router to horizontal movement only with stops at each end. Here are examples of the products I use. Note that there are several brands, all identical or very similar. If you buy them at Rockler, you will pay a lot more:
https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71120-Picture-Hanging-Keyhole-Template/dp/B07CV5PSV1
https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71166-Short-Bushing-8-Inch/dp/B07D4CWSL3
3/8 inch Keyhole/Slot bit:
There are many to choose from. See the hint about plunging below. The 1/2 inch version is generally too large for most wall hangings, unless the wall hanging is very large and you use matching screws with large heads.
All of the above is well-known. The products I mentioned are made and sold to be used just as described. Here are a few hints.
Lessons that I Have Learned Along the Way:
- Use a Plunge Style Keyhole/Slot Router Bit - Keyhole/slot router bits come in two different flavors. One kind has sharp edges on "top" of the keyhole/slot router bit that allows it to plunge (drill the starter hole). Buy that kind.
- A few keyhole/slot router bits do not come with a plunge capability. Do NOT buy that kind. You must use a separate drill or plunge bit to make the starter hole(s) first, then switch to the keyhole/slot bit to cut the slot. That is way too much inconvenience and extra effort.
- Consider a Horizontal Slot Instead of a Vertical Keyhole- I found it very hard to locate the exact balance point for a vertical keyhole slot. All too often I got it just slightly wrong. If you cut a horizontal slot, you can move the wall hanging back and forth along the slot until you find the balance point. It is like using those zig-zag picture hangers.
- Hint: If you are feeling very ambitious, you can file tiny "detents" in the upper part of the slot to help keep the wall hanging in the same position.
- Plunge Both Ends of the Slot for Convenience- With a hole at each end of the slot, it is easier to "find" a hole and fit it over the screw or nail on the wall. If you use the right size screw or nail, the slot will capture the screw or nail head and prevent the work from popping off the wall.
- Recommended: Plunge one side, lift up and slide over, plunge the other side, and then cut the slot between them while keeping the router plunged.
- Not Recommended: I do not recommend plunging down, cutting the slot, and then cutting the second hole by "plunging up". Plunging up may or may not work with your router bit. Whether or not it works, the hole will be rougher, with more tearout.
- Sometimes the accumulating sawdust in the slot can interfere with the cut and block router movement. A second hole provides an "exit" when you are cutting the slot by allowing some of the sawdust to escape. Attaching some type of dust collection helps, too.
- Use Dowel Centers to Mark the Wall- The plunge on my keyhole bits is 3/8 inch in diameter, a perfect match for 3/8 inch dowel centers. You can use the pins on the dowel centers to mark the wall by holding the wall hanging where you want it and pressing the dowel centers into the wall.
- If you make holes at each end of the slot, remember to center the screw or nail between the two marks.
- If you make one hole, remember to offset the screw or nail from the mark the appropriate amount so that the wall hanging is "centered" as you want.
- To keep your dowel centers from falling out while you make the marks, you can use "quake hold" or silly putty or something like that inside the hole to grab the dowel center.