Joined
·
557 Posts
Since it seems a lot of folks don't know what these are (understandable) I thought I would do a couple of how to posts to show most of what it takes to make one. This post is a bit pic heavy but it helps to show what I am doing.
Here we go. First take a blank in this case 4"x4"x1" since I am making a call with a 3 1/2" playing surface and mark your center. I also mark 4 sound holes 1 1/8" from the center on these lines. The size and placement of the holes is really up to you but here is what I did here.
![]()
I drilled the center hole out to 3/4" to fit on my chuck. Then got it on the lathe with the marked side toward the headstock.
![]()
Once you do this simply turn the corners off to get things round. Then make a mark to cut the blank down to the 3/4" thickness of the finished piece and cut this portion away.
![]()
Once you do this you need to make a recess for the playing surface. Carefully working from the center to the edge make the recess to fit the playing surface. I do mark a line to help me but use the playing surface to check as I go to get a close fit.
![]()
![]()
Now you need to cut the inside down to 1/2" deep leaving a small rim at the edge and a pedestal for the sound board at the center. Do not cut the pedestal down yet that is the next step and one of the most critical.
![]()
Slowly begin to turn down the pedestal using the sound board for reference. I put mine about 1/32" below the rim where the playing surface sits. Go too deep and it goes flat get too close and it goes too high. This is very important so take your time.
![]()
Now you are ready to take the call off, go back to the drill press to drill the final sound holes. Drill from the outside to the inside so you don't have to worry about the tear out. Then reverse the call and place it back on the chuck so you can finish the sides and bottom.
![]()
I leave the sides a little thick so I can true them up and thin them down to the final thickness. I usually do this step with my skew chisel. The outside can be as simple or as fancy as you like. This one just has the edge rounded over and then sanded to 400 grit.
![]()
If you followed the steps this is how the interior of your call should look.
![]()
If you use a fancier wood even this simple shape can be beautiful as this piece of spalted buckeye shows.
![]()
In the next post I will go over finishing, assembly and tuning. Hope this helps show how much call makers go through to produce what looks like a very simply turning.
Here we go. First take a blank in this case 4"x4"x1" since I am making a call with a 3 1/2" playing surface and mark your center. I also mark 4 sound holes 1 1/8" from the center on these lines. The size and placement of the holes is really up to you but here is what I did here.
I drilled the center hole out to 3/4" to fit on my chuck. Then got it on the lathe with the marked side toward the headstock.
Once you do this simply turn the corners off to get things round. Then make a mark to cut the blank down to the 3/4" thickness of the finished piece and cut this portion away.
Once you do this you need to make a recess for the playing surface. Carefully working from the center to the edge make the recess to fit the playing surface. I do mark a line to help me but use the playing surface to check as I go to get a close fit.
Now you need to cut the inside down to 1/2" deep leaving a small rim at the edge and a pedestal for the sound board at the center. Do not cut the pedestal down yet that is the next step and one of the most critical.
Slowly begin to turn down the pedestal using the sound board for reference. I put mine about 1/32" below the rim where the playing surface sits. Go too deep and it goes flat get too close and it goes too high. This is very important so take your time.
Now you are ready to take the call off, go back to the drill press to drill the final sound holes. Drill from the outside to the inside so you don't have to worry about the tear out. Then reverse the call and place it back on the chuck so you can finish the sides and bottom.
I leave the sides a little thick so I can true them up and thin them down to the final thickness. I usually do this step with my skew chisel. The outside can be as simple or as fancy as you like. This one just has the edge rounded over and then sanded to 400 grit.
If you followed the steps this is how the interior of your call should look.
If you use a fancier wood even this simple shape can be beautiful as this piece of spalted buckeye shows.
In the next post I will go over finishing, assembly and tuning. Hope this helps show how much call makers go through to produce what looks like a very simply turning.
