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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I was finally able to get in to the shop (garage) and do a little playing around with my tools finally. Lately all of my extra time and attention has been spent trying to get our house ready to put up for sale. Since thats finished now, I was able to build an outfeed table for my table saw and also install the Splitter kit into my zero-clearance insert. The outfeed table was a nice 5/4 laminated counter that I picked up for $1 from Lowes. They were going to throw it out after after cutting down the large one they had. I installed inserts and 5/16" carriage bolts on the bottom of the legs so that I could level it and get it to exact height I wanted. Works pretty good. The splitter kit I used was the Micro Jig Thin Kerf SteelPRO MJ Splitter Kit that I picked up at Woodcraft. After the last close call my finger had with the blade due to the wood getting pinched, I went right out and bought this. I really was pretty simple to install and it seemed to work well with a few test cuts.

Mark
 

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Nice job on the out feed table, smart move on the splitter and miser cudos on the cost

All you need to do now is build a panel sled and miter sled and rout easements in the outfeed table for both.

These are on my me-do list as well.

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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jharris2 said:
All you need to do now is build a panel sled and miter sled and rout easements in the outfeed table for both.
The height of the table is just slightly lower than the miter slots; therefore, any runners coming out the end of the TS miter slots will just slide over the top of the outfeed table. That's the reason I made it this height.
 

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My out feed table is 1/8" lower that my TS top. I wanted to prevent snags but didn't want a 3/8" drop.
 

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I'm assuming that with only 1/8" of a drop you men have slots in your outfeed for the miter bar, and your outfeed tables are attached to your saws. I used a powermatic table saw at work, and the outfeed table is separate, and below the slots about 3/8". It doesn't cause any problems for me. You can always throw a scrap of 1/4" anything on it to bring the top to that 1/8" range when ripping long boards.
 

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if that's what works for you, then you should stick with it. in the end, you're the one using it. so lowes still has a "scrap" bin or "cull" cart?
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so lowes still has a "scrap" bin or "cull" cart?
Actually I was wondering through the store to kill time (I was on lunch) and I noticed 2 employees cutting the existing countertop at the blinds area. I asked what they were going to do with the scrap & was told trash. I asked if I could have it & the Dept Mgr who overheard me ask walked me up to the Store Mgr to get approval from him. SM said $1 for insurance reasons (greater liability if given to me).

Seems to be working great so far!!
 

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4DThinker said:
I'm assuming that with only 1/8" of a drop you men have slots in your outfeed for the miter bar, and your outfeed tables are attached to your saws. I used a powermatic table saw at work, and the outfeed table is separate, and below the slots about 3/8". It doesn't cause any problems for me. You can always throw a scrap of 1/4" anything on it to bring the top to that 1/8" range when ripping long boards.
I hadn't considered using a 1/4" sheet. That's a good idea if you have storage space for it. I don't.

My outfeed table is not attached to my TS.

I haven't routed miter bar easements into it yet. I'll do so once I build my panel sled and miter sled.

Please don't take my comments as criticisms.

One of the beauties of this forum is the exchange of ideas.

One can glean from these exchanges methods that will work best for them.
 
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