In all probability you're looking at multiple pieces shaped, stacked and glued to make the molding.
I would suggest a couple of things. Get a better picture. (One that can be printed about life size.)
Make some test "templates" out of very thin but stiff material. (The best material is 3 or 4 of those little Formica color samples.) Drill holes of varying sizes so that you can cut material away leaving just a 1/4 circle. These can be used to measure the parts of the molding. With the information you should be able to build the molding that your wife wants.
I do have to ask a question based upon what my wife does.
Does your wife REALLY want what she is asking you to build or is the request an impossibility to prevent you from building?
Most moldings like that are a build of separate smaller ones.
If your wife likes that look you can come close in either of 2 ways., but you will need a cross section drawing in full size OR a template made to fit all the profiles.
If you can "borrow the door you can make a plaster impression of the section OR you can make a Bondo impression also, if you cover the section with Saran wrap and let the Bondo set up. Make some modeling clay dams to keep the Bondo from flowing away.
Once you have the section and it's hardened up, saw it at 90 degrees to the moldings and you will have an accurate profile of the whole assembly. http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Making_Molds_and_Taking_Impressions.html
It will then be easy to match up store bought molding sections or find router bit to make your own, but that's a whole 'nother discussion for a different time.... If you have router table experience, great. If not, there will be learning curve.
More than likely the molding is something the cabinet shop is making themselves. It was probably either done on a shaper or a molder. You might find some molding or a router bit that looks somewhat similar but if it has to match exactly you would have to have a shop grind a custom cutting knife to make the molding and that gets really expensive. There are three wing molding cutters made to run on a table saw that you can get blank knives. If you are handy with a grinder and patient you could grind two sets to run that profile but they run pretty rough so you would have to brush the molding down pretty tight. There is also a similar cutter head that only uses one knife but it runs even rougher. It will get the job done but needs to be run really slow.
Try looking for a wainscot cap or panel molding. The way that is back cut to fit around the door sticking I really bet they are making it. Brazos Forest Products makes a molding that looks somewhat similar. It is a model 493-3650 done in maple.
The moulding looks like it may be proprietary to the maker of the doors. Likely done on a multi head moulder. You may come close looking at wainscot cap/chair rail cap moulding, or even picture frame mouldings.
The door co "probably" machines that in runs/lots of 10,000 ft. at an extremely efficient rate of speed........
Your job,if you decide to proceed is:As a shop owner,what equip and most importantly the "processes" can you come up with to make that mould as efficiently as YOU can?It is the $64k question that shop owners face each and everyday....irrespective of whether it's in a "garage" shop or Merrilat(big arse cabinet joint).
Be prepared to come up with a cpl strategies.Once you've developed,"plan A"...park that....and then come up with plan "B".Best of luck.
As much as I like the DIY, spending hours at the router table running enough for the job will certainly be tedious, but the time spent working up the design will probably be somewhat longer. I would call the manufacturer or a distributor and see if you can get some email addresses and make some inquiries, it can hurt!
I don't recall seeing any kitchen cabinets with moldings that overlay the center panel.... are you sure you want to create a situation where you have another crevice to clean when there is a spill?
It looks like a simple raised panel. Sears has router bits for most of the profiles you need for rails and stiles. The molding can most likely be had at Home Depot...( not the exact profile but close enough to make the wife happy...and if not your best bet is buy the doors from the manufacturer)
You may be able to take chair rail moulding and rabbet one edge and come up with something really similar. Ferche makes a chair rail that looks similar to that profile, only without the rabbet needed to overlap the stile and rail. Go to your local building material supplier (McCabe Lumber for instance) and see what they can get. You should be able to find something that will work for a good price (probably less than $1.50/ft).
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