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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm about to finish my entertainment center .Maple mix with black walnut
I'm now ready to start the finish . I will be spraying with HLVP
My plan was to
1 st . use Zinsser sealcoat with about 10 drops of Transtint vintage maple .
Do I let this set for couple hours , then lightly sand with 320 or not ?

2 nd . Then spray General PolyAcrylic water base top coat ( satin) over sealcaot . Apply 3 coats and lightly sand . Spray one more coat
http://www.generalfinishes.com/reta...rs/polyacrylic-waterbase-topcoat#.UgA6WW3DDqg

Is this a good process ? or would there be a better way
Thank you
 

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The 10 drops of transtint dye won't slow the drying time of the sealcoat. It will dry as normal. Be careful sanding the sealcoat with the dye in it. Having color in the shellac if you sand more in some places than others the color will vary. I would just scuff it a little and put some clear over it before you do any sanding but you still have to be careful sanding. If you start seeing colored sanding dust you better get off of it. It might be better to use clear sealcoat and get the surface smooth sanding between coats and put the transtint in the first coat of the polycrylic. You could also mix the 10 drops of transtint with alcohol and spray a even uniform coat on at low pressure and use only clear coatings over it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was trying to stop blotchy in the maple . I'm not color staining
Maybe thats what I need to due . Like you said Steve
mix the 10 drops of transtint with alcohol and spray a even uniform coat on at low pressure and use only clear coatings over it.
I do not need the sealcoat then ? correct
 

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I was trying to stop blotchy in the maple . I'm not color staining
Maybe thats what I need to due . Like you said Steve
mix the 10 drops of transtint with alcohol and spray a even uniform coat on at low pressure and use only clear coatings over it.
I do not need the sealcoat then ? correct
No you don't have to use the sealcoat. I just like to use it as a sealer to keep from raising the grain with the water based finish and the polycrylic builds faster having the wood sealed.

It's kinda difficult to get used to spraying a alcohol based dye. The dye dries so fast you can't pay attention to what it looks like when you are spraying it because it immediately lightens. You just have to trust yourself that you sprayed a uniform coat. If you start going back and adding color to some places that look light then when you put the clear over it the places you added color are too dark. You can always add some more dye between coats if there is thin spots. It's better to do that then get a spot too dark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks .
Thats the new plan .
I just want to highlight the wood . Not color it
I have some sealcoat ,Would it be good to cut it 1/2 ,then spray one light coat then clear ?
Again thanks
 

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In your experimenting try using steps in your finish. IOW, if you need a sealer/conditioner, do that step. Then if you are staining, do that step. Then do your top coating. Combining steps can get ahead of yourself. You'll likely have better luck with controlling how much of what to use.

I don't sand the stained step, or the first application or two of topcoat. Any grain raising gets taken care of with normal light sanding in between topcoat applications.






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In your experimenting try using steps in your finish. IOW, if you need a sealer/conditioner, do that step. Then if you are staining, do that step. Then do your top coating. Combining steps can get ahead of yourself. You'll likely have better luck with controlling how much of what to use.

I don't sand the stained step, or the first application or two of topcoat. Any grain raising gets taken care of with normal light sanding in between topcoat applications.










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Cabinetman, does not sanding the first one or two tops coats not cause any adhesion problems? I thought that sanding between top coats is both for adhesion and smoothness.

Gary
 
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