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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

So I'm new to this, started building some transforming tables and really have hit a brick wall. First I'll describe the tables.

4 tables consisting of a 12"square center with 4 triangular leafs, making it a 17"square when all are opened.

When the 4 are combined, a 34" square dining table is created.

Here's the difficult part I'm struggling with....

When it's NOT together as the 34" sq, I would like 2 of the tables to be 22" tall end tables with their leafs folded down making 2, 12" square end tables. The other two would have their leafs opened and connect to make a 34x17" coffee table that sat 14" tall.


My issue obviously is with the adjustable heights. How can I take a 28" table leg, split it in half, and be able to smoothly and nicely rejoin them to be 28" or use them as 2 separate 14" legs????

Similarly, how can I add and remove 6" from a 28" leg simply and elegantly?


The reason for this whole project is because I live in an apartment with no room for this table, but room for the end tables n coffee table. The transformation would allow me to have it all.

THANKS!
`Danny
 

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Turning Wood Into Art
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Interesting one. Am always into stuff like this. Some sketches of the various configurations might be useful. I have a couple of ideas but would like some more pics first. I hate converting from imperial but that is life

Dave The Turning Cowboy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Concept

So here's the thing, the primary issue to start is just the legs. Therefore I don't really have any pictures to work with.

So.... primary question-> how can I have 2, 14" legs that connect to the underside of a table top, also come together to be one complete 28" leg. Now the two connections could be completely different, I'm not sure.

Basically how do I get
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to become
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|__________|
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|x|
|x|
|x|
|x|

Thanks for the help! If I can pull this off it'll be hugely helpful to have for years to come!
`Danny
 

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This may be way off base, but if it is, other members will be sure to let us both know.:smile: What about a sliding dovetail to connect the two leg sections together with a matching socket on the underside of the table when you want to use it as a "short" table? I don't know if that joint would hold up over time (a lot would depend on species of wood used), or if it would loosen a lot over time, but it was the first thing that popped into my mind. When you use it in "short mode", you could also cut a dovetail piece out of contrasting wood to fill the socket in the leg. When using both leg pieces, the dovetail filler would be stored in the socket on the table underside.

OK, there it is, what do some of you more experienced WW think?
 

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Turning Wood Into Art
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Would 2 sets of legs work. One at each length. I have a dining table that has legs that attach with Wing nuts.

Otherwise a screw in attachment ; depends on how stable itall needs to be and what size legs you are working with

Dave The Turning Cowboy
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I could easily do that... just keep the other sets in the closet away while not in use... but that's way less fun! The other way all parts are being used at all times. If it's completely impossible, I'm willing to accept that, but I'd like to at least try
 

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dstahl21 said:
I could easily do that... just keep the other sets in the closet away while not in use... but that's way less fun! The other way all parts are being used at all times. If it's completely impossible, I'm willing to accept that, but I'd like to at least try
Well you could try 'T' nuts with a matching coach screw/bolt in the top of the legs. If not a 'T' nut an internally threaded collar which can be inserted in bottom the legs. Imperative would be a good square end to assure a good solid fit when screwed together. Are you turning the legs?

Dave The Turning Cowboy
 

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Turning them? So what I tried so far was having a t-nut on both the bottom of one and the top of another so they can come together... problem is, it's just not that seemless, and doesn't feel as sturdy as it was as a complete leg.
 

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This may be way off base, but if it is, other members will be sure to let us both know.:smile: What about a sliding dovetail to connect the two leg sections together with a matching socket on the underside of the table when you want to use it as a "short" table? I don't know if that joint would hold up over time (a lot would depend on species of wood used), or if it would loosen a lot over time, but it was the first thing that popped into my mind. When you use it in "short mode", you could also cut a dovetail piece out of contrasting wood to fill the socket in the leg. When using both leg pieces, the dovetail filler would be stored in the socket on the table underside.

OK, there it is, what do some of you more experienced WW think?
So this sounds awesome, and I'd love to do it.... but I don't have the tools to do so! Anyone in Atlanta want to help a kid out? :)

If done well this could be awesome, and no hardware!
 

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trc65 said:
This may be way off base, but if it is, other members will be sure to let us both know.:smile: What about a sliding dovetail to connect the two leg sections together with a matching socket on the underside of the table when you want to use it as a "short" table? I don't know if that joint would hold up over time (a lot would depend on species of wood used), or if it would loosen a lot over time, but it was the first thing that popped into my mind. When you use it in "short mode", you could also cut a dovetail piece out of contrasting wood to fill the socket in the leg. When using both leg pieces, the dovetail filler would be stored in the socket on the table underside.

OK, there it is, what do some of you more experienced WW think?
I like the idea. If it were a tapered sliding dovetail that would give it a nice positive lock. The question would then come down to the profile section and of course as you mentioned species of wood used.

Dave The Turning Cowboy
 

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dstahl21 said:
Turning them? So what I tried so far was having a t-nut on both the bottom of one and the top of another so they can come together... problem is, it's just not that seemless, and doesn't feel as sturdy as it was as a complete leg.
For a seemless feel I would suggest joining the legs and then turning them. While I suggested t-nut I think the are other similar but stronger screw together options

Dave The Turning Cowboy
 

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What about a knuckle joint that allows the legs to fold in half. When folded the leg should be stronger and when fully extended still be able to support the table. Biggest trick then would be locking the knuckle when the leg is extended. Definately interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I like the idea. If it were a tapered sliding dovetail that would give it a nice positive lock. The question would then come down to the profile section and of course as you mentioned species of wood used.

Dave The Turning Cowboy
The legs I have now are Ash. http://www.homedepot.com/buy/decor/furniture/waddell/parsons-table-leg-28-in-length-17134.html

How on EARTH do I do a tapered dovetail. I think that'd be amazing to do, but I'm concerned about stability. Can a bigger, taller dovetail be made to decrease the chance of it snapping?

Also- if I were to find someone in Atlanta to do this portion for me, where would I go lookin?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What about a knuckle joint that allows the legs to fold in half. When folded the leg should be stronger and when fully extended still be able to support the table. Biggest trick then would be locking the knuckle when the leg is extended. Definately interesting.
I'm glad I piqued the interest of significantly more experienced and talented people than I. I was hoping this would be easier as I started and quickly discovered that it's far from that!


Also- if anyone reading is in Atlanta, I could use some help... obviously.
 

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If you do not have the tools to do a dovetail, how about similar concept. Route a 1/4in slot in outer and inner legs and glue 1/4in plywood strip in the outer legs. This would act similar to the walls of the dovetail. All you would see in the inner leg when in extended position would be the groove.

Like the dovetail you will need a bolt to fix the assembly in place.
 

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So is this something like we're talkin about? I don't know if I can make a true dovetail, but a slide joint with a bolt sliding through could do the trick.

I attached a little drawing. I feel like I could actually do this. Route out the center chunk, and the side pieces to match on the other half, drill a hole through the whole setup, and slide a bolt through.

Thoughts?
 

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dstahl21 said:
I'm glad I piqued the interest of significantly more experienced and talented people than I. I was hoping this would be easier as I started and quickly discovered that it's far from that!

Also- if anyone reading is in Atlanta, I could use some help... obviously.
If you happen to be coming thru sunny down town Jerilderie in Australia I'd be happy to demonstrate for you. As my shop is out of commission due to the March floods I can't whip one up in the next day or so, otherwise I'd post a video for you.

Whatever you do, be sure to post a pic of whatever you come up with.

Dave The Turning Cowboy
 

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dstahl21 said:
So is this something like we're talkin about? I don't know if I can make a true dovetail, but a slide joint with a bolt sliding through could do the trick.

I attached a little drawing. I feel like I could actually do this. Route out the center chunk, and the side pieces to match on the other half, drill a hole through the whole setup, and slide a bolt through.

Thoughts?
I'm really stuck on the tapered dovetail joint now. And it would be very stable I think. It is heading for 1am tues morn here - ill go get a few hours sleep and maybe do you up a sketch no so I like the one you have already done. If you have a router you could no doubt use a dovetail bit, set up a jig and do it very easy with that. Routing end grain is generally a very easy process.

Dave The Turning Cowboy
 

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That's not good! While I would love to visit Australia, that would drastically increase the cost of these tables!

If I can pull this whole thing off (with 4 tables and 8 multi-length table legs, that act as 3 completely different useful table tops in my apartment), I'll be very grateful. Pictures will no doubt be coming.
 

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I'm really stuck on the tapered dovetail joint now. And it would be very stable I think. It is heading for 1am tues morn here - ill go get a few hours sleep and maybe do you up a sketch no so I like the one you have already done. If you have a router you could no doubt use a dovetail bit, set up a jig and do it very easy with that. Routing end grain is generally a very easy process.

Dave The Turning Cowboy
Good deal. It's almost 11am here. Thanks for the help.
 
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